Chimaera not catching on start
Chimaera not catching on start
Author
Discussion

Dominic TVRetto

Original Poster:

1,405 posts

203 months

Thursday 28th December 2017
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The chimaera has been taking longer and longer to "catch" on cold startup - and is finally not catching at all. Once running it was fine however, but now simply won't catch at all.

The relays under the middle/left side of the dashboard are loudly clicking away - this seems to have become a lot louder and more prevalent over the summer.

Might these two things be connected, before I start looking at other causes?

Thanks,

Dom

N7GTX

8,258 posts

165 months

Thursday 28th December 2017
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When you turn the ignition on and the relays click, do you hear the fuel pump running? If not then either the relay, the fuel pump or possibly the immobiliser. Check the connections at the pump as they can become corroded/poor/dirty. If you get 12 volts at the pump then the pump is at fault. If you do not then relay or wiring or immobiliser.
If the fuel pump runs with ignition on then with this cold weather suspect the coolant temperature sensor - not the gauge sender unit - which if it fails will tell the ECU the wrong value and you will get either too much fuel or too little.
Also, check the condition of the rotor arm and the segment terminals in the distributor cap for burning/corrosion.

QBee

22,074 posts

166 months

Thursday 28th December 2017
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I have to say I would question the power and quality of the spark first. Whip a couple of plugs out and examine, then work backwards towards the coil.

Penelope Stoppedit

11,209 posts

131 months

Friday 29th December 2017
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What do you mean by catch and catching?

Danattheopticians

375 posts

124 months

Friday 29th December 2017
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Penelope Stoppedit said:
What do you mean by catch and catching?
Well he didn't mean he threw a ball at the engine hehe He means the engine cranks over but won't fire up.

Dom, when mine did this it was the distributor packing up. I was advised before we diagnosed that to check plugs weren't wet.

Dominic TVRetto

Original Poster:

1,405 posts

203 months

Friday 29th December 2017
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Thanks guys - no distributor or coil though (coil packs on emerald).

Will check CTS, plugs etc - just wondered whether relays madly clicking on turnover indicated relay failure or something...

Boosted LS1

21,200 posts

282 months

Friday 29th December 2017
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QBee said:
I have to say I would question the power and quality of the spark first. Whip a couple of plugs out and examine, then work backwards towards the coil.
Also, check if the battery is whizzing it over fast enough whilst making a decent spark. From my rv8 days the spark was usually pretty pathetic and once the plugs were wet it would never start.

N7GTX

8,258 posts

165 months

Friday 29th December 2017
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Dominic TVRetto said:
Thanks guys - no distributor or coil though (coil packs on emerald).

Will check CTS, plugs etc - just wondered whether relays madly clicking on turnover indicated relay failure or something...
Usually means low voltage. As the voltage drops the relay which had been energised then de-energises and trips out. Definitely check the battery voltage.

Dominic TVRetto

Original Poster:

1,405 posts

203 months

Friday 29th December 2017
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Ok thanks, will check. Starter motor still spinning strongly though...??

Boosted LS1

21,200 posts

282 months

Friday 29th December 2017
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Dominic TVRetto said:
Ok thanks, will check. Starter motor still spinning strongly though...??
But is the engine?

N7GTX

8,258 posts

165 months

Friday 29th December 2017
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The starter may be taking the battery voltage down to say, 9 volts causing the loss of sufficient voltage at the relays. If the battery is showing rude health when cranking then a poor connection may be causing it.

Steve_D

13,801 posts

280 months

Friday 29th December 2017
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The emerald will be doing a fuel pump prime at ignition on then run the pump again once the ECU detects cranking revs.
A badly adjusted crank sensor or wiring issues could be causing the ECU to keep dropping the pump signal hence the clicking relays.
See if you can find which relay is clicking...the pumps I have just discussed. The main ECU relay could be if the battery volts are low during crank which again is something which can be tested.

Emerald software may also help identify thing such as a clean rev signal, Coolant temp reading about right etc.

Steve

over_the_hill

3,274 posts

268 months

Monday 1st January 2018
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As a couple of people have mentioned the coolant temp sensor it may be worth linking in this other thread which is currently running

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

for future reference when someone looks this up

Dr Mike Oxgreen

4,419 posts

187 months

Wednesday 3rd January 2018
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Dominic TVRetto said:
Thanks guys - no distributor or coil though (coil packs on emerald).
Did you not think it was kinda important to include this crucial piece of information in your opening post? Or are you happy to allow people to waste their time thinking about your problem and taking the trouble to respond, having reasonably assumed that your engine is standard? It pisses me off when people can’t be bothered to mention something that totally changes the potential diagnosis.

QBee

22,074 posts

166 months

Wednesday 3rd January 2018
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So often these kinds of problems come down to inadequate battery charge/voltage, as said above. I invested less than £5 in an LED voltmeter off a EBay a couple of years back. It plugs into the fag lighter socket in the door of my car and immediately alerts me to a likely non-start -anything below 12.0 volts as I get into the car, and I know I am on dodgy ground.

In my experience far too much time is wasted trying to diagnose myriad starting faults that come down to either a knackered battery, or simply one that needs a good charge.

markcoopers

724 posts

215 months

Wednesday 3rd January 2018
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My vote would be for a week battery and specifically poor earths/feed either to the battery/starter for from engine to the battery. This wild assertion is based on the comment by the OP about it degrading/getting worst. This normally suggests a breakdown/corrosion of a connection.

Dominic TVRetto

Original Poster:

1,405 posts

203 months

Saturday 6th January 2018
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Dr Mike Oxgreen said:
Dominic TVRetto said:
Thanks guys - no distributor or coil though (coil packs on emerald).
Did you not think it was kinda important to include this crucial piece of information in your opening post? Or are you happy to allow people to waste their time thinking about your problem and taking the trouble to respond, having reasonably assumed that your engine is standard? It pisses me off when people can’t be bothered to mention something that totally changes the potential diagnosis.
Thanks for your constructive post Dr.Mike, so let me ignore your rather rude tone and address your criticism.

Firstly, I've been posting about this car here for over 6 years now, so it's not a complete unknown... (previously "domV8" before name-change)

Secondly - perhaps it's just me, but I've always found it prudent to research someone car via their profile before I post a possible answer, to ensure I'm barking up the right tree with my suggestion..?!!

Thirdly - and predominantly - please re-read my initial post. You'll notice that I did not ask the PH massive for causes (*but really appreciate the fact that people have taken the time to consider & respond), but asked a very specific question about relays...

I didn't list all the modifications as, at the time of posting, I didn't have the time to list all the specifics to enable people to consider the myriad of possible solutions in response to a question I did not ask... (see * above).

I hope this clarification provides some salve for your irritation Dr. wink

And again, thanks to all those providing suggestions...

Dr Mike Oxgreen

4,419 posts

187 months

Saturday 6th January 2018
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So you’re expecting people to dig through your profile just because you couldn’t be arsed to provide the key information in your post.

And we’re supposed to know who you are, despite the fact that you’ve changed your user name?

Right. rolleyes

ric355

215 posts

171 months

Saturday 6th January 2018
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I have another car with an Emerald fitted. ISTR that there's a handy LED on the outside of the ECU which lights up when you crank the engine. Red = won't start, green = conditions met for it to start. I believe it's basically telling you whether it's identified the trigger wheel pattern or not and hence knows the position of the crank. It also counts whether there are enough RPM's to fire it up.

Worth a look to see what it does when it doesn't catch (assuming yours has this light too).

Dominic TVRetto

Original Poster:

1,405 posts

203 months

Tuesday 9th January 2018
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Dr Mike Oxgreen said:
So you’re expecting people to dig through your profile just because you couldn’t be arsed to provide the key information in your post.

And we’re supposed to know who you are, despite the fact that you’ve changed your user name?

Right. rolleyes
Awwww look at you getting all irate about some fictional situation you've created in your own head - how sweet you are!

Let me explain this in very simplistic terms for you so you can catch up on your own time...

I ASKED A SIMPLE QUESTION ABOUT RELAYS.

No requests for diagnoses that would require in-depth knowledge of my setup - just a single question. See, that wasn't too hard was it?

This "key information" you are getting so irate about, well, it just doesn't relate in the slightest to my question about relays... So that's why i didn't put it in.

It's all in the OP... There - that wasn't difficult either, was it?!

You getting your pants in a twist about something I never asked for - well, I guess that reflects on you not reading the question properly Dr.Mike - and it should hardly be up to me to teach a Doctor about that now, should it..?

Bless you Dr.Mike, always a pleasure to read your positive contributions wink