T5 gearbox remote linkage
Discussion
Carefully unbolt the two nuts and bolts and remove from the linkage.
Carefully remove the inner nylon sleeves before trying to separate the linkage.
There is also a very thin nylon thrust washer on each side as well, a total of four.
When these are removed you can lift the sliding rod and gearstick out of the way.
It is a good idea to remove this as you can clean it and grease it before reassembly for a smoother shift.
Carefully remove the inner nylon sleeves before trying to separate the linkage.
There is also a very thin nylon thrust washer on each side as well, a total of four.
When these are removed you can lift the sliding rod and gearstick out of the way.
It is a good idea to remove this as you can clean it and grease it before reassembly for a smoother shift.
Hi Liam.
When I did the Griff, I removed the centre console. I think it can all be done from underneath but console removal was not bad and made life easier as the car was on axle stands. Presume a Chimeara would be similar? If not, I am sure someone will be along shortly to correct me lol.
Good luck mate.
When I did the Griff, I removed the centre console. I think it can all be done from underneath but console removal was not bad and made life easier as the car was on axle stands. Presume a Chimeara would be similar? If not, I am sure someone will be along shortly to correct me lol.
Good luck mate.
Thanks all
Linkage is off.
I'm going to split the box and bell housing to take them both out separately. I'm not as strong as I use to be.
Having trouble getting the two top bolts undone, also having trouble getting the engine to bell housing bolts undone. I think I need to find some muscles from somewhere!!
Linkage is off.
I'm going to split the box and bell housing to take them both out separately. I'm not as strong as I use to be.
Having trouble getting the two top bolts undone, also having trouble getting the engine to bell housing bolts undone. I think I need to find some muscles from somewhere!!
hope your using 1/2 drive Been a little while since I've managed to spend time on the car. Good news though, gearbox is out.
Oil seal and the small cross seals are leaking so will replace them all.
While it's all apart is there any reason why I won't fit a lightened flywheel? It's a 4.5 that to my knowledge hasn't had a bottom end rebuild.
Oil seal and the small cross seals are leaking so will replace them all.
While it's all apart is there any reason why I won't fit a lightened flywheel? It's a 4.5 that to my knowledge hasn't had a bottom end rebuild.
Healthy debate 
Is there a risk you’ll introduce shunt.
The 450 is famed for its balance or so I’d like to think
I was advised against it that’s all I actually know
The rewards would be slightly faster pick up and higher revvin I’d have thought but how much difference it actually makes is a good question. The engines pulling a tonne of weight I can’t see a few pounds off making a good overall difference but I’ve been known to be wrong
Was it balanced at the factory in production stage with flywheel on I wonder.
Some say it’s no problem others disagree.
Is there a risk you’ll introduce shunt.
The 450 is famed for its balance or so I’d like to think
I was advised against it that’s all I actually know
The rewards would be slightly faster pick up and higher revvin I’d have thought but how much difference it actually makes is a good question. The engines pulling a tonne of weight I can’t see a few pounds off making a good overall difference but I’ve been known to be wrong
Was it balanced at the factory in production stage with flywheel on I wonder.
Some say it’s no problem others disagree.
Mr Plow said:
Been a little while since I've managed to spend time on the car. Good news though, gearbox is out.
Oil seal and the small cross seals are leaking so will replace them all.
While it's all apart is there any reason why I won't fit a lightened flywheel? It's a 4.5 that to my knowledge hasn't had a bottom end rebuild.
No brainer, the standard flywheel is a millstone.Oil seal and the small cross seals are leaking so will replace them all.
While it's all apart is there any reason why I won't fit a lightened flywheel? It's a 4.5 that to my knowledge hasn't had a bottom end rebuild.
My original cast iron 4.0 litre flywheel weighed in at a mahoosive 28lbs, I had it machined down to 23lbs pretty quickly which made a massive difference.
A few years later I'd sold that lightened cast flywheel and replaced it with an 18lb steel one from TTS, better still......... and still no downsides, drivability remained perfect but the engine spins up so much faster which changes the character of the car and makes the Old Rover V8 feel much more like a sports car engine.
If I enjoyed regular track days I'd probably take it down to 15lbs, if I was off-roading or pulling a horse box in my TVR the original 28lbs millstone would be perfect.... but if like me you want the engine to gather revs far better yet remain a pussy cat on the road... then 18lbs is the sweet spot.
ChimpOnGas said:
No brainer, the standard flywheel is a millstone.
My original cast iron 4.0 litre flywheel weighed in at a mahoosive 28lbs, I had it machined down to 23lbs pretty quickly which made a massive difference.
A few years later I'd sold that lightened cast flywheel and replaced it with an 18lb steel one from TTS, better still......... and still no downsides, drivability remained perfect but the engine spins up so much faster which changes the character of the car and makes the Old Rover V8 feel much more like a sports car engine.
If I enjoyed regular track days I'd probably take it down to 15lbs, if I was off-roading or pulling a horse box in my TVR the original 28lbs millstone would be perfect.... but if like me you want the engine to gather revs far better yet remain a pussy cat on the road... then 18lbs is the sweet spot.
Your still pulling the same car. My original cast iron 4.0 litre flywheel weighed in at a mahoosive 28lbs, I had it machined down to 23lbs pretty quickly which made a massive difference.
A few years later I'd sold that lightened cast flywheel and replaced it with an 18lb steel one from TTS, better still......... and still no downsides, drivability remained perfect but the engine spins up so much faster which changes the character of the car and makes the Old Rover V8 feel much more like a sports car engine.
If I enjoyed regular track days I'd probably take it down to 15lbs, if I was off-roading or pulling a horse box in my TVR the original 28lbs millstone would be perfect.... but if like me you want the engine to gather revs far better yet remain a pussy cat on the road... then 18lbs is the sweet spot.
I have so much engine braking already which tells me a lot.
Engine builder said it would make very little difference and my drag time which is actual proof rather than here say says it all. I’m not even very powerful compared to the rest. On a standard engine a waste of money and that’s the engine builder speaking.
He could be wrong of course
I think if you want one it can’t do any harm as long as no imbalance is created.
Some people laugh at just bolting one on as risky.
I’d talk with a few engine builders who know, just make sure it’s not someone who can sell you one!
Classic Chim said:
Your still pulling the same car.
I have so much engine braking already which tells me a lot.
Engine builder said it would make very little difference and my drag time which is actual proof rather than here say says it all. I’m not even very powerful compared to the rest. On a standard engine a waste of money and that’s the engine builder speaking.
He could be wrong of course
I think if you want one it can’t do any harm as long as no imbalance is created.
Some people laugh at just bolting one on as risky.
I’d talk with a few engine builders who know, just make sure it’s not someone who can sell you one!
Trouble is Alun the standard FW was for the SD1 / P6 Rover and you can appreciate these cars are heavier than our Tivs, but will admit a lightened FW is not to everyones taste I have so much engine braking already which tells me a lot.
Engine builder said it would make very little difference and my drag time which is actual proof rather than here say says it all. I’m not even very powerful compared to the rest. On a standard engine a waste of money and that’s the engine builder speaking.
He could be wrong of course
I think if you want one it can’t do any harm as long as no imbalance is created.
Some people laugh at just bolting one on as risky.
I’d talk with a few engine builders who know, just make sure it’s not someone who can sell you one!
it can make low speed manners appear glitchie or On/Off we are only talking relatively extreme lightness not 19/20 pound for example thats a good weight/mod IMO, my brother was over the moon with his John Eales 19 pound fly the car is otherwise stock apart from Megasquirt etc no downsides as far as he is concerned just brought the motor to life 
Edited by Sardonicus on Thursday 11th January 17:20
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