Replacing the outer door seal

[mpowa]

I am in the process of replacing the outerseal seal due to it splitting . The seal was glued in originally probably with a hot glue gun . I have tried to use tiger seal then use bulldog clips to hold it in position while the sealant goes off , but this cases the glue to ouse out all over. Has anyone else succesfully carried ot this task , if so can you please share your technique .

[lancepar]

I think Adhesive Sealants like you are using can be applied to both surfaces and left to go tacky before bringing together.
Maybe that would work.

[mpowa]

Hi Lance that's a good idea , ill give it a try

[Steve_D]

They were not fitted with adhesive from the factory and it should be possible to fit new seals the same way.
The only place I have used adhesive on them is the top of the B post where it bends round to meet the seatbelt mount plus a rivet or self tapping screw.

Steve

[lancepar]

Steve_D said:

They were not fitted with adhesive from the factory and it should be possible to fit new seals the same way.
The only place I have used adhesive on them is the top of the B post where it bends round to meet the seatbelt mount plus a rivet or self tapping screw.

Steve

I'm not sure what seal the OP is referring to.
We need a photo......

[Dalamar]

Hope people don’t mind if I ask a couple of related questions to this thread.

I am doing the same job and can see the rivets used at the top of the B pillar. Should the seal opening there be filled with a bit of Sikaflex to stop water ingress?

Also, I appreciate lower down the seal there are a couple of cut outs to let any trapped moisture escape but do they need to be so big? Mine are about an inch long. I was thinking just a small discreet hole on the underside of the seal would suffice.

[Steve_D]

Dalamar said:

Hope people don’t mind if I ask a couple of related questions to this thread.

I am doing the same job and can see the rivets used at the top of the B pillar. Should the seal opening there be filled with a bit of Sikaflex to stop water ingress?

Also, I appreciate lower down the seal there are a couple of cut outs to let any trapped moisture escape but do they need to be so big? Mine are about an inch long. I was thinking just a small discreet hole on the underside of the seal would suffice.

I doubt any significant amount of water could get in the top so your choice.

That cutout in not standard. Never seen that before.

The factory method was to squash the seal for about 40mm. Don't know how it was done but suspect the seal was injected with some superglue then squashed. The result is that the squashed section can no longer seal against the door in much the same way your cutout does not touch the door.

Steve

[Dalamar]

Thanks Steve, I'll go for the squashed seal method. It will look a lot neater.

[briantvr350i]

Hi all,

think Phil is struggling to replace the rubber seal that goes between the door and the glass on the outside, the inside is a brush seal..

HTH

Regards, Brian and a Green Griffith 500

[Steve_D]

If you are referring to the weather seal along the outer top edge of the door and which rubs against the glass as it goes up and down then it is superglued to the door.

Steve

[mpowa]

Hi Guys thanks for all the reply's just to clarify it is the outer weather seal that I am replacing .what makes it difficult is that there is only a small contact area where the seal attaches to the door , I ended up putting tiger seal on the rubber seal & door where the seal fits then letting the adhesive go off so its really tacky before fitting the seal to the door . I then let it cure for twenty four hours before reassembling the door . job done