Electric windows.... Both not working.

[cabbron]

Any pointers gratefully received. New Chim owner so just getting to grips with it. Previous owner said both were working but weakly. Hmm. Are there any known problems. Both going at same time seems strange. Checked fuse. Haven't stripped doors yet. Tia guys

[V8fan]

With just the speakers removed, you should have sufficient access to check if you have a voltage supply to the motors. It is a door strip to change the motors though.

Lubrication of the rails can help, but really, after a few years, the motors just aren't man enough to work properly, especially on battery only without the engine running.

Edited by V8fan on Thursday 23 April 17:58

[QBee]

Try again, engine running, for extra volts, and give them a helping hand.
If they still don't go, then they might need some silicon spray in the runners, but if that doesn't shift 'em, you maybe need to be checking wring/fuses.
I have read that the wiring isn't up to the job and so re-wiring with better calibre wires may well cure the issue. If the motors have just got stuck, I think there is a lubrication hole in each, but I cannot remember how much you need to remove to locate it.

I have to add that most things can be accessed via the speaker hole, including every aspect of the door mirrors, but I cannot remember if i had the door card off to lube the motors. It isn't difficult to remove so long as you are over 5 ft 4 and under 14 stone. Over 14 stone and your arm probably won't manouvre once you get it into the speaker hole, and too short and your arm won't be long enough to reach the rear nut. It's a 10mm ratchet ring spanner that works best

Tip - get a set of glow when they blow fuses. It shouldn't cost you more than a tenner, a few minutes head first in the footwell changing them over, and you will then immediately know if any problem is fuse related because you will be able to see it. You will need a 5 pack of each from 10 amp to 30 amp IIRC.

[cabbron]

Great info, thanks for the replies. Now sorted. 2 functioning windows. Lubed and engine running got them going again. Motors do seem weak.

[Belle427]

There are a lot of old threads that suggest it's due to voltage drop as the wiring is not quite man enough.
There are some mods using relays to be done but obviously requires some electrical knowledge.

[eff eff]

Belle427 said:

There are a lot of old threads that suggest it's due to voltage drop as the wiring is not quite man enough.
There are some mods using relays to be done but obviously requires some electrical knowledge.

Any further insights in to this window problem, its the one thing that really pi***s me off, ................Penelope stopit?

Edited by eff eff on Friday 24th April 13:15

[fieryfred]

I had problems & even ran cable off a seperate battery. Full power Scotty. This got the motor moving.
This was after greasing everything that moved. But the motor struggled. So i took the motor out.
The bottom section was filled with rusty water. The top lube point is intended for oil to run down the inner casing to the bearing below.
The bottom lube point is for the bottom section.
Take the motor out, i struggled because a coach bolt had been used instead of a bolt.
Drain the crap out re-lube & try the motor.
My bearing was shot so i bought a new motor.
I hope you can see the corrosion from the photo's

[MuffDaddy]

I had similar problems. Slow movement and eventually no movement. I ended up replacing the rubber/felt in the runners. Cleaned all connections, lubed the track. Now they are free running.

Worth the scratches arms. Also took time to do the wingnut upgrade to the door cards and fit the mirror extenders/grub screw fix.

I got the felt from TVR parts.

[phillpot]

Belle427 said:

There are a lot of old threads that suggest it's due to voltage drop as the wiring is not quite man enough.
There are some mods using relays to be done but obviously requires some electrical knowledge.

Old wiring, poor connections, corrosion in switches..............

take a 'good' fused live and earth directly into each door then follow these, if you can

[Penelope Stopit]

Relay switching can be altered to suit what's required

[eff eff]

Thanks for the circuit diagram

[Penelope Stopit]

eff eff said:

Thanks for the circuit diagram

Glad to possibly be of some help, would have posted it sooner, hadn't noticed your request

It's a simple motor reverser circuit

The relays should be mounted as close to the A Post as possible although they will go inside the doors if fitted in waterproof boxes

16 Amp cable or as near as should be used for the main fused supply to the relays contacts and the same again for the earths to the relays contacts, 16 Amp cable is then wired from the relays to the window motors, black twin 28/030 cable is good for relay to motor wiring

LH and RH motor relays can be supplied and fused seperately which will definitely make a difference if switching both motors at the same time and prevent a single fuse overload

Relay coils up and down signals can be switched positives or negatives or even a pos for up and a neg for down or vice versa (alter relay coil terminals wiring to suit), hence existing window switches will do the switching no matter what they are built to switch for up and down

Enjoy the benefits of the above

Keep well

[V8fan]

If you want to replace them, second hand ones are quite cheap from the TX1 series of taxis. You need the front passenger side from the taxi for the driver's side of a Chimaera and vice versa. I got one for under £20 delivered. Part no is 0130821070. If your passenger side one needs replacing, it's 0130821069. The gearing is what makes them sided.

The same are fitted to a Ferrari Mondial and Maserati Biturbo and people pay huge amounts for what is the same Bosch part! Some Mercedes and older BMW models too.

Brand new ones are £85 + VAT from TVR Parts.