Mk1 to Mk2 roof seals - pics of metal rail position?
Discussion
I bought a kit from a roof specialist in Blackpool around 9 months ago to convert my Mk1 (glued rubber seal) to Mk2 (screwed rail with slide in rubber seal). There were some rudimentary drawings with the kit of rail-to-seal orientation. But there were no drawings/pics/instructions on rail-to-roof orientation.
Would some kind soul be able to take a picture of their roof panel looking end-on to the rail and seal? Or provide instructions as to where the rail sits?
Ta in advance.
Would some kind soul be able to take a picture of their roof panel looking end-on to the rail and seal? Or provide instructions as to where the rail sits?
Ta in advance.
I’m such a kind soul 
N/S (passenger) rear
N/S front
The rail sits flush with the front and back edge of ledge it sits on.
Drill positions as seen
This is a replacement hood.
You’ll notice a thin rubber seal that’s glued along the rail that the roof material beds upto or it does on mine. 2000 year car
N/S (passenger) rear
N/S front
The rail sits flush with the front and back edge of ledge it sits on.
Drill positions as seen
This is a replacement hood.
You’ll notice a thin rubber seal that’s glued along the rail that the roof material beds upto or it does on mine. 2000 year car
echazfraz said:
Cheers - I don't have the rubber strip between rail and roof, I was told to use washers there to pack the rail out so that the seal meets the windows. I can see this being a faff but made all the easier with your pics. Thanks again
If you pack the rail out it will leak into the car unless you can seal that gap. Mine look to be screwed directly to roof and the slide in rubber deep enough to seal against fully closed window. I’d put the roof in place and offer up the rail with gasket and see if it will reach window glass. Earlier roofs might be different though.
I was a window fixer for many years on high rise buildings, you need to seal that edge or water will enter the car at that point. It pinches the roof material so that probably makes a decent seal but I’d still use a thin bead of mastic once I’m happy it all fits, personally.
That’s what the little rubber gaskets job does on my car.
Door shut lines are important here as a few mm out or low will be enough to bugger up that sealing effect. Adjust the door rather than the rail if this is the case. Goodluck.
Classic Chim said:
If you pack the rail out it will leak into the car unless you can seal that gap.
Mine look to be screwed directly to roof and the slide in rubber deep enough to seal against fully closed window. I’d put the roof in place and offer up the rail with gasket and see if it will reach window glass. Earlier roofs might be different though.
I was a window fixer for many years on high rise buildings, you need to seal that edge or water will enter the car at that point. It pinches the roof material so that probably makes a decent seal but I’d still use a thin bead of mastic once I’m happy it all fits, personally.
That’s what the little rubber gaskets job does on my car.
Door shut lines are important here as a few mm out or low will be enough to bugger up that sealing effect. Adjust the door rather than the rail if this is the case. Goodluck.
Thank you again for all of the advice. N/S window seals perfectly currently and the window top and roof/seal are all parallel to each other, which is nice. The O/S is a different kettle of monkeys though, gap of nearly 10mm between the forwardmost part of the window top edge and seal, and at the rear the window edge is so high that it catches the roof material and leaves a gap along the back of the window and the folding roof seal. Mine look to be screwed directly to roof and the slide in rubber deep enough to seal against fully closed window. I’d put the roof in place and offer up the rail with gasket and see if it will reach window glass. Earlier roofs might be different though.
I was a window fixer for many years on high rise buildings, you need to seal that edge or water will enter the car at that point. It pinches the roof material so that probably makes a decent seal but I’d still use a thin bead of mastic once I’m happy it all fits, personally.
That’s what the little rubber gaskets job does on my car.
Door shut lines are important here as a few mm out or low will be enough to bugger up that sealing effect. Adjust the door rather than the rail if this is the case. Goodluck.
And to cap it all off the leak that I have into both footwells is nothing to do with windows and roof as it happens when the tonneau cover's on anyway.
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