Rear diff removal help needed.

[DAVID-gffe0]

I am in the process of removing the rear diff and need to know the following if possible. I have removed most things.
1) I cannot undo the rear propshaft nuts and bolts. There is not enough room to get a ring spanner over them and with an open ended spanner it has just started to slip so I have stopped. Is there an easy way of doing this?
2) can the prop stay on for now and be removed with the diff so when diff removed splines slide out of gear box end? So diff and prop come out as one? can then get better access to prop bolts once clear of the car.
3) the two side diff brackets, I can undo the rear to front longitudinal bolts and also the four nuts (2 on each bracket) but I cannot seem to remove the 4 Allen headed bolts. (Are these threaded in or just need tapping out) As I can remove the two long bolts which go through the side bushes can the diff be removed with brackets still attached. I understand you have to tilt diff on its side, will there be enough room with brackets attached

Thanks in advance for any help.

[LeeHodges]

Hi

I feel your pain. I had the same issue with the heads rounding. In the end, I removed the side brackets and took out the diff with the prop attached. I then took an angle grinder to the remaining bolts.



I can't say if you'd have enough space with the brackets on; I guess you may run out of 'twist' room to get the thing out?

[Jobster]

Post suggests body-off. Is it even possible with body-on?

[LeeHodges]

Jobster said:

Post suggests body-off. Is it even possible with body-on?

I don't see why not; when mine came out with the prop attached, the prop didn't raise through / above the chassis, so I can't see the body being on as a factor. I am happy to be contradicted, however.

[TJC46]

DAVID-gffe0 said:

I am in the process of removing the rear diff and need to know the following if possible. I have removed most things.
1) I cannot undo the rear propshaft nuts and bolts. There is not enough room to get a ring spanner over them and with an open ended spanner it has just started to slip so I have stopped. Is there an easy way of doing this?
2) can the prop stay on for now and be removed with the diff so when diff removed splines slide out of gear box end? So diff and prop come out as one? can then get better access to prop bolts once clear of the car.
3) the two side diff brackets, I can undo the rear to front longitudinal bolts and also the four nuts (2 on each bracket) but I cannot seem to remove the 4 Allen headed bolts. (Are these threaded in or just need tapping out) As I can remove the two long bolts which go through the side bushes can the diff be removed with brackets still attached. I understand you have to tilt diff on its side, will there be enough room with brackets attached

Thanks in advance for any help.

Just in the process of putting mine back in, for the 2nd time. I will answer assuming the body Is this still in situ, and not a bare chassis ?

Propshaft needs to be removed im afraid !

1] The bolt head should be on the propshaft flange, and the nut on the back of diff flange.
If correct you can just get a ring spanner on the nut. You may have to spin the prop around a little to get the perfect position, and you must come back to this point for each of the four nuts.
You need what i call a shouldered socket for the bolt head. These type either taper from front to back, or are narrower at the opposite end to the square drive contact point with the ratchet.

2] The allen headed bolts are threaded, and you cannot remove the diff with the brackets still attached.
You can purchase 2 new brackets for a reasonable sum, so if you have to destroy anything then these brackets are a good choice.

Diff needs turning through 90 degrees to remove, and be careful as it is quite heavy.

When you eventually drop the diff replace the bushes with poly ones, if not all 3 then at least the rear one ease to change in the future.

Edited by TJC46 on Thursday 21st March 16:52

[DAVID-gffe0]

Hi, thanks very much for the prompt replies. Slight difference of opinion as to whether prop actually can come out with diff. My body is still on do if anyone has removed diff/prop together then please let me know, as this would save a huge amount of hassle.
Glad to hear a ring spanner will fit but mine are quite thick so will have to try and source a thinner ringed one. Yes I know what you mean about a shouldered socket and again haven't got one but may be able to adapt something.
Just to double clarify though, the allen headed bolts for the brackets are you saying that even with the nuts off they are still threaded into brackets so they still have to be screwed out as opposed to pushed out. Likewise with the prop bolts/nuts with nuts off can bolts be pushed out or screwed out. Thanks

[LeeHodges]

DAVID-gffe0 said:

Just to double clarify though, the allen headed bolts for the brackets are you saying that even with the nuts off they are still threaded into brackets so they still have to be screwed out as opposed to pushed out. Likewise with the prop bolts/nuts with nuts off can bolts be pushed out or screwed out. Thanks

Yes, the bolts that go through the brackets into the front of the diff are threaded and have nuts on the back for extra grip. When (if!) the nuts come off of the four prop bolts they push out.



ps, this is for a BTR diff, if that makes any difference

[DAVID-gffe0]

Excellent, thanks for all your help, I will try again tomorrow

[TJC46]

LeeHodges said:

Yes, the bolts that go through the brackets into the front of the diff are threaded and have nuts on the back for extra grip. When (if!) the nuts come off of the four prop bolts they push out.



ps, this is for a BTR diff, if that makes any difference

As above, but just to clarify.

They are just holes in the diff brackets, the thread is in the 4 holes in the diff, and you DO NOT want to damage the threads in the diff.

[Moose v8]

Not a nice job I have just removed my diff 92 plate Griff. Driveshafts and carriers off. Front diff mounting bolts removed , the Allen bolts used 3/8 SOCKET with short extension and strong bar , regarding prop bolts once diff carrier bolts removed from bushes allows diff to drop slightly at a angle I used a 6 sided socket on front and 14 mm spanner on nut turned prop so spanner wedged against frame , access from o/s carefully slide foot on ratchet more force than hand bingo cracked bolts did the job bit crude. Space is at a premium. Rear bush bolt. Long bar with socket if you lived nearby would be willing to help another Trevor owner. Good luck

[phazed]

Just to add, the prop bolts and nuts are 9/16 AF not 14mm.

Use the correct tool and it will fit better

[wuckfitracing]

You can buy the correct socket extension to remove the prop bolts. It’s also used for Landrovers. Saves rounding the bolt heads off.

[wuckfitracing]

[phazed]

I've got that. Didn't know it fitted!

[TwinKam]

wuckfitracing said:

Less than half that (delivered) on the bay...

[DAVID-gffe0]

Thanks I will see what I can adapt first.
If anyone is interested though I am filming this for a video on youtube, search "living with a tvr Chimaera" and it should come up. As soon as I have removed the diff I will update the video.
I am absolutely useless with computers so when I work out how to put a link in for the video I will let you know...

[Dalamar]

Great work on those videos you are doing! I’m finding them very useful as I’m doing similar suspension work to my car at the moment.