Bonnet & Radiator Grill
Discussion
Finally got round to doing this, but not sure about it, what does everyone think?
Remember it was thought about as I had a stone go through the headlamp 2 weeks after I bought the car and wanted to protect the radiator. The numberplate will cover most of the bottom opening.
M@H thought about your method, but realised that you need to get into this area for maintenance, so made this so that it can be removed, just got to work out how to fix it if I keep it.
Also while I was in there found these 2 connections sticking out the loom. Anyone any idea what they could be four? unfortunately shows up all the stone chips as well
Remember it was thought about as I had a stone go through the headlamp 2 weeks after I bought the car and wanted to protect the radiator. The numberplate will cover most of the bottom opening.
M@H thought about your method, but realised that you need to get into this area for maintenance, so made this so that it can be removed, just got to work out how to fix it if I keep it.
Also while I was in there found these 2 connections sticking out the loom. Anyone any idea what they could be four? unfortunately shows up all the stone chips as well
I tried the earlier method of sticking grill in with mastic but just could not get whole grill to stick vdespite spending approx 6 hrs on job in total. Previous posting quoted 30 mins for whole job but I can only think he had rad removed at time. I would be interested in how you made frame and how you fixed grill in as I really think grill essential
Ron
Ron
Before going to too much expense/time on installing the grill and fabricating a surround I'd be inclined to jury rig it where it is and drive it through a range of conditions low speed, high speed, traffic on a hot day etc to see what effect that mesh has on airflow through the radiator. It think it could be significant.
razorman said:I found some 'spare' connectors at the front of the car and asked the dealer. Their reply (apart from 'they all have them like that sir'!) was that TVR use a 'standard', commercial wiring loom. End result is that there are a few wires/connectors spare which are normally tucked away out of sight. If alarm siren and temperature warning light are working OK then could be spare... for the neon light body kits!!!
Also while I was in there found these 2 connections sticking out the loom. Anyone any idea what they could be four [sic]?
MC
tvron said:
I tried the earlier method of sticking grill in with mastic but just could not get whole grill to stick vdespite spending approx 6 hrs on job in total. Previous posting quoted 30 mins for whole job but I can only think he had rad removed at time. I would be interested in how you made frame and how you fixed grill in as I really think grill essential
Ron
As I said earlier, I thought it best not to mastic the grill in as you need to get in there for maintenance...air filter etc. So I made a template out of thick cardboard and then used it to cut a piece of the mesh (slightly smaller)to fit in the hole. This obviously left sharp edges, so I bought some clear silicon tubing, split it and fed the edges of the mesh in. So I now have a shaped grill with the edges protected so that it won't scratch the bodywork. So far to stop it moving backwards I have used some clear self adhesive door protectors. Just got to work out how to stop it coming forward although it is quite a tight fit.
The beauty is for maintenance or if I don't like it it takes seconds to remove.
>> Edited by razorman on Tuesday 17th May 12:40
MajorClanger said:
Their reply (apart from 'they all have them like that sir'!) was that TVR use a 'standard', commercial wiring loom. MC
I know very little about cars, but I had read in "the bible" that TVR made their own wiring looms and that's why I thought that they should be connected to something?
tvron said:
I tried the earlier method of sticking grill in with mastic but just could not get whole grill to stick vdespite spending approx 6 hrs on job in total. Previous posting quoted 30 mins for whole job but I can only think he had rad removed at time.
Sorry you had problems but the rad etc was all in place and it really was a quick job:
Remove horn, trim mesh to about 1" bigger than the aperture, slide mesh into nosecone (sideways, right corner in first, then left).. leave mesh in bottom of nosecone whilst adding a bead of silicone onto the inside edge of the aperture, pull mesh up against the silicone with some wire (and attach wire to some pencils or similar across the front of the aperture to hold it in place).. then replace the horn, leave overnight to cure.
As it was all quite quick and easy I thought I'd just re-do it at service intervals to clean the air filter, that way I'll also ensure that its not coming loose and I'm not noticing it.
Hi razorman, glad to read you've got it sorted out
..the only bit of caution I'd throw in regarding your installation is that if the mesh is up against the back edge of the aperture, it sits at quite an angle of some 30-35 degrees:
..as opposed to yours which is straight upright:
The thing with the mesh though is that it is fairly transparent (i.e. low wind resistance) when set at an angle as in my installation, however with the mesh vertical you have a lot more wind resistance (hence the front looks more "shiny" so you'll be restricting the airflow to the rad a bit.
Other than that, good effort
>> Edited by M@H on Wednesday 18th May 12:10
..the only bit of caution I'd throw in regarding your installation is that if the mesh is up against the back edge of the aperture, it sits at quite an angle of some 30-35 degrees:
..as opposed to yours which is straight upright:
The thing with the mesh though is that it is fairly transparent (i.e. low wind resistance) when set at an angle as in my installation, however with the mesh vertical you have a lot more wind resistance (hence the front looks more "shiny" so you'll be restricting the airflow to the rad a bit.
Other than that, good effort
>> Edited by M@H on Wednesday 18th May 12:10
I'd agree with you there.. my primary goal was with the bonnet vents to stop the leaves falling in, then the radiator protection, and I must say that having had them on the car for a while, its almost like they "should" be there.. otherwise you've just got the holes which look a bit bare. 
Anyone at Le Mans should find my car in the Houx Campsite if you want a closer look
Anyone at Le Mans should find my car in the Houx Campsite if you want a closer look
MajorClanger said:
Interesting comparison of just how much 'blockage' there is with different mesh sizes and configurations here.
Anything from 27% to 64% open area (73% - 36% blockage)
MC
Very interesting, it's difficult to say without seeing actual samples, but I would imaging that the one I used was nearest the one that allowed 67% through.
Out of interest I know the earlier Chims had the grill, which must have stopped as much airflow as my proposal if not more. Does anyone know if the grill was ommited because of an overheating problem or just because it was difficult to fit one with the change in design of the front?
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