Plug lead heat boots ?
Discussion
Hi all I’ve read loads on here about leads , the OE Beru metal extenders , MSD leads and Ceramic etc....
But....car runs fine looks like leads are fairly new (car new to me) but running the metal extenders , so without changing the leads would there be any benefit to removing the extenders putting lead boot straight to spark plug and fitting the heat socks ? As these heat boots/socks can be purchased for about £20 now and rated to 1800 degrees
But....car runs fine looks like leads are fairly new (car new to me) but running the metal extenders , so without changing the leads would there be any benefit to removing the extenders putting lead boot straight to spark plug and fitting the heat socks ? As these heat boots/socks can be purchased for about £20 now and rated to 1800 degrees
Ditching the plug extenders is a no-brainer, even if they are working now they will eventually fail causing misfires and poor running, if you then replace them you'll find failure will come very soon after as the latest batch of extenders are very poor quality indeed. I threw mine in the bin some 7 years ago, I first ran the cheaper fiberglass socks which were Ok but the colour bleached out of them so I upgraded to DEI Titanium Protect-a-boots which have proved far superior in all respects.
DEI Titanium Protect-a-boots are made from woven basalt not fiberglass like the lesser and cheaper socks, if you go with the DEI brand they are quite expensive though, more recently I found a seller on eBay offering basalt socks far cheaper. I haven't tried them but if they are genuine basalt not just fiberglass died to look like basalt they should prove to be an excellent value option.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TriX-6-Titanium-Basalt-...
Leads and plugs are even more important, first off if you're still running the inappropriate NGK B7ECS specified by TVR you need to replace them with a number 6 heat range plug as the B7ECS is really a race plug that is just too cold so they tend to foul, switching to a NGK BP6ES or BPR6ES (if you want the 5k resistor) or better still a set of BPR6EIX iridium plugs is the way forward.
I have been through many brands of HT leads and without doubt MSD Superconductors stand head and shoulders above anything else, the boots are very heat resistant and can be bent to create the perfect angle to clear the exhaust manifolds, with the addition of basalt socks the issue of burnt leads/boots is a thing of the past. The leads themselves are super low resistance and I've even run them with non-resistor plugs with no EMI issues whatsoever proving the use of resistor plugs is actually unnecessary.
A healthy ignition system is essential to achieving a smooth running Chimaera with good drivability especially in the shunting zone (1,650 to 1,800rpm), the use of the correct high quality ignition components is the one thing we can all do that will make the biggest difference to how our car run. If your Chimaera is not running at its best, start with a full ignition service and you'll almost certainly make big improvements for minimal outlay, then switch to applying full manifold vacuum to the vacuum advance capsule on the side of the distributor and your Chimaera should glide through town and have lovely crisp throttle response too.
DEI Titanium Protect-a-boots are made from woven basalt not fiberglass like the lesser and cheaper socks, if you go with the DEI brand they are quite expensive though, more recently I found a seller on eBay offering basalt socks far cheaper. I haven't tried them but if they are genuine basalt not just fiberglass died to look like basalt they should prove to be an excellent value option.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TriX-6-Titanium-Basalt-...
Leads and plugs are even more important, first off if you're still running the inappropriate NGK B7ECS specified by TVR you need to replace them with a number 6 heat range plug as the B7ECS is really a race plug that is just too cold so they tend to foul, switching to a NGK BP6ES or BPR6ES (if you want the 5k resistor) or better still a set of BPR6EIX iridium plugs is the way forward.
I have been through many brands of HT leads and without doubt MSD Superconductors stand head and shoulders above anything else, the boots are very heat resistant and can be bent to create the perfect angle to clear the exhaust manifolds, with the addition of basalt socks the issue of burnt leads/boots is a thing of the past. The leads themselves are super low resistance and I've even run them with non-resistor plugs with no EMI issues whatsoever proving the use of resistor plugs is actually unnecessary.
A healthy ignition system is essential to achieving a smooth running Chimaera with good drivability especially in the shunting zone (1,650 to 1,800rpm), the use of the correct high quality ignition components is the one thing we can all do that will make the biggest difference to how our car run. If your Chimaera is not running at its best, start with a full ignition service and you'll almost certainly make big improvements for minimal outlay, then switch to applying full manifold vacuum to the vacuum advance capsule on the side of the distributor and your Chimaera should glide through town and have lovely crisp throttle response too.
I’ve got the cheap nasty ones as the bloke above points out, I ordered them myself.
4 years on they are sound, id like to see any take red hot heat for any length of time as in sitting on a manifold.
My point is don’t let that happen which is basics,,,, and any decent sock works well. My plug caps are still like new. I said I’d make my leads last 10 years,,, i’m 4 years in
4 years on they are sound, id like to see any take red hot heat for any length of time as in sitting on a manifold.
My point is don’t let that happen which is basics,,,, and any decent sock works well. My plug caps are still like new. I said I’d make my leads last 10 years,,, i’m 4 years in
Steve_D said:
I would leave well alone.
I think we have only replaced about 5 failed extenders over many years. Have done others where the customer wanted an all new setup. We don't see these as an issue in quite the same way forum members seem to.
Steve
Agreed. Nothing wrong with the original extenders and no need to go to the expense of changing unless they have failed. I think we have only replaced about 5 failed extenders over many years. Have done others where the customer wanted an all new setup. We don't see these as an issue in quite the same way forum members seem to.
Steve
My personal experience is one (just one, not a set), over two cars has needed changing since 1996. I'm pretty sure that was because a mechanic left it touching the manifold after a service too!
Englishman said:
Agreed. Nothing wrong with the original extenders and no need to go to the expense of changing unless they have failed.
My personal experience is one (just one, not a set), over two cars has needed changing since 1996. I'm pretty sure that was because a mechanic left it touching the manifold after a service too!
+1 My personal experience is one (just one, not a set), over two cars has needed changing since 1996. I'm pretty sure that was because a mechanic left it touching the manifold after a service too!
My experience exactly only one has failed since 1996 and that had fallen off the plug onto the manifold.
The extender issue was mentioned by Dom Trickett of TVR Power in a post i read recently (might be on this thread, but I started typing before checking).
It ONLY relates to extenders supplied about three years ago, where a batch that were marked Beru Germany and were sourced from the correct source were in fact cheap Chinese copies and were no good whatsoever.
I fell foul of this when my TVR expert felt that my originals looked old and tatty, so in the course of an annual service supplied me a fresh set, sourced from TVR Power so as to be guaranteed genuine.
Absolutely no fault of TVR Power whatsoever, but out of my new set 6 failed in the first 6 months of use, ruining a track day and a sprint day and spoiling my enjoyment of the car. TVR Power replaced all those I sent back without fuss or charge - in the end I stopped sending them back because I realised they clearly were caught by this as badly as i was, but many times over. After two failed on the way to a car show I binned the lot and went to heat socks.
I am now on ceramic capped leads, but I still have a few spare old good working original extenders.
I just keep them on the shelf in case any of our number have a single failure and want a working replacement.
It ONLY relates to extenders supplied about three years ago, where a batch that were marked Beru Germany and were sourced from the correct source were in fact cheap Chinese copies and were no good whatsoever.
I fell foul of this when my TVR expert felt that my originals looked old and tatty, so in the course of an annual service supplied me a fresh set, sourced from TVR Power so as to be guaranteed genuine.
Absolutely no fault of TVR Power whatsoever, but out of my new set 6 failed in the first 6 months of use, ruining a track day and a sprint day and spoiling my enjoyment of the car. TVR Power replaced all those I sent back without fuss or charge - in the end I stopped sending them back because I realised they clearly were caught by this as badly as i was, but many times over. After two failed on the way to a car show I binned the lot and went to heat socks.
I am now on ceramic capped leads, but I still have a few spare old good working original extenders.
I just keep them on the shelf in case any of our number have a single failure and want a working replacement.
QBee said:
The extender issue was mentioned by Dom Trickett of TVR Power in a post i read recently (might be on this thread, but I started typing before checking).
It ONLY relates to extenders supplied about three years ago, where a batch that were marked Beru Germany and were sourced from the correct source were in fact cheap Chinese copies and were no good whatsoever.
This happened to me. I had a misfire until I diagnosed the faulty one as a new shiny one marked BERU. The old, slight shabby and rusty ones still work fine! It ONLY relates to extenders supplied about three years ago, where a batch that were marked Beru Germany and were sourced from the correct source were in fact cheap Chinese copies and were no good whatsoever.
It's getting them off the plugs that damages them in my experience.
ok......so mixed bag of answers !
But at least I know if I wanted to use the socks it’s possible with my current leads , I’m thinking for the cost of the socks (larva Rock tit ones ) it’s worth taking the extenders out the equation ? Car pulls well can’t hear a miss on Tickover ? But it does shunt a little (like a feeling of a slight misfire) on light throttle soon as you press a bit picks ups fine ?
But at least I know if I wanted to use the socks it’s possible with my current leads , I’m thinking for the cost of the socks (larva Rock tit ones ) it’s worth taking the extenders out the equation ? Car pulls well can’t hear a miss on Tickover ? But it does shunt a little (like a feeling of a slight misfire) on light throttle soon as you press a bit picks ups fine ?
Yeah,,, inconclusive.
I thought these extenders were the reason for lots of misfires but maybe it’s just a wives tale,,, most things are.
For me removing any areas that were or are known to fail is a no brainier and I think the socks do a fine job, I quite like the look of them too.
I’ve always had to suspend my plug leads as the extenders would turn through vibration and sit on the manifolds, lost a lead that way once through it burning through and just decided it’s a better solution for me.
They are cheap so no big deal if they are a consumable item but mine have done about 15,000 miles I think it is and still work great.
I thought these extenders were the reason for lots of misfires but maybe it’s just a wives tale,,, most things are.
For me removing any areas that were or are known to fail is a no brainier and I think the socks do a fine job, I quite like the look of them too.
I’ve always had to suspend my plug leads as the extenders would turn through vibration and sit on the manifolds, lost a lead that way once through it burning through and just decided it’s a better solution for me.
They are cheap so no big deal if they are a consumable item but mine have done about 15,000 miles I think it is and still work great.
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