Bonnet release cable advice ...

[ChrisW500]

Hi All

I am guessing that many of you like me have a bit of time on our hands so I decided to walk round the Chim to start my jobs to do list :-)

So my bonnet release cable has always been a bit iffy and hard to pull / release. Below you will see the problem:



The cable metal outer has become detached from the ferul / adjuster.

There is nothing left on the small collar to crimp so guessing its a new cable from TVR Parts ... but before I order one any advice on the best way to approach the cable replacement? I was thinking that the best way would be to disconnect the cable at the latch and somehow attach some string or such and pull it though into the car, then attach the new cable and do the opposite to get it threaded back through to the engine bay??

Advice always welcome!

Thanks in advance

Chris

[Loubaruch]

Ensure that you keep the bonnet open while working, if that closes without the cable you will have a problem.

When I replaced my cable on a Griffith I also tied an emergency pull cord on the latch and routed it under the car so if the cable ever broke I could still open the bonnet.

[ChrisW500]

Good call ... will do that.. What method did you use to get the new cable through to the car?

[Belle427]

I seem to remember cutting mine inside the car, pulling the inner wire out and using the sleeve to pull the new one through, using duck tape to attach one to the other.
I second putting an emergency pull cord on it, ask me how difficult it is to open a bonnet with a snapped cable!

[Steve_D]

That cable looks like most cars I see. Have you tried cable tying it to the fuel hose so the loop in the cable keeps the cable end into the fitting.
I suspect a new cable will not produce the improvements you are hoping for.

If you do replace it then yes tape a string to the old and pull it through then use the string to pull the new one through.

But.................remember to put the new cable through the bracket first otherwise you will be taking it back out again.
Ask me how I know.

Steve

[Dougal9887]

Maybe just back the adjuster up against the cable outer, to take out the slack, and wind some insulating tape around it for appearances sake? Once that slack has gone the actual cable adjuster should give the desired effect.
Dougal.

[ChrisW500]

Many thanks folks I will do the tape solution for now and get a new cable ordered. I will report back once all done (hopefully!!)

Chris (Chim 400)

[Steve_D]

Dougal9887 said:

Maybe just back the adjuster up against the cable outer, to take out the slack, and wind some insulating tape around it for appearances sake? Once that slack has gone the actual cable adjuster should give the desired effect.
Dougal.

I don't think you can do that. The way the mechanism works that slack has to be there.

Steve

[Jon100p]

Steve_D said:

I don't think you can do that. The way the mechanism works that slack has to be there.

Steve

Yes correct, you need about 1 to 1.5 cm slack when the latch is open to allow it to close.

Here is my emergency release - an old key ring, some wire and two small cable ties.

[Adrian@]

I thought that the later cars had a grommet behind the bonnet catch in the heater distribution box wall and another grommet in the shell to allow you to open the bonnet with the dash top off (this came in with the access panels in the shell to get to the wiper pinions). I retro added them back in the day. A@

[ou sont les biscuits]

I didn't add an emergency secondary release when I changed mine. Thinking about it, if you have replaced the inner and external cable and you keep an eye on it, the chances of it breaking are slim. I reckon that there is more chance of the thing that screws on to the end of the cable slipping so that you pull the release cable out rather than opening the latch.

So, I put a second backup stop on the end of the cable. I used an electrical choc bloc connector with both screws on that done up tight.

[Hedgehopper]

I ran the emergency release cord through a length of tubing, down the side of the bellhousing to where it is easily visible and accessible from underneath.

[ChrisW500]

Hi Guys

Well tracked down all the bits for the bonnet cable replacement, so its come to the top of the job list so will have a go at it tomorrow!

[ChrisW500]

So after some careful planning to ensure that I had a way to pull the new cable through the bulkhead its all in and connected. It seems to be unlocking the main latch but I am not sure what the alarm lever should be doing? Does it latch down and then lock or just goes down and then come back up when you unlock the bonnet latch

C

Thanks

Chris

[Steve_D]

ChrisW500 said:

So after some careful planning to ensure that I had a way to pull the new cable through the bulkhead its all in and connected. It seems to be unlocking the main latch but I am not sure what the alarm lever should be doing? Does it latch down and then lock or just goes down and then come back up when you unlock the bonnet latch

C

Thanks

Chris

The lever is spring loaded and is what 'pops' the bonnet up when you release the latch.

Nice neat job with only one bit left to do.
Please go and cut that cable tie so the tail end is flush with the latch part. left as it is they do untold damage to mechanics arms and wrists when trying to work on cars.

Steve

[666 SVT]

I like the look of these from an earlier thread on here.

[666 SVT]

[ChrisW500]

All in fitted and working with normal service resumed thanks for the advice everyonE

Chris

[94Griff500]

Chris, where did you end up getting all the parts & cable to replace all the little bits to do the job right?

[ChrisW500]

Doug

You have mail!

Chris