parts recomendations
parts recomendations
Author
Discussion

Paulprior

Original Poster:

871 posts

126 months

Thursday 10th October 2019
quotequote all
I hato go to a specialistd a few small advisories on the MOT, slight play in an upper front ball joint, a small split on the rubber of one of the lower ball joints and a split on the ARB drop link rubber,i have done some searching for part numbers but the ones i found are quite old and the links are no longer working, would anyone know what i need to order, can i get them from a local motor factor or do i need to go to a specialist ?, there seemed to be a lot of talk particularly on getting the correct bottom joint, obviously i will replace upper and lowers on both sides

Belle427

11,145 posts

254 months

Friday 11th October 2019
quotequote all
I just buy them from Tvr Parts or Racetech as I know they will be right first time.
Postage costs can be high that's the only issue.
They no doubt will be buying in from a motor factors but I'm happy to pay a little extra.

motul1974

727 posts

160 months

Friday 11th October 2019
quotequote all
Yeah, postage cost is my bug bear with them too. TVR parts charge you full up when you order and a meant automatically refund you if the postage is lower.....that doesn't always happen.

Beauty of them though is the parts are almost certainly going to be the right one......almost! To be fair though, I'll tend to use them and spend the extra few quid as I really don't have the time nor inclination to chase the world trying to find the exact part in order to potentially save a few quid - made that mistake in the past!

Hedgehopper

1,542 posts

265 months

Friday 11th October 2019
quotequote all
Don’t take any risks with ball joints. There have been issues with top joints being too fat to attain correct camber angles and lower joints lacking sufficient articulation not to lock up at the extremities of their travel.
In my opinion TVR Parts (and Powers and Racetech) are reasonable on price, offer prompt service and provide the correct part. As said above, I have twice received 50% postage refunds when ordering smaller parts from TVR Parts. I suggest that for such a safety critical part you stay away from cheap on-line suppliers.

Paulprior

Original Poster:

871 posts

126 months

Friday 11th October 2019
quotequote all
Fair enough, just ordered them all from TVR Parts along with engine mounts as well, whats the best / easiest way to split the upper and lower ball joints?, something i havent done before, do i need one of those forked wedges?

ianwayne

7,576 posts

289 months

Friday 11th October 2019
quotequote all
On my last Chimaera, I changed the upper balljoints myself. They are the same as a Saab 99 / early Saab 900 but you have to make sure the sides of the joint are not too wide to allow movement within the upper wishbone. Here's a typical example:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FBJ5138-FIRST-LINE-BALL...

I can't vouch for this actual product, I can't remember where I got them.

I didn't have to change the lower ones but there are many sellers saying they fit a TVR that obviously don't (4 mounting holes), you need ones with 3 mounting holes.

Drop links were discussed at great length and I used ones from a Honda Accord that fit great, others have used Honda Civic, they are a bit shorter:

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=16...

Track rod ends are old Ford parts if you need them too.

The parts at TVR Parts will all be fine, bit sometimes you can avoid what people call the 'TVR tax.' I only pursued other avenues because the car was completely off the road anyway and if the parts I bought had not fitted properly, I had time to get alternatives.


Edited by ianwayne on Friday 11th October 14:16

TwinKam

3,447 posts

116 months

Friday 11th October 2019
quotequote all
Paulprior said:
Fair enough, just ordered them all from TVR Parts along with engine mounts as well, whats the best / easiest way to split the upper and lower ball joints?, something i havent done before, do i need one of those forked wedges?
'Scissor' is the best type, kinder to surrounding parts than a forked wedge.
NB I'm not recommending this specific make nor vendor, merely using it as an example of type.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ball-Joint-Splitter-Sep...

Paulprior

Original Poster:

871 posts

126 months

Friday 11th October 2019
quotequote all
Hi, I can see that being used on the lower ball joint but can’t see how to use it for the top one, am I missing something??

ianwayne

7,576 posts

289 months

Friday 11th October 2019
quotequote all
On my car, I ended up having to take one of the hubs off the car and the use of a vice and a 'persuader' to get the old top ball joint out. This need the disconnecting of the braking system and the calipers, etc. Jobs like that often snowball. frown

Edited by ianwayne on Friday 11th October 20:39

Paulprior

Original Poster:

871 posts

126 months

Saturday 12th October 2019
quotequote all
Before I give The top joint a big thump somewhere could someone just confirm if I need to slacken off the grey painted bolt in the picture on the top left of the hub carrier ?, it looks as if it just holds the bit that the joint fits into ?


Hedgehopper

1,542 posts

265 months

Saturday 12th October 2019
quotequote all
I haven't done this job myself so can't offer any advice about the bolt but these pics. might help...…




Dougal9887

230 posts

102 months

Saturday 12th October 2019
quotequote all
I think you would struggle to get the top joint apart on the car.
Yes you need to remove that bolt, then upend the carrier on a substantial vice or similar. Heat the joint with a blowlamp then drive the ball joint out with a substantial drift and a lump hammer. For the drift, I cut the spade end off a cold chisel. It's in there to stay and needs proper persuasion to come out!!

SILICONEKID 357HP

14,997 posts

252 months

Saturday 12th October 2019
quotequote all
Should they be charging vat on postage ?

My advice to racetec is to use a cheaper courier ! Its discusting what they charge .

ianwayne

7,576 posts

289 months

Saturday 12th October 2019
quotequote all
I managed not to have to undo that bolt (grey in the photo), it's the pinch bolt that holds the hub together. Up inside the top of the hub is the nut that holds the end of the ball joint.

Steve_D

13,801 posts

279 months

Saturday 12th October 2019
quotequote all
You do not need to undo the bolt referred too.
You remove the nut from up inside the top tube then get 'very' physical with the largest hammer you own and a wedge type ball joint tool. As has been said there is no other tool that can get in there.

I will no doubt hear the hammer blows and swearing from here.

Been there many times.
Steve

Paulprior

Original Poster:

871 posts

126 months

Saturday 12th October 2019
quotequote all
Thanks guys, it’s great to have photos to fully understand what’s there as well as the recomendations, I have cut the rubbers out and sprayed some penetrating oil in, big hammer and wedge sat there waiting for the morning

T74T

21 posts

99 months

Saturday 12th October 2019
quotequote all
SILICONEKID 357HP said:
Should they be charging vat on postage ?

My advice to racetec is to use a cheaper courier ! Its discusting what they charge .
Its basically because they are a business charges for postage and packing are subject to VAT. If they could send the part out in an envelope with a stamp on the stamp is not subject to VAT unfortunately not many parts fit in a little envelope with a stamp on

Paulprior

Original Poster:

871 posts

126 months

Sunday 13th October 2019
quotequote all
So the top and bottom ball joints have been persuaded to separate, but I find the orientation of the drop links just looks odd, could someone please confirm if this is correct or not ?

Belle427

11,145 posts

254 months

Sunday 13th October 2019
quotequote all
Mine are like that, it's a pretty severe angle to be working at for sure.

ianwayne

7,576 posts

289 months

Sunday 13th October 2019
quotequote all
It looks so severe because of the 'droop' you now have with components removed.

You could slacken off the front ARB bush clamp bolts which would allow the bar to rotate a bit. But if the radiator is in place, these are damned awkward to get to.