Clutch Master Cylinder on 1994 4.00 Chimera.
Discussion
Having owned a 4.00 litre Chimera for several monthes(all of them trouble free), I was starting to think that perhaps the rumours of un reliability were un true. Unfortunately my clutch pedal suddenly developed a large amount of play and after consulting other drivers and Mr Heaths manual I decided that the master cylinder was in need of at least new seals.
Sounds easy in the book, but it has taken me several hours to diconect the cleavis pin and now am stuck again. Can anybody tell me how I can un do the the 2 bolts which hold the cylinder to the body.Seems impossible at first and second glance.
Once i have removed, can anybody tell me where I can get a new from. Thaks in anticipation
Sounds easy in the book, but it has taken me several hours to diconect the cleavis pin and now am stuck again. Can anybody tell me how I can un do the the 2 bolts which hold the cylinder to the body.Seems impossible at first and second glance.
Once i have removed, can anybody tell me where I can get a new from. Thaks in anticipation
If you just want to replace the seals then you don't need to remove the two bolts - just leave it all in place and pull the plunger and seals out from inside the car - I think there is probably a circlip that retains it in place.
I managed to remove the top bolt easily and the lower bolt could just about be reached using a socket, short extension, and a wobbly joint thing. I could only undo it about a tenth of a turn each time but once it's loose you can get you fingers in there.
I presume you have removed the access panel get to the two bolts.
Nick
I managed to remove the top bolt easily and the lower bolt could just about be reached using a socket, short extension, and a wobbly joint thing. I could only undo it about a tenth of a turn each time but once it's loose you can get you fingers in there.
I presume you have removed the access panel get to the two bolts.
Nick
I changed the seals on mine a while ago; I took the master cylinder out to do it.
I took out the drivers seat to create more room to lye in the foot well. Then got my brother to hold the bolts with a ratchet from inside the access hole under the bonnet, while i got in the footwall and undid the nuts with an other ratchet.
Its very uncomfortable and claustrophobic trying to work in the foot well and I’m quite skinny. If you’re a "large lad" then it might be a good idea to get someone else to do the work in the small space.
I took out the drivers seat to create more room to lye in the foot well. Then got my brother to hold the bolts with a ratchet from inside the access hole under the bonnet, while i got in the footwall and undid the nuts with an other ratchet.
Its very uncomfortable and claustrophobic trying to work in the foot well and I’m quite skinny. If you’re a "large lad" then it might be a good idea to get someone else to do the work in the small space.
radioheadnut said:
Unfortunately my clutch pedal suddenly developed a large amount of play and after consulting other drivers and Mr Heaths manual I decided that the master cylinder was in need of at least new seals.
Just a thought... I take that you are reasonably sure its not the slave cylinder thats the problem ( which would usuallly be associated with loss of fluid). Would be a shame to sweat over doing the master cyl only to find that the slave is the problem and which is so easily accessed!
Of the two the slave is more prone to failure being exposed to heat and the external environment.

Thanks for your help guy's. With a bit more effort managed to undo bolts. Seals well worn, spring broken in 2 and plunger bent! Time for a new one I think.
How much should I pay? One other small problem, how can I stop the heater returning to cold all the time? Bent card board works, but does not look too good!
Thanks again
How much should I pay? One other small problem, how can I stop the heater returning to cold all the time? Bent card board works, but does not look too good!
Thanks again
That sounds like fairly severe damage! Sounds as if the plunger was hitting the back of the master cylinder before the pedal reached its stop. Might be worth checking when it's all re-assembled - you don't want to have to do the job twice.
As far as I know there should be a little bit of free travel in the pedal in it's normal position.
Don't know about the heater - mine is sufficiently stiff to stay where it's set (and the wheel!).
Nick
As far as I know there should be a little bit of free travel in the pedal in it's normal position.
Don't know about the heater - mine is sufficiently stiff to stay where it's set (and the wheel!).
Nick
radioheadnut said:
Having owned a 4.00 litre Chimera for several monthes(all of them trouble free), I was starting to think that perhaps the rumours of un reliability were un true. Unfortunately my clutch pedal suddenly developed a large amount of play and after consulting other drivers and Mr Heaths manual I decided that the master cylinder was in need of at least new seals.
Sounds easy in the book, but it has taken me several hours to diconect the cleavis pin and now am stuck again. Can anybody tell me how I can un do the the 2 bolts which hold the cylinder to the body.Seems impossible at first and second glance.
Once i have removed, can anybody tell me where I can get a new from. Thaks in anticipation
Unreliabilty?!?!?! Clutch issues ON a 11 YEAR old car, and a powerful, lightweight one at that....
Absolutely shocking?!!!
Seriously what do you expect from an 11 year old car, not to replace some parts as they get old.
B
Your second question :-
"One other small problem, how can I stop the heater returning to cold all the time? Bent card board works, but does not look too good!"
Replace the thermostat if the water temp is not staying between 82 and 90degC. It's an 82deg stat with a large orifice.
Mike
"One other small problem, how can I stop the heater returning to cold all the time? Bent card board works, but does not look too good!"
Replace the thermostat if the water temp is not staying between 82 and 90degC. It's an 82deg stat with a large orifice.
Mike
Could be brake fluid.... sounds daft but both leaks could virtually overlap.
Try removing the inspection hatch under the bonnett and feel for the point of leak.. you can just about reach all around. Also check levels asap as may be a clear givaway.
If you need more access remove the bolts holding the peddel plate in (5 in total i think)and you can move the brake and clutch cylinders more for a better view.
fun fun fun
Try removing the inspection hatch under the bonnett and feel for the point of leak.. you can just about reach all around. Also check levels asap as may be a clear givaway.
If you need more access remove the bolts holding the peddel plate in (5 in total i think)and you can move the brake and clutch cylinders more for a better view.
fun fun fun
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