Wiper Motor Retaining Screw/Fixing Sheared..
Discussion
In replacing the park switch, which has definitely made an improvement (the new one is not in the picture!), although I still need to remove and clean the motor as well since one speed still doesn't work, one of the screws for the nut that holds the clip on sheared off as I removed it.
What is the best way to fix this? Do I just need to drill it out, put some reasonable filler in there and put a new one in? Any advice on what to put in? I've seen some suggestions of bighead fasteners, is that reasonable?
Nothing is ever just simple!
Thanks!
What is the best way to fix this? Do I just need to drill it out, put some reasonable filler in there and put a new one in? Any advice on what to put in? I've seen some suggestions of bighead fasteners, is that reasonable?
Nothing is ever just simple!
Thanks!
Edited by Monsterlime on Friday 3rd January 17:26
The Rivnut looks a nice solution. Might be an excuse to buy another tool (don’t tell the wife!).
No idea if it is bonded or in an insert, I was hoping someone might know before I start attacking it.
I am of course assuming TVR didn’t actually weld it to a plate and then bond it, cos that would be silly.
No idea if it is bonded or in an insert, I was hoping someone might know before I start attacking it.
I am of course assuming TVR didn’t actually weld it to a plate and then bond it, cos that would be silly.
Had same issue, thread in body is just a bobbin, not unlike these..... clicky
I replaced with Rawlnuts....... clicky again
they are flexible, dont put stress on the fibreglass and seal as they tighten, no water ingress
From your photo it does look like a glassed in brass bobbin.
An alternative fixing which I'm not sure if it was Factoty or not was a flat bar with two bolts welded to it stuck from inside the cockpit so the bolts stick up into the engine bay, but would mean removing the heater box to insert, so I would try and go for a engine bay fix.
I've seen a photo but as usual, can't find it!!!!
An alternative fixing which I'm not sure if it was Factoty or not was a flat bar with two bolts welded to it stuck from inside the cockpit so the bolts stick up into the engine bay, but would mean removing the heater box to insert, so I would try and go for a engine bay fix.
I've seen a photo but as usual, can't find it!!!!
Same happened to mine - the original arrangement is a metal strip with two bolts welded to it. This was then stuck to the under side of the bulkhead above the heater box, so very difficult to get to!
What I did in the end was push what was remaining of the stud back down the hole in the fibreglass, and bend it out of the way. I then used a thin wire down the hole, wrapped it around the end of a short bolt and and pulled the bolt back up through the hole. I managed to then inject some epoxy glue down and around the base of the bolt to hold it in place.
Fix has been fine for the last few years, however now have the body off and heater out so will probably return it back to how it was - or just glass in some proper inserts.
What I did in the end was push what was remaining of the stud back down the hole in the fibreglass, and bend it out of the way. I then used a thin wire down the hole, wrapped it around the end of a short bolt and and pulled the bolt back up through the hole. I managed to then inject some epoxy glue down and around the base of the bolt to hold it in place.
Fix has been fine for the last few years, however now have the body off and heater out so will probably return it back to how it was - or just glass in some proper inserts.
phillpot said:
Had same issue, thread in body is just a bobbin, not unlike these..... clicky
I replaced with Rawlnuts....... clicky again
they are flexible, dont put stress on the fibreglass and seal as they tighten, no water ingress
These look quite simple, what size did you use? An M6?I replaced with Rawlnuts....... clicky again
they are flexible, dont put stress on the fibreglass and seal as they tighten, no water ingress
I assume you just drilled out the existing one and then replaced with that, enlarging the hole as necessary?
I may try pushing it down first, will see if it moves. Have currently bodged it in place with some gaffer tape, but will get some of those rawlnuts.
I've recently used 'rivnuts' on my Tuscan to provide a fixing for the lower 'ball' on my opening bonnet stays.
My mate had a varied selection of sizes plus the fixing tool to crimp/squeeze them in/onto the body work.
Having used them now (for the first time), I've come to the conclusion that the tool is not really necessary. I found that with the M6 rivnut the squeeze could be just as easily accomplished by screwing a 10mm bolt into the 'nut' but with a slightly larger nut and penny washer between the head of the bolt and the rivnut/body work.
It was comparatively easy to feel/judge when the alloy body around the threaded insert started to deform and grip the rear of the grp panel...Ultimately it's the same principle as a pop rivet?
Nick
My mate had a varied selection of sizes plus the fixing tool to crimp/squeeze them in/onto the body work.
Having used them now (for the first time), I've come to the conclusion that the tool is not really necessary. I found that with the M6 rivnut the squeeze could be just as easily accomplished by screwing a 10mm bolt into the 'nut' but with a slightly larger nut and penny washer between the head of the bolt and the rivnut/body work.
It was comparatively easy to feel/judge when the alloy body around the threaded insert started to deform and grip the rear of the grp panel...Ultimately it's the same principle as a pop rivet?
Nick
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