Brake fluid type and level. soft peddel
Discussion
Hi guys
Popped out on my lunch at work and the brake peddel seamed to travel further than normal and felt a bit spongy. Light also came on next to hand brake light (to the right). Got out and checked the fluid level. cant see any fluid at all just a hole in the bottom of the cup/bottle. what level should it be and what type? also what should i be looking at to see where i have lost the fluid from?
Thanks in advance
Jay
Popped out on my lunch at work and the brake peddel seamed to travel further than normal and felt a bit spongy. Light also came on next to hand brake light (to the right). Got out and checked the fluid level. cant see any fluid at all just a hole in the bottom of the cup/bottle. what level should it be and what type? also what should i be looking at to see where i have lost the fluid from?
Thanks in advance
Jay
You want DOT 5.1 or (at a pinch) DOT 4.
Don't be tempted to use DOT 5 which is completely different and not compatible, not that you are likely to see this in any normal shops.
If you have a leak it is probably at the master cylinder. In this case it might appear on the carpet by the pedals, or it might collect inside the brake servo. It might conceivably be a failed seal at one of the slaves, in which case it will drop onto the inside of the wheel, but this is less likely.
Watch out for the fluid, as well as being moderately poisonous, corrosive, and an excellent paint stripper, it is also highly flamable. If you suspect you have even the slightest trace on your hands don't touch anything and wash it off immediately. Any slight trace that is transferred to clothes will rot them a couple of days later. It really is nasty stuff.
Don't be tempted to use DOT 5 which is completely different and not compatible, not that you are likely to see this in any normal shops.
If you have a leak it is probably at the master cylinder. In this case it might appear on the carpet by the pedals, or it might collect inside the brake servo. It might conceivably be a failed seal at one of the slaves, in which case it will drop onto the inside of the wheel, but this is less likely.
Watch out for the fluid, as well as being moderately poisonous, corrosive, and an excellent paint stripper, it is also highly flamable. If you suspect you have even the slightest trace on your hands don't touch anything and wash it off immediately. Any slight trace that is transferred to clothes will rot them a couple of days later. It really is nasty stuff.
Hi,
I wouldn't personnally bother topping up the fluid before having the problem sorted. In addition, never use an opened bottle of brake fluid as it absorbs water from the air.. hense cloudy and manky brake fluid which could cause havoc with seals etc
In effect your system has air in it.. and you will need a full blead... which could easily make the leak/problem even worse. I killed a master cylinder which bleading to enthusiastically.
Good luck hunting the problem... again I agree it sounds like a seal failure
I wouldn't personnally bother topping up the fluid before having the problem sorted. In addition, never use an opened bottle of brake fluid as it absorbs water from the air.. hense cloudy and manky brake fluid which could cause havoc with seals etc
In effect your system has air in it.. and you will need a full blead... which could easily make the leak/problem even worse. I killed a master cylinder which bleading to enthusiastically.
Good luck hunting the problem... again I agree it sounds like a seal failure
Get a garage to fix it. They have a pressure machine thing which forces the fliud through. Doesn't cost much, and having just had my hoses changed to braided steel ones and a refill with dot 5.1, believe me it it not worth your effort when someone elso can do it with the right equipment in about half an hour.
I would also strongly recommend that you don't drive it at all until you have found the leak - having the fluid shoot out at the wrong moment on the way to get it fixed would probably leave you with no brakes at all.
Which is probably a bad thing.
Hope it is just a pipe somewhere that needs tightening up.
I would also strongly recommend that you don't drive it at all until you have found the leak - having the fluid shoot out at the wrong moment on the way to get it fixed would probably leave you with no brakes at all.
Which is probably a bad thing. Hope it is just a pipe somewhere that needs tightening up.
You said that the brakes feel spongy. It that case, air has already got into the system somewhere.
Its up to you if you take the risk of topping up just to get to the nearest garage, but if you do, take it easy as you don't know how bad the leak is and the air will still be there. Or call the AA.
Sorry, don't know about the seals. Might be just a loose pipe - woth checking first.
If you get under the steering wheel and look up with a torch (bit of a contorsionist act) you will see where several copper brake pipes come through the bulkhead - worth a look to see if anything is loose/split.
Its up to you if you take the risk of topping up just to get to the nearest garage, but if you do, take it easy as you don't know how bad the leak is and the air will still be there. Or call the AA.
Sorry, don't know about the seals. Might be just a loose pipe - woth checking first.
If you get under the steering wheel and look up with a torch (bit of a contorsionist act) you will see where several copper brake pipes come through the bulkhead - worth a look to see if anything is loose/split.
Sorry .. I meant to phrase it "topping up will just fill the system with more fluid to leak.. so best to call RAC and get it towed for sake of safety"
Urm the seals are cheap and easy to do.. its the access to the master cylinder is the prob. Hence, the £500 prices quoted by approved dealers to replace one... mainly because of the 3-6 hours labour.
I managed to replace one.... but was a tough job!!
Urm the seals are cheap and easy to do.. its the access to the master cylinder is the prob. Hence, the £500 prices quoted by approved dealers to replace one... mainly because of the 3-6 hours labour.
I managed to replace one.... but was a tough job!!
Sorted. On the ramps at Horizon this morning. Mike chased it back to a split line on the front nearside. So the sly fella talked me into getting the lot replaced with Goodrich braided items!
Only bad news is he also pointed out my 2 rear tyres are on the edge of being illegal and my front nearside shock is leaking! DOH anyone got a spare lying around?
Only bad news is he also pointed out my 2 rear tyres are on the edge of being illegal and my front nearside shock is leaking! DOH anyone got a spare lying around?
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