Oil Pressure Sender
Discussion
Does anyone else go through oil pressure senders what feels like every12 months?
They only seem to give good oil pressure for a little while and then start to lose pressure. I've checked the pressure with another gauge and all is good so its definitely the senders that are failing. Does anyone else have this problem?
Anyway to make one last longer?
They only seem to give good oil pressure for a little while and then start to lose pressure. I've checked the pressure with another gauge and all is good so its definitely the senders that are failing. Does anyone else have this problem?
Anyway to make one last longer?
You can always try the Isspro sender as detailed by Chimpongas ( Dave) on another thread if you can find it.
It will require a small wiring adaption as it has its own earth or ground wire.
On my later car with the Cerb type ( late ) gauges it does read slightly higher than it should at zero so starts at about 5 psi but does mimmick my actual oil pressure better than the two senders I tried before that both failing similar to yours.
It’s been consistent for about 2 years of use before I parked car up so overall a success.
On Dave’s car with the slightly older style gauges I think it’s very consistent. Maybe pm him and he can explain better than me.
It will require a small wiring adaption as it has its own earth or ground wire.
On my later car with the Cerb type ( late ) gauges it does read slightly higher than it should at zero so starts at about 5 psi but does mimmick my actual oil pressure better than the two senders I tried before that both failing similar to yours.
It’s been consistent for about 2 years of use before I parked car up so overall a success.
On Dave’s car with the slightly older style gauges I think it’s very consistent. Maybe pm him and he can explain better than me.
Edited by Classic Chim on Saturday 16th November 09:03
The reason these senders fail with annoying regularity is the rubber diaphragm inside gets affected by the hot acidic engine oil, however if you buy the American made Isspro sender it will be far better quality than the ones offered by the TVR parts specialists, cheaper too!
Call these people...
https://technisolltd.co.uk/
Ask for an Isspro R8917-03, expect to pay about £35.00 delivered to your door.
Unlike the single terminal original that earths through the body of the sender, with your new Isspro R8917-03 you'll need to make up a short earth lead as it takes its earth from the second terminal. This is simple to do and gives a more reliable earth, a dedicated earth lead is actually an advantage.
R8917-03 is a 0-100 psi sender which works perfectly with the TVR gauge. The -03 element of the part number relates to the isolated earth type as shown below.
The second sender terminal marked "G" relates to gauge not ground.
The only other consideration with this Isspro sender is it's length, the unit is longer than the original, in order to get the thread started I needed to jack the engine slightly. Just taking the weight of the engine on the jack was sufficient, once started on the thread the sender screws in easily and with it fully seated on the taper the weight of engine could be taken off the jack and you're left with no chassis cross brace clearance issues whatsoever.
The Isspro R8917-03 sender is made better than the VDO brand typically offered by the TVR parts specialists, in my experience it also gives a more accurate reading as it's better paired with the TVR gauge. The use of a dedicated earth lead is more reliable than earthing the unit through it's body and finally the Isspro R8917-03 is half the price of buying a lesser sender from one of the TVR parts specialists.
Better quality, less leak prone, more accurate and way cheaper too... what's not to like?
Call these people...
https://technisolltd.co.uk/
Ask for an Isspro R8917-03, expect to pay about £35.00 delivered to your door.
Unlike the single terminal original that earths through the body of the sender, with your new Isspro R8917-03 you'll need to make up a short earth lead as it takes its earth from the second terminal. This is simple to do and gives a more reliable earth, a dedicated earth lead is actually an advantage.
R8917-03 is a 0-100 psi sender which works perfectly with the TVR gauge. The -03 element of the part number relates to the isolated earth type as shown below.
- Range: 0-100 PSI
- Compatibility: 240-33 Ohms
- Thread: 1/8 NPTF
- Connection: 2 stud type terminals (Gauge & Earth)
The second sender terminal marked "G" relates to gauge not ground.
The only other consideration with this Isspro sender is it's length, the unit is longer than the original, in order to get the thread started I needed to jack the engine slightly. Just taking the weight of the engine on the jack was sufficient, once started on the thread the sender screws in easily and with it fully seated on the taper the weight of engine could be taken off the jack and you're left with no chassis cross brace clearance issues whatsoever.
The Isspro R8917-03 sender is made better than the VDO brand typically offered by the TVR parts specialists, in my experience it also gives a more accurate reading as it's better paired with the TVR gauge. The use of a dedicated earth lead is more reliable than earthing the unit through it's body and finally the Isspro R8917-03 is half the price of buying a lesser sender from one of the TVR parts specialists.
Better quality, less leak prone, more accurate and way cheaper too... what's not to like?
Should be fine as long as your engine mounts are not old and sagging.
Simple rule of thumb is to look through front wheel arches and you’ll see exhaust manifolds running alongside top chassis tube.
Your looking for a 10 mm gap along that length if all good, if so your good to go as both the Chim and Griff share the same chassis.
I replaced my engine mounts and when doing so I also lifted the engine as high as possible before nipping bolts up, this can add a couple of mm extra clearance which is always useful.
Simple rule of thumb is to look through front wheel arches and you’ll see exhaust manifolds running alongside top chassis tube.
Your looking for a 10 mm gap along that length if all good, if so your good to go as both the Chim and Griff share the same chassis.
I replaced my engine mounts and when doing so I also lifted the engine as high as possible before nipping bolts up, this can add a couple of mm extra clearance which is always useful.
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