Trackrod End Nut Size
Discussion
jjbradders said:
Are they off anything in particular?
Cortina ?jjbradders said:
They could be M10 fine but I measured the diameter to be 9.6mm. Could be 10mm with error?
Yep, reckon you've confused yourself by measuring too accurately!Put away all that fancy digital stuff and get one of these....
Sounds more like 3/8" UNF to me. Just get M10 fine though it'll be fine, they're not really that important 
This is a joke before anyone says anything.
If you can't be confident of measuring something should you actually be doing anything on your car?
This is a joke before anyone says anything.
If you can't be confident of measuring something should you actually be doing anything on your car?
Edited by ray von on Sunday 2nd July 08:29
If you can't be confident of measuring something should you actually be doing anything on your car?
[/quote]
IMHO, Unfortunately this statement includes most of the DIY Home car mechanics,and not just in the TVR world. I fully appreciate there are alot of self taught Automotive-Mechanical engineers on this site who are very knowledgeable, and are doing some amazing work on their cars.
I myself have served an apprenticeship in mechanical engineering and I have an HND in manufacturing engineering, but I deem myself as "NOT COMPETENT" to work on the main fundamentals on a car, and if I do any work myself, I will always get a second opinion and get my worked checked over by a trained competent person.
Edited by ray von on Sunday 2nd July 08:29
[/quote]
IMHO, Unfortunately this statement includes most of the DIY Home car mechanics,and not just in the TVR world. I fully appreciate there are alot of self taught Automotive-Mechanical engineers on this site who are very knowledgeable, and are doing some amazing work on their cars.
I myself have served an apprenticeship in mechanical engineering and I have an HND in manufacturing engineering, but I deem myself as "NOT COMPETENT" to work on the main fundamentals on a car, and if I do any work myself, I will always get a second opinion and get my worked checked over by a trained competent person.
Edited by portzi on Sunday 2nd July 08:58
"Mans gotta know his limitations"
Do you really need to be a tool maker to be a mechanic though?
Checking on nut sizes is a reasonable enough ask if your not an engineer surely without getting suggestion your out your league.
I know so called engineers who are modern trained, your right they are s
t mechanics and in my opinion have soft hands, says everything about modern engineers, most wear suits ffs!
This is a poxy track rod end here not block boring or chassis straightening!
I entirely get both your and Ronvays point but in essence totally out of context as the o/p doesn't sound incompetent to me!
There's a car forsake on Facebook, just come on yesterday with chassis pics, paint over cable ties and slapped on with brush paint marks over steering rack etc, a total mess.
I agree with your point and when justified good advice to the ignorant or stupid.
The fact the op came on hear to ask a very reasonable question suggests he's got his marbles in place......
other than corner weighting I could use string to geo your car and you'd not fking tell, we're all good at different things regardless of formal training or not. The best mechanic at a national race series is a st house built Welshman who has never been to college but worked on cars all his young life, he changes engines in minutes not hours, understands and fault finds faster than any other all time served mechanics on the scene and his car wins all the time. Then prepares Mustangs and super cars of all descriptions as a day job. He can't barely write but he's more intelligent than any fker and unferstsnds everything, welds, strips engines, sorts chassis and suspension, re wires the cars,,,, it's all in your ability as much as your training. He's been taught well by another race mechanic who builds one off cars for fun, he was a Baker when he left school!
Never underestimate the knowledge hiding away in sheds,,, we are born mechanics in this country, its in the blood and training is what is absolutely needed but sadly this country stopped training people in the late 70's so most have to train themselves, hook or crook!
And I know enough time served mechanics who are st at their job, it's not the training it's how you then go on and use it that really matters. The times I've took my Tvr to the odd garage etc for a quote maybe, and the look of fear in the mechanics face just gobsmacks me,,,
There's not many people I'd trust working on my car and that includes lazy mechanics working for main dealers, I now have a block with a sheared thread for bolting exhaust to block. Wrong bolt used by main dealer mechanic because it was stupidly tight when it was removed to replace Dif, so tight it took a bloke of 6.3 of considerable good health ( thanks Peter) to gingerly remove that bolt with all his mechanical sympathy so it didn't heat up and shear off!
I know it wasn't me because the bolt was missing when it went into main dealers place long before we removed exhaust!
Rant over!!!!!!!
Do you really need to be a tool maker to be a mechanic though?
Checking on nut sizes is a reasonable enough ask if your not an engineer surely without getting suggestion your out your league.
I know so called engineers who are modern trained, your right they are s
t mechanics and in my opinion have soft hands, says everything about modern engineers, most wear suits ffs! This is a poxy track rod end here not block boring or chassis straightening!
I entirely get both your and Ronvays point but in essence totally out of context as the o/p doesn't sound incompetent to me!
There's a car forsake on Facebook, just come on yesterday with chassis pics, paint over cable ties and slapped on with brush paint marks over steering rack etc, a total mess.
I agree with your point and when justified good advice to the ignorant or stupid.
The fact the op came on hear to ask a very reasonable question suggests he's got his marbles in place......
other than corner weighting I could use string to geo your car and you'd not f
king tell, we're all good at different things regardless of formal training or not. The best mechanic at a national race series is a st house built Welshman who has never been to college but worked on cars all his young life, he changes engines in minutes not hours, understands and fault finds faster than any other all time served mechanics on the scene and his car wins all the time. Then prepares Mustangs and super cars of all descriptions as a day job. He can't barely write but he's more intelligent than any fker and unferstsnds everything, welds, strips engines, sorts chassis and suspension, re wires the cars,,,, it's all in your ability as much as your training. He's been taught well by another race mechanic who builds one off cars for fun, he was a Baker when he left school! Never underestimate the knowledge hiding away in sheds,,, we are born mechanics in this country, its in the blood and training is what is absolutely needed but sadly this country stopped training people in the late 70's so most have to train themselves, hook or crook!
And I know enough time served mechanics who are s
t at their job, it's not the training it's how you then go on and use it that really matters. The times I've took my Tvr to the odd garage etc for a quote maybe, and the look of fear in the mechanics face just gobsmacks me,,, There's not many people I'd trust working on my car and that includes lazy mechanics working for main dealers, I now have a block with a sheared thread for bolting exhaust to block. Wrong bolt used by main dealer mechanic because it was stupidly tight when it was removed to replace Dif, so tight it took a bloke of 6.3 of considerable good health ( thanks Peter) to gingerly remove that bolt with all his mechanical sympathy so it didn't heat up and shear off!
I know it wasn't me because the bolt was missing when it went into main dealers place long before we removed exhaust!
Rant over!!!!!!!
Classic Chim said:
Facebook,
You ok hun xxClassic Chim said:
I entirely get both your and Ronvays point but in essence totally out of context as the o/p doesn't sound incompetent to me!
Apart from he seems unable to recognise that if something measures 9.6mm it doesn't make it M10 I would say all your post is out of context with what has been 'suggested' but it was a canny rant about nothing 6/10
Classic Chim said:
"Mans gotta know his limitations"
Do you really need to be a tool maker to be a mechanic though?
Checking on nut sizes is a reasonable enough ask if your not an engineer surely without getting suggestion your out your league.
I know so called engineers who are modern trained, your right they are st mechanics and in my opinion have soft hands, says everything about modern engineers, most wear suits ffs!
This is a poxy track rod end here not block boring or chassis straightening!
I entirely get both your and Ronvays point but in essence totally out of context as the o/p doesn't sound incompetent to me!
There's a car forsake on Facebook, just come on yesterday with chassis pics, paint over cable ties and slapped on with brush paint marks over steering rack etc, a total mess.
I agree with your point and when justified good advice to the ignorant or stupid.
The fact the op came on hear to ask a very reasonable question suggests he's got his marbles in place......
other than corner weighting I could use string to geo your car and you'd not fking tell, we're all good at different things regardless of formal training or not. The best mechanic at a national race series is a st house built Welshman who has never been to college but worked on cars all his young life, he changes engines in minutes not hours, understands and fault finds faster than any other all time served mechanics on the scene and his car wins all the time. Then prepares Mustangs and super cars of all descriptions as a day job. He can't barely write but he's more intelligent than any fker and unferstsnds everything, welds, strips engines, sorts chassis and suspension, re wires the cars,,,, it's all in your ability as much as your training. He's been taught well by another race mechanic who builds one off cars for fun, he was a Baker when he left school!
Never underestimate the knowledge hiding away in sheds,,, we are born mechanics in this country, its in the blood and training is what is absolutely needed but sadly this country stopped training people in the late 70's so most have to train themselves, hook or crook!
And I know enough time served mechanics who are st at their job, it's not the training it's how you then go on and use it that really matters. The times I've took my Tvr to the odd garage etc for a quote maybe, and the look of fear in the mechanics face just gobsmacks me,,,
There's not many people I'd trust working on my car and that includes lazy mechanics working for main dealers, I now have a block with a sheared thread for bolting exhaust to block. Wrong bolt used by main dealer mechanic because it was stupidly tight when it was removed to replace Dif, so tight it took a bloke of 6.3 of considerable good health ( thanks Peter) to gingerly remove that bolt with all his mechanical sympathy so it didn't heat up and shear off!
I know it wasn't me because the bolt was missing when it went into main dealers place long before we removed exhaust!
Rant over!!!!!!!
In reply to your Rant Do you really need to be a tool maker to be a mechanic though?
Checking on nut sizes is a reasonable enough ask if your not an engineer surely without getting suggestion your out your league.
I know so called engineers who are modern trained, your right they are s
t mechanics and in my opinion have soft hands, says everything about modern engineers, most wear suits ffs! This is a poxy track rod end here not block boring or chassis straightening!
I entirely get both your and Ronvays point but in essence totally out of context as the o/p doesn't sound incompetent to me!
There's a car forsake on Facebook, just come on yesterday with chassis pics, paint over cable ties and slapped on with brush paint marks over steering rack etc, a total mess.
I agree with your point and when justified good advice to the ignorant or stupid.
The fact the op came on hear to ask a very reasonable question suggests he's got his marbles in place......
other than corner weighting I could use string to geo your car and you'd not f
king tell, we're all good at different things regardless of formal training or not. The best mechanic at a national race series is a st house built Welshman who has never been to college but worked on cars all his young life, he changes engines in minutes not hours, understands and fault finds faster than any other all time served mechanics on the scene and his car wins all the time. Then prepares Mustangs and super cars of all descriptions as a day job. He can't barely write but he's more intelligent than any fker and unferstsnds everything, welds, strips engines, sorts chassis and suspension, re wires the cars,,,, it's all in your ability as much as your training. He's been taught well by another race mechanic who builds one off cars for fun, he was a Baker when he left school! Never underestimate the knowledge hiding away in sheds,,, we are born mechanics in this country, its in the blood and training is what is absolutely needed but sadly this country stopped training people in the late 70's so most have to train themselves, hook or crook!
And I know enough time served mechanics who are s
t at their job, it's not the training it's how you then go on and use it that really matters. The times I've took my Tvr to the odd garage etc for a quote maybe, and the look of fear in the mechanics face just gobsmacks me,,, There's not many people I'd trust working on my car and that includes lazy mechanics working for main dealers, I now have a block with a sheared thread for bolting exhaust to block. Wrong bolt used by main dealer mechanic because it was stupidly tight when it was removed to replace Dif, so tight it took a bloke of 6.3 of considerable good health ( thanks Peter) to gingerly remove that bolt with all his mechanical sympathy so it didn't heat up and shear off!
I know it wasn't me because the bolt was missing when it went into main dealers place long before we removed exhaust!
Rant over!!!!!!!
As you are well aware Toolmaker
is a completely different trade to Automotive Engineer so where has toolmaker come from? 
Thread identification is basic day one engineering knowledge, that is taught to an 1960's engineer right through to today, to modern 16 year old apprentices, no matter if your Mechanical, electrical or an instrument mechanic, so no qualification required.
I totally agree that both on cars and Aircraft its a bolt on bolt off world, rather than a repair and refit, that is just how it is in both the car and Aerospace industries these days.
Poxy track rod end
; That is a very slap dash attitude to what I percive as an important part of the cars steering, if the wrong nut was fitted and worked itself loose over time, a serious accident could be encountered, and that goes for any nut or bolt and on a cars steering,
I saw the same car I believe on facebook, was it a cerbera chassis by any chance? with the owner asking about Diff bolts to be removed? The paint did look like it was liberally spread everywhere without prep and masking off, IMHO of course.
As for best mechanics in all industries, I know of them also in the Aircraft industry, who have never done a day in college
, but know more about the Mk103 Turbo Fan RR engine than an RAF Sooty would ever know. But all these people are exceptions to the rule, and are very gifted individuals and to know them is a privilege in any field of engineering.There is not many main dealers I would trust either, seeing a competent mechanic redoing a so called specialists work time after time, and people trusting the main dealers to get it right, when the main dealer is contracting the work out to a cheaper company, but then charging the customer full dealer prices, its a rip off and makes my blood boil.
Edited by portzi on Sunday 2nd July 12:19
jjbradders said:
Wow, only wanted a nut size guys
For the record, it's just because I'm half-way through a complete restoration of the car that I'm doing this. I'm well aware that 9.6 is not 10 (I think) but being a TVR, wouldn't surprise me if it's metric and worn.
The threaded rod will be less than 10mm in diameter to fit a m10 nut. For the record, it's just because I'm half-way through a complete restoration of the car that I'm doing this. I'm well aware that 9.6 is not 10 (I think) but being a TVR, wouldn't surprise me if it's metric and worn.
.4mm is excessive but how much is wear or corrosion. A m10 fine is a 1.25 pitch so for every 360 degree turn the nut moves 1.25mm on the threaded rod. I assume you have a nut on the other track rod end? If so simply wind it back 10 turns. The distance moved should be 12.5mm if a 1.25 pitch. Hope that helps
Edited by RobXjcoupe on Sunday 2nd July 22:34
RobXjcoupe said:
jjbradders said:
Wow, only wanted a nut size guys
For the record, it's just because I'm half-way through a complete restoration of the car that I'm doing this. I'm well aware that 9.6 is not 10 (I think) but being a TVR, wouldn't surprise me if it's metric and worn.
The threaded rod will be less than 10mm in diameter to fit a m10 nut. For the record, it's just because I'm half-way through a complete restoration of the car that I'm doing this. I'm well aware that 9.6 is not 10 (I think) but being a TVR, wouldn't surprise me if it's metric and worn.
.4mm is excessive but how much is wear or corrosion. A m10 fine is a 1.25 pitch so for every 360 degree turn the nut moves 1.25mm on the threaded rod. I assume you have a nut on the other track rod end? If so simply wind it back 10 turns. The distance moved should be 12.5mm if a 1.25 pitch. Hope that helps
Edited by RobXjcoupe on Sunday 2nd July 22:34
I've ordered a mix of everything and I'll see what fits best.
jjbradders said:
RobXjcoupe said:
jjbradders said:
Wow, only wanted a nut size guys
For the record, it's just because I'm half-way through a complete restoration of the car that I'm doing this. I'm well aware that 9.6 is not 10 (I think) but being a TVR, wouldn't surprise me if it's metric and worn.
The threaded rod will be less than 10mm in diameter to fit a m10 nut. For the record, it's just because I'm half-way through a complete restoration of the car that I'm doing this. I'm well aware that 9.6 is not 10 (I think) but being a TVR, wouldn't surprise me if it's metric and worn.
.4mm is excessive but how much is wear or corrosion. A m10 fine is a 1.25 pitch so for every 360 degree turn the nut moves 1.25mm on the threaded rod. I assume you have a nut on the other track rod end? If so simply wind it back 10 turns. The distance moved should be 12.5mm if a 1.25 pitch. Hope that helps
Edited by RobXjcoupe on Sunday 2nd July 22:34
I've ordered a mix of everything and I'll see what fits best.
I'm a toolmaker by the way
lol
.......... M10 'coarse' (std) is 1.5mm pitch.
M10 'fine' is 1.25mm pitch.
M10 'extra fine' is 1.0mm pitch.
3/8" UNF has 18 threads per inch (which is a pitch of approx 1.41mm) and
3/8" UNC has 16 tpi (1.5875mm pitch)
...so if you're going to decide by measuring ten threads, you'd better be able to measure the difference between 14.1mm, 15.0mm and 15.9mm...
Get yourself one of these, one of these and one of these and, with practice, you'll be able to identify most threads. Knowing what it's likely to be helps, and having a selection of known bolts & nuts is a good way of confirming your findings.
Here's a thought (before people with less than 100% complete mechanical knowledge are flamed for working on their cars); the spelling and grammar on this forum are atrocious, but that doesn't stop people posting...
M10 'fine' is 1.25mm pitch.
M10 'extra fine' is 1.0mm pitch.
3/8" UNF has 18 threads per inch (which is a pitch of approx 1.41mm) and
3/8" UNC has 16 tpi (1.5875mm pitch)
...so if you're going to decide by measuring ten threads, you'd better be able to measure the difference between 14.1mm, 15.0mm and 15.9mm...
Get yourself one of these, one of these and one of these and, with practice, you'll be able to identify most threads. Knowing what it's likely to be helps, and having a selection of known bolts & nuts is a good way of confirming your findings.
Here's a thought (before people with less than 100% complete mechanical knowledge are flamed for working on their cars); the spelling and grammar on this forum are atrocious, but that doesn't stop people posting...
Edited by TwinKam on Monday 3rd July 11:30
TwinKam said:
M10 'coarse' (std) is 1.5mm pitch.
M10 'fine' is 1.25mm pitch.
M10 'extra fine' is 1.0mm pitch.
3/8" UNF has 18 threads per inch (which is a pitch of approx 1.41mm) and
3/8" UNC has 16 tpi (1.5875mm pitch)
...so if you're going to decide by measuring ten threads, you'd better be able to measure the difference between 14.1mm, 15.0mm and 15.9mm...
Get yourself one of these, one of these and one of these and, with practice, you'll be able to identify most threads. Knowing what it's likely to be helps, and having a selection of known bolts & nuts is a good way of confirming your findings.
Here's a thought (before people with less than 100% complete mechanical knowledge are flamed for working on their cars); the spelling and grammar on this forum are atrocious, but that doesn't stop people posting...
Cheers TwinKam, they look the stuff. M10 'fine' is 1.25mm pitch.
M10 'extra fine' is 1.0mm pitch.
3/8" UNF has 18 threads per inch (which is a pitch of approx 1.41mm) and
3/8" UNC has 16 tpi (1.5875mm pitch)
...so if you're going to decide by measuring ten threads, you'd better be able to measure the difference between 14.1mm, 15.0mm and 15.9mm...
Get yourself one of these, one of these and one of these and, with practice, you'll be able to identify most threads. Knowing what it's likely to be helps, and having a selection of known bolts & nuts is a good way of confirming your findings.
Here's a thought (before people with less than 100% complete mechanical knowledge are flamed for working on their cars); the spelling and grammar on this forum are atrocious, but that doesn't stop people posting...
Edited by TwinKam on Monday 3rd July 11:30
phillpot said:
A screw thread can be almost any pitch provided a suitable tool is ground up. M40 with a 0.7mm pitch for example if needs must, it really isn't that big a deal if making specific one off items but if it isn't a so called standard type it gets difficult to stock every eventuality.
Imperial threads to me create a bigger headache (for myself) as it's the imperial to metric conversion calcs, but once a machine is set up its cut exactly the same way.
It's was posted earlier about a possible imperial thread. So it could be 3/8 as its conversion is very close to a measured 9.6mm dia, it's then measured as tpi and not so easy to determine quickly as a metric thread
unless the simple but correct tools are available lolTwinKam said:
Here's a thought (before people with less than 100% complete mechanical knowledge are flamed for working on their cars); the spelling and grammar on this forum are atrocious, but that doesn't stop people posting...
I don't think the OP has been flamed at all. It's a safety critical item, he needs to be 100% certain that the nut is the correct one and the threads on the TRE aren't worn, however if you think I've flamed him fair enough. Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff