Garage find Chim to track day
Discussion
Well, sort of... not really.
The car has been sat in the garage since November, I haven't had a chance to get it out. What prep work do you recommend for its first track day? it already has uprated breaks and had all fluids changed a few years ago (< 500 miles ago).
I'm going to the no noise limits track day at Rockingham. and have the following planned.
- Cut the exhaust off at the "Y" piece (No noise limits... right?)
- Oil change with filter
- Coolant flush and change
- Check tyre pressures
Might wash the dust off it. And if I can, take it to work for a couple of shakedown runs.
What tools should I take?
The car has been sat in the garage since November, I haven't had a chance to get it out. What prep work do you recommend for its first track day? it already has uprated breaks and had all fluids changed a few years ago (< 500 miles ago).
I'm going to the no noise limits track day at Rockingham. and have the following planned.
- Cut the exhaust off at the "Y" piece (No noise limits... right?)
- Oil change with filter
- Coolant flush and change
- Check tyre pressures
Might wash the dust off it. And if I can, take it to work for a couple of shakedown runs.
What tools should I take?
TV8 said:
Prizam said:
I'm going to the no noise limits track day at Rockingham. and have the following planned.
- Cut the exhaust off at the "Y" piece (No noise limits... right?)
Your car etc but that will be seriously noisy and possibly not in the spirit of what the organisers had in mind!- Cut the exhaust off at the "Y" piece (No noise limits... right?)
Breaks... They are fine, all new including fluid a couple of years ago.
Clutch fluid... probably a good idea. Never ventured under the glued in little bump.
Given how cheap a complete fluid change is then I would suggest doing all of them. Oil, brakes, clutch and coolant.
How old are the tyres? Anything over 4 years and they'll be rubbish on the track.
Give your air filter a clean.
How old are the HT leads, dizzy cap and rotor arm?
Off to Snetterton tomorrow for a TD.
How old are the tyres? Anything over 4 years and they'll be rubbish on the track.
Give your air filter a clean.
How old are the HT leads, dizzy cap and rotor arm?
Off to Snetterton tomorrow for a TD.
If the cars been stood as others have said brake fluid wants a quick flush through as that will be what cause of most brake fade/ failure.
This is number one problem for occasional trackday users and recently one Tvr had its rear end removed by another Tvr too close that had apparent ( complete brake failure)
Brakes don’t just fail or we’d all be in trouble.
Nearly every person who has mentioned this is likely to have experienced it especially with road based brakes as they are not capable of more than a few good stops before fading and getting the long pedal syndrome.
This is number one problem for occasional trackday users and recently one Tvr had its rear end removed by another Tvr too close that had apparent ( complete brake failure)
Brakes don’t just fail or we’d all be in trouble.
Nearly every person who has mentioned this is likely to have experienced it especially with road based brakes as they are not capable of more than a few good stops before fading and getting the long pedal syndrome.
what everyone has said. brake fluid is hydroscopic and slowly absorbs moisture over time which lowers the boiling point.
change the brake fluid and also make sure the pads have plenty of life left.
on my first track day back in the dark ages my brake fluid boiled with the resulting in complete brake failure...I only just missed the chimera in front of me.
on the day always do a gentle cool down lap or two at the end of the session and never put the hand brake on in the paddock.
change the brake fluid and also make sure the pads have plenty of life left.
on my first track day back in the dark ages my brake fluid boiled with the resulting in complete brake failure...I only just missed the chimera in front of me.
on the day always do a gentle cool down lap or two at the end of the session and never put the hand brake on in the paddock.
Tools wise, take a sensible set of fuses, relays and tie wraps. Sockets/spanners to fit most common sizes and one for wheels. Screwdrivers. Duck tape. Pliers. Hammer if you are like me....COs I like them.
Prep wise I would add check seatbelt and seat mounts, and gear stick mounts/linkage. It is funny how physical you become once on track and will exert more on the control surfaces. I would also check over the coolant system as this will take a beating in the heat and on track, fans working, flushed, full and no leaks.
I would also add make sure you are up to it. Jokes aside, it is hot and you will need fluids.
Prep wise I would add check seatbelt and seat mounts, and gear stick mounts/linkage. It is funny how physical you become once on track and will exert more on the control surfaces. I would also check over the coolant system as this will take a beating in the heat and on track, fans working, flushed, full and no leaks.
I would also add make sure you are up to it. Jokes aside, it is hot and you will need fluids.
QBee said:
Put in dot 4 High temperature brake fluid. Rockingham has loads of bends, including a couple of hard braking corners. This is what happens if you boil your brakes.....
Thanks, a little bit of poo came out just looking at that pic. I'm treating Rockingham like a fast road day and not a track/race day. ( i do have a race licence, so hopefully not completely useless).At the end of the day, I want to cruise home and wash the flies off.
Oil - Done. Comma 5w50. Was fine
Filter- Done, last changed with oil in 2015 (About 2k ago). Was fine
Coolant - Done, last changed in 2015. Comma blue stuff, extra cool. something something...
Clutch fluid - So glad someone mentioned this. Must have been the original fluid. Black, bits in it... then white and milky. now changed and the clutch is much better! lighter and more progressive. So, a big thanks to whoever mentioned this one!
Brakes - New fluid, last changed 2 years ago and about 500 miles ago. It was fine.
Notes - Made a little coolant re-fill a ma jig. Makes the process a bit easier. The new oil must be a bit thinner as pressure reads slightly lower. Between 50psi idle and 60psi on a run. the shakedown testing I did took it to over 10,000 miles!
mk1fan said:
Good progress.
How old are the tyres?
Rears are a year old.How old are the tyres?
Fronts are probably about 10 years old... they do have some cracking starting. They feel fine on the road and didn't blow out during testing. So reluctant to replace if I can avoid it.
What pressures should I run for tack?
Jhonno said:
[quote=Prizam
Fronts are probably about 10 years old... they do have some cracking starting. They feel fine on the road and didn't blow out during testing. So reluctant to replace if I can avoid it.
Replace them straight away! They are shot.Fronts are probably about 10 years old... they do have some cracking starting. They feel fine on the road and didn't blow out during testing. So reluctant to replace if I can avoid it.
There is no definitive tyre age limit as to when you should replace your tyres but if your tyres are older than 5 years old, you should keep a close eye on their condition and consider replacing them. Tyre ageing is commonly identified by small cracks, known as crazing, which appear in the tyre sidewall.
Just curious how did you test the brake fluid quality? Please don't say it looked OK if it's 2 years old it's done,. Of course you could leave it but seeing as new fluid prolongs seal life and you don't want the brake master cylinder leaking fluid into the brake servo chamber, ill presume you know these are now a kings ransom ? Mileage on brake fluid is irrelevant
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