Removing Air Lock
Discussion
Since having my car serviced I have a problem with overheating. Not losing any coolant, but the gauge goes racing up to well over 90. I am assuming I have an air lock in the system and was windering what the easiest way to remove these is? Do I need to drain the whole cooling system?
Assuming it was serviced by a TVR specialist, this is quite surprising and I suggest you talk to them about it first. Ask them what they changed and whether they have any suggestions. Perhaps they changed the stat for a different spec one and the cooling system is actually working fine, just at a different temperature. If you want to investigate it yourself, start by checking the water level and bleeding the radiator, also check the fan comes on at the same indicated temperature as before.
GreenV8S said:
....Lots of sensible things and.... If you want to investigate it yourself, start by checking the water level and bleeding the radiator, also check the fan comes on at the same indicated temperature as before.
Just reminded me of the time we had a similar problem with the wifes' BMW 328, boiling up for no apparent reason. Actual reason, water pump impeller disintegrated
Solution fit new water pump....
In that case the impeller was made of a plastic material, my experience of older (pre SD1) RV8s is that they have alloy impellers so very unlikely to fail, but not sure about the later (SD1, Vitesse, Serpentine) engines? Hopefully someone will elucidate!
In my experience the only way to remove an airlock is from the top hose, with the engine off and cold, remove the brass screw from the swirl pot and top up to overflowing. Replace the cap and repeatedly squeeze the top hose listening for the sound of water. As you squeeze the hose any air will be agitated into the small headspace in the swirl pot. Take the swirl cap off again and refill, recap then squeeze the top hose again. Keep doing this until there is no air to be found in the swirl pot headspace. Be aware the swirl pot cap is difficult to open. The pot is soft aluminium and will not survive a bashing. Better to use gentle leverage rather than a hammer.
Thanks for all the advice so far. This problem is still on going. I drained the coolant as per the bible and still had the problem. I am not experiencing any problems or losing any coolant so thought it might be a problem with the gauge or sender. I got a new sender and connected it up and put it in some boiling water, and the gauge read roughly right. When I did the same with the old sender, the gauge went back up to 110. Therefore I replaced the sender, took her out for a spin and gauge sat at 75-80. Filled up in a garage and when I next checked the gauge (500 yards from the garage) the gauge is reading 110 again. Now I am completely confused. I had spoken to the garage and they said they didn't change anything. The fans are coming on, but the gauge reads 110 when they do. Could it be an earthing problem? Any suggestions would be appreciated as the weather is starting to perk up!
same sort of thing has just started happening to my car but not everytime!!!i think that maybe the stat is opening but not enuf....i was gonna change mine theother day but its in awkward place and i have a rather shi*e toolkit,as i only drive short distances every day i dont get a chance to get temp up so am gonna keep an eye on it!!!let me know how u get on,cheers rob
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