Heavy clutch pedal
Discussion
My son recently fitted a new standard 500 clutch from powers into Alun, (classichims) car.
It is as light as a very light thing, read Nissan Micra or similar. It is fantastic to use.
I suggest changing the clutch complete if it is of unknown miles or in fact has done a lot of miles, you can't lose.
Also check that you have the 1 inch diameter slave cylinder rather than the more common seven eights diameter. This will make a small amount of difference but not hugely noticeable .
It is as light as a very light thing, read Nissan Micra or similar. It is fantastic to use.
I suggest changing the clutch complete if it is of unknown miles or in fact has done a lot of miles, you can't lose.
Also check that you have the 1 inch diameter slave cylinder rather than the more common seven eights diameter. This will make a small amount of difference but not hugely noticeable .
phazed said:
My son recently fitted a new standard 500 clutch from powers into Alun, (classichims) car.
It is as light as a very light thing, read Nissan Micra or similar. It is fantastic to use.
I suggest changing the clutch complete if it is of unknown miles or in fact has done a lot of miles, you can't lose.
Also check that you have the 1 inch diameter slave cylinder rather than the more common seven eights diameter. This will make a small amount of difference but not hugely noticeable .
From Powers,,, or was it Tvr Parts It is as light as a very light thing, read Nissan Micra or similar. It is fantastic to use.
I suggest changing the clutch complete if it is of unknown miles or in fact has done a lot of miles, you can't lose.
Also check that you have the 1 inch diameter slave cylinder rather than the more common seven eights diameter. This will make a small amount of difference but not hugely noticeable .
It’s very light I know that.
Maybe replacing the fork arm has helped as it’s much smoother on the pedal now. When hot the peddle would judder like it needed greasing but that’s all gone now.
I’ve wellied the car a few times with the new clutch and all seems ace.
I added a remote servo to mine that came off an MG and fitted it in the void at the front of the the car where the carbon canister used to be.
The difference is night and day, light enough to be comfortable but still retains the right feel for driving.
Look up the 'lighter clutch' threads on here for more info and in a couple of them you will find my posts and the journey getting it in there.
It is very diy able but at the time it was frustrating getting it to fit in the tight space at the front of the car, while trying to get it to sit at the right angle.
Looking back I could do one in a couple of long afternoons knowing what I now know.
The difference is night and day, light enough to be comfortable but still retains the right feel for driving.
Look up the 'lighter clutch' threads on here for more info and in a couple of them you will find my posts and the journey getting it in there.
It is very diy able but at the time it was frustrating getting it to fit in the tight space at the front of the car, while trying to get it to sit at the right angle.
Looking back I could do one in a couple of long afternoons knowing what I now know.
Classic Chim said:
phazed said:
My son recently fitted a new standard 500 clutch from powers into Alun, (classichims) car.
It is as light as a very light thing, read Nissan Micra or similar. It is fantastic to use.
I suggest changing the clutch complete if it is of unknown miles or in fact has done a lot of miles, you can't lose.
Also check that you have the 1 inch diameter slave cylinder rather than the more common seven eights diameter. This will make a small amount of difference but not hugely noticeable .
From Powers,,, or was it Tvr Parts It is as light as a very light thing, read Nissan Micra or similar. It is fantastic to use.
I suggest changing the clutch complete if it is of unknown miles or in fact has done a lot of miles, you can't lose.
Also check that you have the 1 inch diameter slave cylinder rather than the more common seven eights diameter. This will make a small amount of difference but not hugely noticeable .
It’s very light I know that.
Maybe replacing the fork arm has helped as it’s much smoother on the pedal now. When hot the peddle would judder like it needed greasing but that’s all gone now.
I’ve wellied the car a few times with the new clutch and all seems ace.
Edited by QBee on Saturday 28th October 20:47
I have a servo in mine as I have Arthur-itis in my left big toe. Installed by Engineer 1949 for me, though Mat Smith knows how to do the install having seen mine.
If you want to have a look you are welcome to come and see mine. It is basically an MGB 6 inch servo connected to a vacuum take off on the plenum area and twin copper pipes running to/from the clutch set up.
I am at Newark, so just over an hour from ‘alifaxfield.
If you want to have a look you are welcome to come and see mine. It is basically an MGB 6 inch servo connected to a vacuum take off on the plenum area and twin copper pipes running to/from the clutch set up.
I am at Newark, so just over an hour from ‘alifaxfield.
CHIMV8 500 said:
I had the same issue in my 400 but put up with it
Now same in my 500,if I think back some guys on here have had the same issue and replaced with a lighter replacement
Can you point me in the right direction as to what make and model to replace existing please
Cheap option is to fit a servo, around £150 for the parts including brake pipe, unions and non return valve. The servo I used came from Now same in my 500,if I think back some guys on here have had the same issue and replaced with a lighter replacement
Can you point me in the right direction as to what make and model to replace existing please
http://mgbhive.co.uk/product/16-mgb-remote-brake-s...
Jazzdude and QBee have theirs fitted in the front wheel arch, driver's side. I couldn't due to other stuff so fitted mine in the boot. If you can make up 2 brake pipe lengths with unions, it is a simple job.
Couple of pics:
Before fitting the brake pipes:
Stainless non return valve on the plenum:
If your clutch has been in a long time and the pressure plate springs are hardening then fitting a servo will just mask the problem for a while.
To be honest I nearly put the servo where you show it as I was getting so frustrated with getting it to fit in the nose.
The problem was I had the hoses coming straight out the servo and then bending back which was solved by putting hard pipe curved back 180 deg backwards.
It all fitted perfectly then and connections were made under the slave cylinder to both feeds.
As I said it simple to do if you don't mind taking the radiator out for access and then binning the carbon canister.
The problem was I had the hoses coming straight out the servo and then bending back which was solved by putting hard pipe curved back 180 deg backwards.
It all fitted perfectly then and connections were made under the slave cylinder to both feeds.
As I said it simple to do if you don't mind taking the radiator out for access and then binning the carbon canister.
Rad is in a different position in the Chimaera - not saying it won't fit as in the above Griff photos, just need to have a look see.
Mine is fully under the headlight in the wing, in place of the carbon canister, which I agree looks a bit of a PITA, but my car is fully decatted anyway, so i don't need the carbon canister. The fumes are vented out under the car.
I have to say it has turned a car, that was unpleasant when in town or crawling in a jam on the M25/1/6/5/40/11, into a joy to drive anywhere.
Classichim's clutch is a lot lighter than many (standard 500 clutch kit from TVR Parts, fitted with care and love by Phazed senior and junior), but still not as light as mine, even though i have had a 500 bhp clutch from Racetech fitted in mine. So the servo will lighten any clutch, regardless of clutch kit fitted.
The only downside with the servo as I have it fitted is that if you start the car in gear, foot on clutch, as i do (can't be arsed with the handbrake), it doesn't work fully immediately, as it needs to build up some vacuum pressure. On modern road cars they tend to have some sort of vacuum reservoir fitted to get around this - another thing I looked into but lost the will.....
Mine is fully under the headlight in the wing, in place of the carbon canister, which I agree looks a bit of a PITA, but my car is fully decatted anyway, so i don't need the carbon canister. The fumes are vented out under the car.
I have to say it has turned a car, that was unpleasant when in town or crawling in a jam on the M25/1/6/5/40/11, into a joy to drive anywhere.
Classichim's clutch is a lot lighter than many (standard 500 clutch kit from TVR Parts, fitted with care and love by Phazed senior and junior), but still not as light as mine, even though i have had a 500 bhp clutch from Racetech fitted in mine. So the servo will lighten any clutch, regardless of clutch kit fitted.
The only downside with the servo as I have it fitted is that if you start the car in gear, foot on clutch, as i do (can't be arsed with the handbrake), it doesn't work fully immediately, as it needs to build up some vacuum pressure. On modern road cars they tend to have some sort of vacuum reservoir fitted to get around this - another thing I looked into but lost the will.....
DaveG said:
Servo install. You can retain the Carbon canister in a 500 if required. Here is the servo installed in front of the radiator.
I have however also removed my canister.
DaveI have however also removed my canister.
About to do this on my griff and did consider the same solution but was worried about temp build up when stationary. I take you have not had any heat related problems?
Cheers
No heat problems to date - I do not think there is any issues in that respect. I have just realised that photo is incorrect and the servo is shown "upside down" -- I will edit and update with a new photo tomorrow. (Now edited)
I have placed some heat insulation around the steel flex-pipe running back along the wing to the master cylinder. Other mods required were ; a new support plate on the wing (over the access to carbon canister), and I moved the swirl tank further along the chassis cross member to make room for the windscreen water tank.
I have placed some heat insulation around the steel flex-pipe running back along the wing to the master cylinder. Other mods required were ; a new support plate on the wing (over the access to carbon canister), and I moved the swirl tank further along the chassis cross member to make room for the windscreen water tank.
Edited by DaveG on Tuesday 31st October 22:33
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