Discussion
Silicone.
Use the method as described by Phazed in the thread below. I would also add, make sure your sump is flat applying a little panel beating round the bolt holes checking with a straight edge to get the face as level as possible.
You might also want to consider a reinforcing strip for the back 2 bolt holes as supplied by Rimmers.... https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-603943
Sealing the sump......
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Use the method as described by Phazed in the thread below. I would also add, make sure your sump is flat applying a little panel beating round the bolt holes checking with a straight edge to get the face as level as possible.
You might also want to consider a reinforcing strip for the back 2 bolt holes as supplied by Rimmers.... https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-603943
Sealing the sump......
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
I was having leak problems, but they turned out to be hole surrounds that were proud of the surface of the sump (as mentioned above), which left too big a gap for the sealant to bridge.
When my TVR guy took the sump off, having seen where it leaked, he spotted the non-flat surface of the sump and ground it smooth and flat, before going belt and braces with Phazed style sealant AND a paper gasket (well, that's what it looked like).
He normally only uses sealant, but was determined to stop the leak once and for all.
So no more automatic chassis protection system.....and no more black patches on the drive either.
When my TVR guy took the sump off, having seen where it leaked, he spotted the non-flat surface of the sump and ground it smooth and flat, before going belt and braces with Phazed style sealant AND a paper gasket (well, that's what it looked like).
He normally only uses sealant, but was determined to stop the leak once and for all.
So no more automatic chassis protection system.....and no more black patches on the drive either.
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