Leather seat treatment
Discussion
Edit: Apologies for the spelling of 'leather,' I can't change the heading.
I'll be treating the leather on the seats in the Chimaera shortly. I already have one seat taken apart with the passenger fitted as a driver's seat temporarily. I will of course do both, they'd never match otherwise.
I've read a lot of threads on here and elsewhere, and I'm leaning toward Woolies for no other reason than it is all applied by hand. Furniture Clinic gets good reviews but you end up needing more compressed air usually it seems.
My question for the masses is whether or not the leather should only be treated when it is taut and fitted to the seat frame. I have it separated at the moment and you can see where a previous owner has recoloured it, the wrong shade:
I could get into every corner while the covers are off the seats but would the finish be compromised afterward stretching them onto the seat frames?
I'll be treating the leather on the seats in the Chimaera shortly. I already have one seat taken apart with the passenger fitted as a driver's seat temporarily. I will of course do both, they'd never match otherwise.
I've read a lot of threads on here and elsewhere, and I'm leaning toward Woolies for no other reason than it is all applied by hand. Furniture Clinic gets good reviews but you end up needing more compressed air usually it seems.
My question for the masses is whether or not the leather should only be treated when it is taut and fitted to the seat frame. I have it separated at the moment and you can see where a previous owner has recoloured it, the wrong shade:
I could get into every corner while the covers are off the seats but would the finish be compromised afterward stretching them onto the seat frames?
Edited by ianwayne on Friday 10th November 14:17
I’m not a leather expert but the picture seems to be a nicely worn seat cover. The dark and light patches are as they say patina and my 95 Griff Seats look almost identical and they haven’t been re-coloured but do have about 80k miles of sitting on them. The stitching on mine used to be dark blue but have faded to almost magnolia unless you look really close to see tiny amounts of blue left in the bleached threads.
I would say clean the leather thoroughly as fitted to the frame paying attention to the seams and creases and also apply any coloured feed to the fitted covers. If your leather is a bit hard I found once clean to smear the entire cover in Vaseline and leave for a week or so to soak in and kind of moisturise before wiping any excess off. The leather goes back to a lovely supple material after
I would say clean the leather thoroughly as fitted to the frame paying attention to the seams and creases and also apply any coloured feed to the fitted covers. If your leather is a bit hard I found once clean to smear the entire cover in Vaseline and leave for a week or so to soak in and kind of moisturise before wiping any excess off. The leather goes back to a lovely supple material after
Not a good photo really, apologies, taken last night with a flash. The back of the seat where the leather wraps round, it is magnolia, as are the vinyl sides, but somebody has treated it a sort of butterscotch colour. The seat back is worse than this!
I think you're right that it is best done after fitting to the frame. It is also very thin on one side so I intend to swap the covers over. Not as easy as it sounds! Unless you're happy to have the seat adjuster jammed against the central tunnel that is, but by stripping the frames, you can swap the sides over. The best seat will then be on the driver's side.
I think you're right that it is best done after fitting to the frame. It is also very thin on one side so I intend to swap the covers over. Not as easy as it sounds! Unless you're happy to have the seat adjuster jammed against the central tunnel that is, but by stripping the frames, you can swap the sides over. The best seat will then be on the driver's side.
Hi
If you are re-colouring then you will need slightly different products for leather and vinyl...Also I wouldn't use anything to soften them up yet as this might hinder the re-colouring...also you have to prep the material so this would remove anything you put on it.
This would definitely be better done whilst on the foam...
Ziga
If you are re-colouring then you will need slightly different products for leather and vinyl...Also I wouldn't use anything to soften them up yet as this might hinder the re-colouring...also you have to prep the material so this would remove anything you put on it.
This would definitely be better done whilst on the foam...
Ziga
Right, OK, I can tell you exactly what you need to do. I'm a leather restorer of 6 years.
Firstly, ideally do the leather with the inners back in. Out is just going to give you problems with even coverage.
Prep, prep and prep some more. F'Clinic do do this, acetone based. You need to strip any wax, silicone, finish, creams etc, or the pigment wont adhere.
Be prepared to cut away a square CM of good coloured leather from under the seat, for them to colour match from. They use the same spectro as me, and this shall be enough in size.
Thin coats of pigment is essential. Dry between coats.
I'd suggest applying the first coat with sponge for contact adhesion, and to get well in to the cracks. Pull the leather taught when spraying, otherwise you can risk splits if there is a 'bridge' of pigment in/over a crack - if that makes sense!
Leave to cure for 24 hours, then no products applied for a week.
Get some LTT leather protect.
Or, if you prefer, bring them to me in the East Mids (Derbyshire border) and I'll do them for £100 a seat - my website is in my profile
Firstly, ideally do the leather with the inners back in. Out is just going to give you problems with even coverage.
Prep, prep and prep some more. F'Clinic do do this, acetone based. You need to strip any wax, silicone, finish, creams etc, or the pigment wont adhere.
Be prepared to cut away a square CM of good coloured leather from under the seat, for them to colour match from. They use the same spectro as me, and this shall be enough in size.
Thin coats of pigment is essential. Dry between coats.
I'd suggest applying the first coat with sponge for contact adhesion, and to get well in to the cracks. Pull the leather taught when spraying, otherwise you can risk splits if there is a 'bridge' of pigment in/over a crack - if that makes sense!
Leave to cure for 24 hours, then no products applied for a week.
Get some LTT leather protect.
Or, if you prefer, bring them to me in the East Mids (Derbyshire border) and I'll do them for £100 a seat - my website is in my profile
Edited by Fermit The Krog and Sexy Sarah on Friday 10th November 19:05
mrzigazaga said:
Hi
If you are re-colouring then you will need slightly different products for leather and vinyl...Also I wouldn't use anything to soften them up yet as this might hinder the re-colouring...also you have to prep the material so this would remove anything you put on it.
This would definitely be better done whilst on the foam...
Ziga
Same product, different primer. If you are re-colouring then you will need slightly different products for leather and vinyl...Also I wouldn't use anything to soften them up yet as this might hinder the re-colouring...also you have to prep the material so this would remove anything you put on it.
This would definitely be better done whilst on the foam...
Ziga
RobXjcoupe said:
I’m not a leather expert but the picture seems to be a nicely worn seat cover. The dark and light patches are as they say patina and my 95 Griff Seats look almost identical and they haven’t been re-coloured but do have about 80k miles of sitting on them. The stitching on mine used to be dark blue but have faded to almost magnolia unless you look really close to see tiny amounts of blue left in the bleached threads.
I would say clean the leather thoroughly as fitted to the frame paying attention to the seams and creases and also apply any coloured feed to the fitted covers. If your leather is a bit hard I found once clean to smear the entire cover in Vaseline and leave for a week or so to soak in and kind of moisturise before wiping any excess off. The leather goes back to a lovely supple material after
A pointer. Never ever apply Vaseline to leather. Yes it moisturises hard/dry leather, but it shall leave a film of oil on the finish, which shall only serve to attract dirt - pigments biggest enemy.I would say clean the leather thoroughly as fitted to the frame paying attention to the seams and creases and also apply any coloured feed to the fitted covers. If your leather is a bit hard I found once clean to smear the entire cover in Vaseline and leave for a week or so to soak in and kind of moisturise before wiping any excess off. The leather goes back to a lovely supple material after
Fermit The Krog and Sexy Sarah said:
RobXjcoupe said:
I’m not a leather expert but the picture seems to be a nicely worn seat cover. The dark and light patches are as they say patina and my 95 Griff Seats look almost identical and they haven’t been re-coloured but do have about 80k miles of sitting on them. The stitching on mine used to be dark blue but have faded to almost magnolia unless you look really close to see tiny amounts of blue left in the bleached threads.
I would say clean the leather thoroughly as fitted to the frame paying attention to the seams and creases and also apply any coloured feed to the fitted covers. If your leather is a bit hard I found once clean to smear the entire cover in Vaseline and leave for a week or so to soak in and kind of moisturise before wiping any excess off. The leather goes back to a lovely supple material after
A pointer. Never ever apply Vaseline to leather. Yes it moisturises hard/dry leather, but it shall leave a film of oil on the finish, which shall only serve to attract dirt - pigments biggest enemy.I would say clean the leather thoroughly as fitted to the frame paying attention to the seams and creases and also apply any coloured feed to the fitted covers. If your leather is a bit hard I found once clean to smear the entire cover in Vaseline and leave for a week or so to soak in and kind of moisturise before wiping any excess off. The leather goes back to a lovely supple material after
I do usually give the seats a wash down afterwards as like you say dirt and oil just gets absorbed by the oil.I appreciate the advice though
Fermit The Krog and Sexy Sarah said:
Right, OK, I can tell you exactly what you need to do. I'm a leather restorer of 6 years.
Firstly, ideally do the leather with the inners back in. Out is just going to give you problems with even coverage.
Prep, prep and prep some more. F'Clinic do do this, acetone based. You need to strip any wax, silicone, finish, creams etc, or the pigment wont adhere.
Be prepared to cut away a square CM of good coloured leather from under the seat, for them to colour match from. They use the same spectro as me, and this shall be enough in size.
Thin coats of pigment is essential. Dry between coats.
I'd suggest applying the first coat with sponge for contact adhesion, and to get well in to the cracks. Pull the leather taught when spraying, otherwise you can risk splits if there is a 'bridge' of pigment in/over a crack - if that makes sense!
Leave to cure for 24 hours, then no products applied for a week.
Get some LTT leather protect.
Or, if you prefer, bring them to me in the East Mids (Derbyshire border) and I'll do them for £100 a seat - my website is in my profile
Firstly, a mod has changed the title for me, thanks!Firstly, ideally do the leather with the inners back in. Out is just going to give you problems with even coverage.
Prep, prep and prep some more. F'Clinic do do this, acetone based. You need to strip any wax, silicone, finish, creams etc, or the pigment wont adhere.
Be prepared to cut away a square CM of good coloured leather from under the seat, for them to colour match from. They use the same spectro as me, and this shall be enough in size.
Thin coats of pigment is essential. Dry between coats.
I'd suggest applying the first coat with sponge for contact adhesion, and to get well in to the cracks. Pull the leather taught when spraying, otherwise you can risk splits if there is a 'bridge' of pigment in/over a crack - if that makes sense!
Leave to cure for 24 hours, then no products applied for a week.
Get some LTT leather protect.
Or, if you prefer, bring them to me in the East Mids (Derbyshire border) and I'll do them for £100 a seat - my website is in my profile
Thanks for the tips, I may be in touch if I make a horlicks of it! It's a hobby for me as well as being an owner so I try to do a lot of stuff myself. When I take the other seat out, I'll transfer over the tilt levers and rebuild before treatment, although I think leaving the seat squab and backs split will help. Only 4 bolts. Complete assembly after treatment would likely re-mark or damage the finish.
The Furniture Clinic kit has 5 steps involving prep, cleaner, colour, sealant and finish. Woolies is only 3 steps with only one cleaner type (although you get much more!) and one sealer. Both get some good reviews but are 5 steps necessary? I ask because the seats are only the 1/2 leather type with vinyl sides and backs which I intend to leave as they are.
The small Woolies kit would be sufficient it seems but the FC kit may need to be the medium kit costing a bit more.
Several owners have just plumped for Jaguar magnolia which looks a good match. The leather from under the edge of a seat is actually lighter (due to no light exposure I expect) than the vinyl trim on the seats now, which shouldn't have faded? The side bolsters are dark blue as are the door trims, so a perfect match isn't that essential. I hadn't noticed when I bought it that the driver's seat is a sort of buttercream/ butterscotch colour.
Here's a better photo. The lighter shade of the leather at the bottom is NOT due to the angle of the light!
Edited by ianwayne on Saturday 11th November 11:14
ianwayne said:
Fermit The Krog and Sexy Sarah said:
Right, OK, I can tell you exactly what you need to do. I'm a leather restorer of 6 years.
Firstly, ideally do the leather with the inners back in. Out is just going to give you problems with even coverage.
Prep, prep and prep some more. F'Clinic do do this, acetone based. You need to strip any wax, silicone, finish, creams etc, or the pigment wont adhere.
Be prepared to cut away a square CM of good coloured leather from under the seat, for them to colour match from. They use the same spectro as me, and this shall be enough in size.
Thin coats of pigment is essential. Dry between coats.
I'd suggest applying the first coat with sponge for contact adhesion, and to get well in to the cracks. Pull the leather taught when spraying, otherwise you can risk splits if there is a 'bridge' of pigment in/over a crack - if that makes sense!
Leave to cure for 24 hours, then no products applied for a week.
Get some LTT leather protect.
Or, if you prefer, bring them to me in the East Mids (Derbyshire border) and I'll do them for £100 a seat - my website is in my profile
Firstly, a mod has changed the title for me, thanks!Firstly, ideally do the leather with the inners back in. Out is just going to give you problems with even coverage.
Prep, prep and prep some more. F'Clinic do do this, acetone based. You need to strip any wax, silicone, finish, creams etc, or the pigment wont adhere.
Be prepared to cut away a square CM of good coloured leather from under the seat, for them to colour match from. They use the same spectro as me, and this shall be enough in size.
Thin coats of pigment is essential. Dry between coats.
I'd suggest applying the first coat with sponge for contact adhesion, and to get well in to the cracks. Pull the leather taught when spraying, otherwise you can risk splits if there is a 'bridge' of pigment in/over a crack - if that makes sense!
Leave to cure for 24 hours, then no products applied for a week.
Get some LTT leather protect.
Or, if you prefer, bring them to me in the East Mids (Derbyshire border) and I'll do them for £100 a seat - my website is in my profile
Thanks for the tips, I may be in touch if I make a horlicks of it! It's a hobby for me as well as being an owner so I try to do a lot of stuff myself. When I take the other seat out, I'll transfer over the tilt levers and rebuild before treatment, although I think leaving the seat squab and backs split will help. Only 4 bolts. Complete assembly after treatment would likely re-mark or damage the finish.
The Furniture Clinic kit has 5 steps involving prep, cleaner, colour, sealant and finish. Woolies is only 3 steps with only one cleaner type (although you get much more!) and one sealer. Both get some good reviews but are 5 steps necessary? I ask because the seats are only the 1/2 leather type with vinyl sides and backs which I intend to leave as they are.
The small Woolies kit would be sufficient it seems but the FC kit may need to be the medium kit costing a bit more.
Several owners have just plumped for Jaguar magnolia which looks a good match. The leather from under the edge of a seat is actually lighter (due to no light exposure I expect) than the vinyl trim on the seats now, which shouldn't have faded? The side bolsters are dark blue as are the door trims, so a perfect match isn't that essential. I hadn't noticed when I bought it that the driver's seat is a sort of buttercream/ butterscotch colour.
Here's a better photo. The lighter shade of the leather at the bottom is NOT due to the angle of the light!
Edited by ianwayne on Saturday 11th November 11:14
They are good guys though, actually met Duncan from there in person today at the NEC. Spoke with him hundreds of times so nice to put a face to the voice.
A tip I would give - which is what I did starting the company. Buy the cheapest leather item you can find on ebay, likely a house chair, and practice on that. It doesn't matter if you screw that up, and you can try as many times as needed to get it good.
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