Discussion
Ladies and Gents,
Just a quick question, ive not long been a Chimaera owner and know they have a tendancy to get a little warm inside the car, BUT..
Ive noticed the temperature control seems to have no affect on the temperature coming out of the vents..
Basically Hot..or HOT.. (with no noticably difference)
The car's got Air-con but this is without moving the dial right to the point the Air-con triggers..
Any thoughts on this 'heated' issue?
Whats the norm?
cheers,
Nick
Just a quick question, ive not long been a Chimaera owner and know they have a tendancy to get a little warm inside the car, BUT..
Ive noticed the temperature control seems to have no affect on the temperature coming out of the vents..
Basically Hot..or HOT.. (with no noticably difference)
The car's got Air-con but this is without moving the dial right to the point the Air-con triggers..
Any thoughts on this 'heated' issue?
Whats the norm?
cheers,
Nick
You can have a similar problem with griffs.Although i used to own a chimaera,i dont know what the heater valve set up is like,but i know its different to the griff.On the griffs the problem can be easily cured by syncrinising the heater valve,so that when the control knob is set to cold,the valve allowing coolant to flow through the matrix,is fully shut.This makes one hell of a difference,and many drive around in their cars,putting up with the problem,as they dont realise that it can be adjusted.It also allows the air-con to be properly cold.A similar sycronisation process can surely be done on the chimaera?Someone on hear will know

mongoose said:
You can have a similar problem with griffs.Although i used to own a chimaera,i dont know what the heater valve set up is like,but i know its different to the griff.On the griffs the problem can be easily cured by syncrinising the heater valve,so that when the control knob is set to cold,the valve allowing coolant to flow through the matrix,is fully shut.This makes one hell of a difference,and many drive around in their cars,putting up with the problem,as they dont realise that it can be adjusted.It also allows the air-con to be properly cold.A similar sycronisation process can surely be done on the chimaera?Someone on hear will know
Yeah i think the griff is electronic and the Chimaera is cable operated.
Either way im sure the principal remains the same since the valve will operate the same way.
With regards to a cold air blower, Jimothy i was wondering about those but i dont believe my '98 450 has one..
cheers,
Nick
mongoose said:
You can have a similar problem with griffs.Although i used to own a chimaera,i dont know what the heater valve set up is like,but i know its different to the griff.On the griffs the problem can be easily cured by syncrinising the heater valve,so that when the control knob is set to cold,the valve allowing coolant to flow through the matrix,is fully shut.This makes one hell of a difference,and many drive around in their cars,putting up with the problem,as they dont realise that it can be adjusted.It also allows the air-con to be properly cold.A similar sycronisation process can surely be done on the chimaera?Someone on hear will know
Yeah i think the griff is electronic and the Chimaera is cable operated.
Either way im sure the principal remains the same since the valve will operate the same way.
With regards to a cold air blower, Jimothy i was wondering about those but i dont believe my '98 450 has one..
cheers,
Nick
Correct, the valve is a standard VW part. Seems like earlier cars had a bypass valve additionally in the circuit which works well - I dont think the heater valve is able to close fully against the full flow of the water pump (particularly before the stat opens) and needs some help - dont know how this is managed in later cars.
I found the air going in to the ventilation was being heated in the wings due to the proximity of the manifolds / poor insulation - much better after ceramic coating.
Dave
I found the air going in to the ventilation was being heated in the wings due to the proximity of the manifolds / poor insulation - much better after ceramic coating.
Dave
There are a few old threads about adjusting the heating system valve to turn off the water supply to the cabin heater. Make sure this is correct first. Problem is also that air intake is so close to engine bay (in front wing) that warm air is blown in.
Have often thought about wiring an override switch for the aircon (two way switch, normal i.e. original mode vs overide i.e. on).... admittedly we're talking for rainy days (temperature control for any other being wear more/less clothes!). Often aircon is too cold, even with fan turned off, and min. heat setting (aircon just off) is too warm.
What would happen if aircon was used with heating turned up? If there is a point at which it's not advisable to run both at what point can the system cope?
I presume with aircon on there's warm water running through the system and the aircon provides additional cooling to the system. What's to stop you heating the cooled air apart from using up more energy (and let's face it with a V8 burbling away it's not exactly a green system to start with!)
MC
Have often thought about wiring an override switch for the aircon (two way switch, normal i.e. original mode vs overide i.e. on).... admittedly we're talking for rainy days (temperature control for any other being wear more/less clothes!). Often aircon is too cold, even with fan turned off, and min. heat setting (aircon just off) is too warm.
What would happen if aircon was used with heating turned up? If there is a point at which it's not advisable to run both at what point can the system cope?
I presume with aircon on there's warm water running through the system and the aircon provides additional cooling to the system. What's to stop you heating the cooled air apart from using up more energy (and let's face it with a V8 burbling away it's not exactly a green system to start with!)
MC
MajorClanger said:Sorry,didnt realise how the chim a/c worked like that(my old one didnt have a/c).In the griff,theyre indipendant of each other,so you can have it on whilst hot.Shouldnt be too difficult to make an a/c on and off switch for the chim though id have thought.
mongoose said:
Theres nothing wrong with running the aircon with heat,infact its great for de-misting
Do you have an override switch? I realise that you can turn the heat up a little to the point just before the A/C turns off, but that's normally not enough.
MC
david beer said:Don't know how the A/C works on earlier cars but on later models (mine's 98), there's only one temperature control (the heat control dial) plus the fan on/off/speed control, the A/C recirculation control and the heater direction control. There's no separate A/C on/off. Instead, the heat control dial is connected to the heating water circulation valve. At its extremity (cold) it moves a switch to activate the A/C. There's about a 1cm range over which the A/C is on.
Air con should be available regardless of heater temp, if not then a mod is required. Of course if you drive in less than 4c all the time then no mod is required !
Trick is, when lid is on! to move dial to as cold as possible without turning A/C on, or to as warm as possible without turning A/C off!!!... whilst practising power slides!!!
David, you're the electrical expert... how many wires do you need to set up an override to:
a) have A/C working as original, plus
b) override to turn on A/C all the time, plus
c) override to turn off A/C all the time?
...along with indicator LED to show if A/C is on.
I make it one extra wire with a three way/position switch. Can you think of another way? Is there such a thing as a push button 3 way switch i.e. that cycles through the contacts? And if Leven could come up with a switch button (with a snowflake on it, preferably with LED light surround like hazard indicators) to match the rest we're sorted!!!
MC
PS Is your www.Mod-Wise.com site likely to be back with us soon?
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