Crankshaft bolt / distributor removal

[SwanJack]

Hi all, am replacing the timing cover gasket as I sprung a water leak in the usual top right hand corner (standard 400, no pas of a/c). Have drained the cooling system, removed header tank, drained oil and have loosened sump nuts ready for removal). Looking ahead I need to remove the distributor and crankshaft pulley. Am I right in the following approach: Achieve TDC, put car in fifth, get somebody on the brakes, break /loosen crankshaft bolt, check and reset TDC, mark and remove distributor, crankshaft bolt and pulley. Any help appreciated, thanks.

[jazzdude]

Not sure about the crankshaft pulley but I know how to take the dizzy out.

You are right about the TDC mark, but make sure you have it on the compression cycle and not the exhaust. Easiest way is to take all the sparks out so that the engine turns more easily and turn the engine over from the crank bolt with a big breaker bar while someone places their finger over the spark hole on cylinder no 1, which is the one at the front of the engine to the right of the dizzy as you look at it from the front of the car.

When you feel the air being forced out the spark hole, then you know you are on the compression cycle. Then you will need a piston stop to check where TDC is on your crank pulley.

Before you pull the dizzy out, put some masking tape around the circumference of the dizzy inside cover, and mark where your rotor is pointing at TDC and when you pull the dizzy out, where the rotor arm turns to (about 15-20 deg) when you pull the dizzy out. When you put the dizzy back in, put the rotor arm in the second position, so that when you push it in, it turns back to TDC.

Also before you pull out the dizzy, stick some masking tape on a part of the engine that you can then draw a line towards where the vacuum housing is pointing to, and also any other part of the dizzy, so you can turn the dizzy body roughly to where it was to roughly set the timing.

I would then reset the timing properly with a strobe gun once you have the car running again.

[cinquecento]

There is no need to worry abt the timing as the cam chain sn't being removed..and there is a keyway so the pulley can only go back on the crankshaft nose in one location.

[Belle427]

If you turn the engine to tdc on the crank pulley it should point at no 1 plug lead,which is roughly at the 5 o clock position.
You can mark the distributor body/timing cover with white paint before removing, and make a mark too at roughly where the rotor arm points.
The crank pulley bolt will be tight, it makes the job a hell of a lot easier if your able to remove the y piece, cross member and swirlpot but not essential.
I would personally also remove the bonnet, its a lot easier being at the front of the car than reaching from the side, ive just done this again after my first gasket leaked!

[SwanJack]

Why did the first gasket start leaking? Anything to avoid?

[Belle427]

First time I used Hylomar on the gasket and surfaces and although its a great product I would not advise using it in this instance.
I also torqued the bolts to just under the specified book torque, and although it isn't high it felt like far too much to me. Second time round I did them by hand.
Have a look here for gasket ideas.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

[stevesprint]

Put a breaker bar on the crank nut like this with a 15/16 socket and crank the starter, works effortless everytime.

[SwanJack]

Ah, the redneck solution I saw on you tube! Seeing as you've recommended it, I feel vindicated to use it!

[stevesprint]

SwanJack said:

Ah, the redneck solution I saw on you tube! Seeing as you've recommended it, I feel vindicated to use it!

then select 1st gear and rock the car to rotate the engine back to TDC.

The engine doesn’t actually need to be at TDC to remove the distributor as long as you mark up the position of the rotor arm and distributor body and re-install in the same position, but is risky as that relies on the engine not rotating while the dizzy is out.

[Classic Chim]

stevesprint said:

Put a breaker bar on the crank nut like this with a 15/16 socket and crank the starter, works effortless everytime.

I like this tip a lot.
Are those pre cat manifolds, more power there straight way.

[jojackson4]

Just done the front cover
As above as long as you mark up the dizzi your good to go
Remove the front pulley before you do the dizz as you will turn the engine and screw your timing up
Don’t forget the crank seal when you have the cover off

[SwanJack]

All off with no issues, the timing chain cover gasket and the water pump gasket were rough. I phoned Rimmer Bros to buy some new gaskets, but they were no help whatsoever, which surprised me a bit. So, does anyone have part numbers for these two gaskets. Car's a 96 build 4.0 serpentine. Thanks.

[Belle427]

Try to go for quality gaskets, these are pretty good.

https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/gasket-front-cover-pe...

Britpart are not great but can’t see the gasket being too bad.

https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/water-pump-gasket-err...

Tvr parts also sell these, prices not too bad either.

https://tvr-parts.com/tvr-parts/part-details/tvr-e...

https://tvr-parts.com/tvr-parts/part-details/tvr-e...

[jojackson4]

Belle427 said:

Try to go for quality gaskets, these are pretty good.

https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/gasket-front-cover-pe...

Britpart are not great but can’t see the gasket being too bad.


Still haven’t got an email back from island 4x4 from the duff oil pump and crap front cover gasket
Will not be using them again

Ended up getting both from turner engineering
Both A1

https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/water-pump-gasket-err...

Tvr parts also sell these, prices not too bad either.

https://tvr-parts.com/tvr-parts/part-details/tvr-e...

https://tvr-parts.com/tvr-parts/part-details/tvr-e...

[SwanJack]

Cheers both!

[Belle427]

jojackson4 said:

Belle427 said:

Try to go for quality gaskets, these are pretty good.

https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/gasket-front-cover-pe...

Britpart are not great but can’t see the gasket being too bad.


Still haven’t got an email back from island 4x4 from the duff oil pump and crap front cover gasket
Will not be using them again

Ended up getting both from turner engineering
Both A1

https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/water-pump-gasket-err...

Tvr parts also sell these, prices not too bad either.

https://tvr-parts.com/tvr-parts/part-details/tvr-e...

https://tvr-parts.com/tvr-parts/part-details/tvr-e...

Possibly britpart gaskets?

[jojackson4]

Belle427 said:

Possibly britpart gaskets?

Possibly as it wasn’t badged up

The oil pump didn’t fit the front cover
Sent email 2times still no response
I think fkem springs to mind

[Sardonicus]

Look around some times you can get lucky and pick up genuine ones, always handy for stock anyway