Rear suspension change
Discussion
Righto.. while I wait for brand new Billies for my 1998 450 I've picked up some non leaking, freshly bushed, actually oil filled second hand units I want to fit in the interim to address a super bouncy back-end (Insert appropriate Frankie Howerd noise here)
Have a set of new bolts and have read what looks like easy instructions on the world renowned bastion of truth we all call the internet... should be ok..
Question is, how likely am I to cock up the alignment, and are there any tips to avoid such?
Thanks in advance
J
Have a set of new bolts and have read what looks like easy instructions on the world renowned bastion of truth we all call the internet... should be ok..
Question is, how likely am I to cock up the alignment, and are there any tips to avoid such?
Thanks in advance
J
Edited by jof on Thursday 11th July 19:46 due to autocorrect being stupid and not understanding car words
Edited by jof on Thursday 11th July 19:48
If these units are a direct replacement as in valuing and spring rate and correct length then settings should stay the same.
Make ride height checks before and after as that will effect rear camber slightly.
For the aggro involved I’d just weight for my new shocks to arrive to be honest.
A simple and fairly effective ride height check can be done measuring from your 4 out rigger corners down to the ground, use a level garage floor for this.
I’d have a full alignment check by a respected Tvr specialist after fitting new shocks to get the best out of them.
Make ride height checks before and after as that will effect rear camber slightly.
For the aggro involved I’d just weight for my new shocks to arrive to be honest.
A simple and fairly effective ride height check can be done measuring from your 4 out rigger corners down to the ground, use a level garage floor for this.
I’d have a full alignment check by a respected Tvr specialist after fitting new shocks to get the best out of them.
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