Discussion
You have to stand it on end and pour oil on top of it ;-)
Basically get the oil pressure up in the engine and then start the car. Break the cam in at medium rpm's for appx 15-20 mins. That can be done in increments if that's easier for you. I've never done it in one go.
I used to use a drill and oil pump driver to get the oil round the engine. It's surprising how much resistance there is.
Basically get the oil pressure up in the engine and then start the car. Break the cam in at medium rpm's for appx 15-20 mins. That can be done in increments if that's easier for you. I've never done it in one go.
I used to use a drill and oil pump driver to get the oil round the engine. It's surprising how much resistance there is.
https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RX1358
Designed to keep the metal surfaces apart during bed in so you dont get mirco welds that rip the hardened surface off, but as boosted says dot let it idle during bed in.
Designed to keep the metal surfaces apart during bed in so you dont get mirco welds that rip the hardened surface off, but as boosted says dot let it idle during bed in.
Thanks for replies, but I was meaning if I build it up with grease on one day then next week built some more then maybe two months later I was ready for start up would the grease and lifters still be alright? Or would I be better trying to get a free weekend, which seems like mission impossible at the moment. Started a body off 2 1/2 years ago and still not finished.
Twistygit said:
Thanks for replies, but I was meaning if I build it up with grease on one day then next week built some more then maybe two months later I was ready for start up would the grease and lifters still be alright? Or would I be better trying to get a free weekend, which seems like mission impossible at the moment. Started a body off 2 1/2 years ago and still not finished.
Use on the cam-lobes and lifters inc bearings etc that way you could leave it 12 months + without issues http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/graphogen-assembly-lu... or Clevite bearing guard both stay put Real-steel sell this one, and like mentioned dont let it idle, also if its a serp just prime/pack the pump with either of the above and fill the oil filter and just fire up making sure the oil light goes out virtually instant in my experience, although I managed to prime mine on the engine stand with no spark plugs fitted and by hand (serp engine) Edited by Sardonicus on Friday 28th July 11:00
I used comp cams cam lube which is quite gloopy so it should stick to the lobes for a while. I didn't start mine for a month after the rebuild.
But, DO NOT let the car idle when breaking in the new cam. It's the worst thing you can do. Kent cams told me to get the engine to 2k revs from the get go. Hold it there for 20 mins, and every now and again, raise to 4k for a second or so and then back to 2k.
Don't be surprised if your manifold and down pipe glow red for the first 10 mins. It happens sometimes.
Don't forget to fill the new(?) lifters with oil. Obviously the same oil you are going to use in the engine (break in oil). Did you replace the cam bearings?
Which cam did you go for? Might be worth ringing the company for specific advice for that cam. For example, when I bought mine, a TVR mechanic and a well known (non TVR) engine builder told me to still use the double valve springs with my new cam, which came with single. But Kent categorically said use the single as it would prolong the life of the cam (which TVRs are know for eating) and valve float is not an issue unless you are ragging it all the time. Which I won't, as I rebuilt my engine with the specific desire to have loads of low end power & torque.
But, DO NOT let the car idle when breaking in the new cam. It's the worst thing you can do. Kent cams told me to get the engine to 2k revs from the get go. Hold it there for 20 mins, and every now and again, raise to 4k for a second or so and then back to 2k.
Don't be surprised if your manifold and down pipe glow red for the first 10 mins. It happens sometimes.
Don't forget to fill the new(?) lifters with oil. Obviously the same oil you are going to use in the engine (break in oil). Did you replace the cam bearings?
Which cam did you go for? Might be worth ringing the company for specific advice for that cam. For example, when I bought mine, a TVR mechanic and a well known (non TVR) engine builder told me to still use the double valve springs with my new cam, which came with single. But Kent categorically said use the single as it would prolong the life of the cam (which TVRs are know for eating) and valve float is not an issue unless you are ragging it all the time. Which I won't, as I rebuilt my engine with the specific desire to have loads of low end power & torque.
Boosted LS1 said:
OP as said above it helps if you fill the lifters with oil. You stand them upright in a tub of oil for a day or so and slowly the oil will leak into them. You'll get a less rattly start up if you do this first and the valves will operate as intended.
Problem here is you can't measure/set the preload if the lifters are full.I've seen it mentioned fitting light or single springs for the cam break-in to reduce the load on the cam/lifter interface as a good idea but that would involve stripping the heads again.
Leaving the lifters empty will, for the first few seconds, have the same effect of reducing the load on the cam.
When doing the break-in, if possible, set up a fan in front of the car to get as much air as possible through the engine bay and bypass the otter switch so the rad fans are running full chat. The exhaust will glow cherry red and could melt the plug extenders and damage the paint on the chassis tubes. We use the fan from our rolling road for this job and it works a treat.
Steve
Boosted LS1 said:
^ I'm not sure Steve. I think the lifters compress and bleed some oil out when the valvetrain's assembled. It's been a long time since I've done this but I've always filled my lifters and been able to check preloads using a suitably thick bent paperclip.
This. I used filed down coat hanger. Worked a treat.There is flexibility with this. If you swop heads, gaskets or rocker arms or do anything that may change the valve train specs you wouldn't be expected to remove the intake assembly and valley gasket in order to look at the lifters. You would use an adjustable pushrod to establish zero preload and then set your preloads via shims, machining the pedestals or changing pushrod length.
You wouldn't remove the followers and drain them. They drain a small amount on their own and the spring inside stops them collapsing.
You wouldn't remove the followers and drain them. They drain a small amount on their own and the spring inside stops them collapsing.
Perhaps you've just changed the valve train, fitted a set of aftermarket rockers? Basically made some changes. The pressure in the large diameter oil gallery when running will fill the lifters when running. When the engine's switched off there will be pressure from the pushrods on the lifters and low to zero pressure in the gallery. Hence why the lifters leak down.
On an ls engine you can't get to the lifters unless you remove the heads and people swop cams and valvetrain parts without accessing the lifters.
I'd suggest that as long as the engine's been standing for a day or so preloads can be set safely. Just so long as you only set/adjust them once only. If you double check and reset them again you'll push the plunger down further and get a false preload.
The internal spring holds the cup upwards. The oil prevents compression of the plunger when running. I don't think there's a wrong way of checking preloads just different methods :-)
On an ls engine you can't get to the lifters unless you remove the heads and people swop cams and valvetrain parts without accessing the lifters.
I'd suggest that as long as the engine's been standing for a day or so preloads can be set safely. Just so long as you only set/adjust them once only. If you double check and reset them again you'll push the plunger down further and get a false preload.
The internal spring holds the cup upwards. The oil prevents compression of the plunger when running. I don't think there's a wrong way of checking preloads just different methods :-)
Edited by Boosted LS1 on Sunday 30th July 20:20
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