Heat shield pop rivets
Discussion
rivets are 3.2mm or 1/8" in old money. Probably about 12mm long but you may want to get a selection as the glass fibre varies in thickness.
Washers M3 x 9mm in stainless will do. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Penny-Washers-Repair-A2...
Steve
Washers M3 x 9mm in stainless will do. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Penny-Washers-Repair-A2...
Steve
AND sealed (water/fume tight)
https://www.spaldingfasteners.co.uk/3-2mm-a2-stain...
There are other sellers out there.
A@
https://www.spaldingfasteners.co.uk/3-2mm-a2-stain...
There are other sellers out there.
A@
I prefer to use ali rivets.
Stainless need a much higher setting force and you can end up pulling them through the GF.
The ones in there have worked fine for about 20 years so the new ones should outlast the car.
With the broken ball/pin inside the rivet there will be very little leakage.
Steve
Stainless need a much higher setting force and you can end up pulling them through the GF.
The ones in there have worked fine for about 20 years so the new ones should outlast the car.
With the broken ball/pin inside the rivet there will be very little leakage.
Steve
Silly Q...who's job was it at the factory to seal all the rivets across the alloy trim covering on the cars? and how was it done?
I had an early Griffith new and it suffered from water leaking into the foot wells. One issue was that the bonnet pull cable floated through the bulkhead and a convoluted brake cable rubber was found to add a seal, then all the alloy rivet heads were sealed with what appeared to be clear silicone, but near perfect circles! A@
I had an early Griffith new and it suffered from water leaking into the foot wells. One issue was that the bonnet pull cable floated through the bulkhead and a convoluted brake cable rubber was found to add a seal, then all the alloy rivet heads were sealed with what appeared to be clear silicone, but near perfect circles! A@
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stainless like suggested inc washers 