Help!!! I’m a numpty
Discussion
I was just completing the final fit on my ACT Tiwn plenum this morning. But when fitting the base plate, the hex socket is was using to torque them up, fell of the ratchet and fell down one of the trumpets. 
I’ve tried to locate it with a cheap boroscope, but can’t see anything in the inlet. Also tried using a magnet on a flexible handle,but no joy.
Any suggestions to get this out or at least locate it.
I’m not sure what the worse case scenario is here, but looks like I’ll need to remove the inlet manifold at least.
I’ve tried to locate it with a cheap boroscope, but can’t see anything in the inlet. Also tried using a magnet on a flexible handle,but no joy.
Any suggestions to get this out or at least locate it.
I’m not sure what the worse case scenario is here, but looks like I’ll need to remove the inlet manifold at least.
Bujjer, that's a bummer 
I'd keep trying with the magnet idea as inevitably one cylinder will be on the cam overlap meaning sucking will yield nothing.
Try a magnet on a length of string which will be way more effective than a magnet attached to even the most flexible rod, drop it in the same velocity stack you dropped the socket down and let it follow the same path down, theoretically after a few attempts it should end up next to the socket and you'll be able to pull it out with the magnet.
Good luck with it
I'd keep trying with the magnet idea as inevitably one cylinder will be on the cam overlap meaning sucking will yield nothing.
Try a magnet on a length of string which will be way more effective than a magnet attached to even the most flexible rod, drop it in the same velocity stack you dropped the socket down and let it follow the same path down, theoretically after a few attempts it should end up next to the socket and you'll be able to pull it out with the magnet.
Good luck with it
Well tried almost everything I can think off including the string and magnet idea and no sign of it yet. I think the magnet I’ve got is too big, so will try and get some smaller ones tomorrow. Not sure where from though?
If I can’t fish it out what’s the next step? Presumably I’ll need to remove the inlet manifold?
Can’t believe I did this, had the trumpets covered for the whole job and only removed the cover to fit the base. Next time I’ll tape them up. Also wouldn’t of happened if I’d used the correct socked extension instead the crap one I had lying around (now binned). Serves me right I suppose as I was rushing to get it finished to take advantage of the good weather today.
If I can’t fish it out what’s the next step? Presumably I’ll need to remove the inlet manifold?
Can’t believe I did this, had the trumpets covered for the whole job and only removed the cover to fit the base. Next time I’ll tape them up. Also wouldn’t of happened if I’d used the correct socked extension instead the crap one I had lying around (now binned). Serves me right I suppose as I was rushing to get it finished to take advantage of the good weather today.
angus337 said:
I was just completing the final fit on my ACT Tiwn plenum this morning. But when fitting the base plate, the hex socket is was using to torque them up, fell of the ratchet and fell down one of the trumpets.
I’ve tried to locate it with a cheap boroscope, but can’t see anything in the inlet. Also tried using a magnet on a flexible handle,but no joy.
Any suggestions to get this out or at least locate it.
I’m not sure what the worse case scenario is here, but looks like I’ll need to remove the inlet manifold at least.
Easy. Let gravity work for ya and turn the whole thing upside down I’ve tried to locate it with a cheap boroscope, but can’t see anything in the inlet. Also tried using a magnet on a flexible handle,but no joy.
Any suggestions to get this out or at least locate it.
I’m not sure what the worse case scenario is here, but looks like I’ll need to remove the inlet manifold at least.
I’d imagine the offending socket has rolled until a stop leaning on or near the inlet valve in side the head port.
Scalextric cars ( model shop) small bag of magnets for a few quid, or bend one of those magnetic telescopic screwdriver things to shape and feed it down there.
Just thinking aloud.
If it’s got wedged I think your looking at inlet manifold removal to retrieve it but do try every other conceivable idea first.
Which runner did it go down ?
The 4 centre trumpets feed that corresponding valve but the outside 4 are fed by the opposing trumpet, something like this. Same at the back two pots.
Scalextric cars ( model shop) small bag of magnets for a few quid, or bend one of those magnetic telescopic screwdriver things to shape and feed it down there.
Just thinking aloud.
If it’s got wedged I think your looking at inlet manifold removal to retrieve it but do try every other conceivable idea first.
Which runner did it go down ?
The 4 centre trumpets feed that corresponding valve but the outside 4 are fed by the opposing trumpet, something like this. Same at the back two pots.
If you remove the spring steel from the back of a wiper blade, you could strap a magnet to that as its very flexible- personally Id heats shrink and superglue the magnet to the spring steel so it so it wont come off. I can see string ending in tears if it breaks and you end up with two bits of metal in the manifold. You can get super strong magnets out of old PC hard drives if you have any IT scrap laying around.
Thanks for all the suggestions guys.
I did look at removing the trumpet base for easier access, but access to the Hex bolts is limited due to the flare of the trumpets. I could cut down an allan key, but not sure how much withdrawal space is required to get the bolts out. I dond really want to separate the trumpets from the base if possible.
I’ve got hold of a few different magnets, some really flexible braded wire and light weight cord. So plan to have another go at fishing it out tonight. If I can’t get it out I’ll remove the injectors and see what I can see with the borescope from the injector port, which should at least identify where it is.
If this fails looks like I’ll have to start removing the inlet manifold. If I go down this route then it seems sensible to remove the valley gasket and inspect the Cam etc.
I did look at removing the trumpet base for easier access, but access to the Hex bolts is limited due to the flare of the trumpets. I could cut down an allan key, but not sure how much withdrawal space is required to get the bolts out. I dond really want to separate the trumpets from the base if possible.
I’ve got hold of a few different magnets, some really flexible braded wire and light weight cord. So plan to have another go at fishing it out tonight. If I can’t get it out I’ll remove the injectors and see what I can see with the borescope from the injector port, which should at least identify where it is.
If this fails looks like I’ll have to start removing the inlet manifold. If I go down this route then it seems sensible to remove the valley gasket and inspect the Cam etc.
I doubt removing the injectors will allow you to see it unless it has fallen inside the cylinder, which would mean you have been super unlucky. (would it even fit through a valve?)
Good luck with the fishing, but if it doesn't work, it really isn't a huge amount of work to remove the inlet manifold and as you say, it is then easy to look at the cam.
Good luck with the fishing, but if it doesn't work, it really isn't a huge amount of work to remove the inlet manifold and as you say, it is then easy to look at the cam.
I wouldn't have any concerns with the string method, it's not like you're putting it under any strain... and only an idiot wouldn't tie it off properly.
What you are trying to achieve is a reenactment of the socket incident using a magnet, select a strong neodymium magnet the same size, shape and weight as your lost socket, drop it down the same velocity stack you stand a very good chance of your magnet finding it's way to where the socket ended up.
This is why string or fishing line would be best as it's far more flexible than any rod, it will therefore allow the magnet to fall naturally in the same way as the socket did, choose a magnet with a hole through the middle so you can tie securely through its centre, if you tie off as an open loop the magnet can also roll just as the socket did.
https://www.first4magnets.com/circular-disc-rod-ma...
Happy fishing.
What you are trying to achieve is a reenactment of the socket incident using a magnet, select a strong neodymium magnet the same size, shape and weight as your lost socket, drop it down the same velocity stack you stand a very good chance of your magnet finding it's way to where the socket ended up.
This is why string or fishing line would be best as it's far more flexible than any rod, it will therefore allow the magnet to fall naturally in the same way as the socket did, choose a magnet with a hole through the middle so you can tie securely through its centre, if you tie off as an open loop the magnet can also roll just as the socket did.
https://www.first4magnets.com/circular-disc-rod-ma...
Happy fishing.
managed to find a couple of small versions of these on a notice bard at work which are roughly the same diameter as the socket. magnet seems pretty striong so will hopefully do the trick.
BTW waht material are the valves and guides made of. Just wondered if there was anything else magnetic in there.
BTW waht material are the valves and guides made of. Just wondered if there was anything else magnetic in there.
angus337 said:
managed to find a couple of small versions of these on a notice bard at work which are roughly the same diameter as the socket. magnet seems pretty striong so will hopefully do the trick.
BTW waht material are the valves and guides made of. Just wondered if there was anything else magnetic in there.
A 12" tie wrap wont come off and is flexible and easily bendable BTW waht material are the valves and guides made of. Just wondered if there was anything else magnetic in there.
Sounds utterly frustrating.
I watched an recovery mechanic do basically the same with a stubby screwdriver and the boost pipe on one of my parents car, between the turbo and cooler, you could physically see him thinking that if I hadn't see it he would have left it in there! Got to feel for the bloke, he had already said his shift had run out and it was another 30mins round trip to get it out.
Daniel
I watched an recovery mechanic do basically the same with a stubby screwdriver and the boost pipe on one of my parents car, between the turbo and cooler, you could physically see him thinking that if I hadn't see it he would have left it in there! Got to feel for the bloke, he had already said his shift had run out and it was another 30mins round trip to get it out.
Daniel
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