Interior light wiring ..
Discussion
Hi guys
I have replaced my broken interior light but foolishly forgot to photograph the wiring so here is mine currently but cannot get the door open light to come on tried various combinations of the switch (3 way) and the wiring with little joy. Currently it comes on if switched to one position and stays on permanently but not when the doors open.. The black wire has +12v on it
Had all the door switched out and cleaned and good contacts. Anyone know the definitive connections so I can start from a start / correct position on the light?
Here is mine now:
I have replaced my broken interior light but foolishly forgot to photograph the wiring so here is mine currently but cannot get the door open light to come on tried various combinations of the switch (3 way) and the wiring with little joy. Currently it comes on if switched to one position and stays on permanently but not when the doors open.. The black wire has +12v on it
Had all the door switched out and cleaned and good contacts. Anyone know the definitive connections so I can start from a start / correct position on the light?
Here is mine now:
Looks like the purple and purple/red need swapping around
purple - fused battery +ive
purple/red - timed earth from delay/timer unit
black - earth
Would check that black as it seems to be missing its earth
Switch connects earth or timer earth to bulb bottom contact depending on its switched position
bulb body is supply
purple - fused battery +ive
purple/red - timed earth from delay/timer unit
black - earth
Would check that black as it seems to be missing its earth
Switch connects earth or timer earth to bulb bottom contact depending on its switched position
bulb body is supply
ChrisW500 said:
Many thanks guys... mine as mentioned is:
Black +12v permanent
Purple with red stripe is a permanent ground
Purple does not have a DC path to earth even with the door switch closed very odd?
If black is 12v there then put that to bulb body and the 2 purples go to the switch end. but you might have a problem with the door pins aswell.Black +12v permanent
Purple with red stripe is a permanent ground
Purple does not have a DC path to earth even with the door switch closed very odd?
If you are not concerned about having a time delay on the internal lights you can easily bypass the relay,
The lights will then simply come on when a door is opened and vice versa.
Those yellow relays contain a small amount of electronics so are more than a relay in construction and COST. They can also discharge your battery if faulty. This may help:
http://www.bertram-hill.com/courtesy-light.html
The lights will then simply come on when a door is opened and vice versa.
Those yellow relays contain a small amount of electronics so are more than a relay in construction and COST. They can also discharge your battery if faulty. This may help:
http://www.bertram-hill.com/courtesy-light.html
Just had mine apart as not working.
Cleaned all the connections and still nothing. Can't get to the fuse panel as the car is in the garage, however there is no power to the fitting. From the B pillar to the fitting there's 12v when I introduce power at the plug, I'll have a look at the fuse panel tomorrow, anyone know a part number for the relay/delay?
As an aside, I don't remember my last Chimaera having a light delay. I thought it was on or off with the doors, on all the time or off depending on the switch position.
Cleaned all the connections and still nothing. Can't get to the fuse panel as the car is in the garage, however there is no power to the fitting. From the B pillar to the fitting there's 12v when I introduce power at the plug, I'll have a look at the fuse panel tomorrow, anyone know a part number for the relay/delay?
As an aside, I don't remember my last Chimaera having a light delay. I thought it was on or off with the doors, on all the time or off depending on the switch position.
Both the bottom wires need to be the live feeds. One which is permanent live needs to go on the side that is made by the switch in the on postion. The other is the switched live from the door pillar switch which goes to the other connection which is usually the switch middle position.
The neutral wire (probably black) goes to the connector above the bulb which is the return feed for the other 2 wires.
This means the bulb will light when the switch is in the on position and will stay on when the door is closed.
The bulb will also light when the switch is in the middle position but will go off when the door is shut. (maybe after a delay if that feature fitted)
The bulb will never light when the switch is in the off position.
The neutral wire (probably black) goes to the connector above the bulb which is the return feed for the other 2 wires.
This means the bulb will light when the switch is in the on position and will stay on when the door is closed.
The bulb will also light when the switch is in the middle position but will go off when the door is shut. (maybe after a delay if that feature fitted)
The bulb will never light when the switch is in the off position.
From a previous post....
I’ve been messing with my interior light again. Previously I got it to manually switch on at the lamp by replacing the missing yellow relay. That was good enough but really dim.
Then I bought a LED bulb but I didn’t know at the time that the centre of the bulb is connected negative so it wouldn’t work and I know this type of LED is available now or I could have modified it myself. Anyway amongst my bits I found a similar lamp holder but for use with a festoon bulb. Now with a LED festoon bulb which can be swapped ends so it’s polarity is correct in the replacement fitting I now have a nice bright interior lamp. It still only works when manually switched but I can live with that.
The unit I used was a HELLA Interior Light 2JA 002 931-031 which originally used a Festoon Bulb K 12V 10W and I fitted a 39mm Festoon LED Interior Number Plate Light White.
New units available cheap as chips, if you know where to look.
I’ve been messing with my interior light again. Previously I got it to manually switch on at the lamp by replacing the missing yellow relay. That was good enough but really dim.
Then I bought a LED bulb but I didn’t know at the time that the centre of the bulb is connected negative so it wouldn’t work and I know this type of LED is available now or I could have modified it myself. Anyway amongst my bits I found a similar lamp holder but for use with a festoon bulb. Now with a LED festoon bulb which can be swapped ends so it’s polarity is correct in the replacement fitting I now have a nice bright interior lamp. It still only works when manually switched but I can live with that.
The unit I used was a HELLA Interior Light 2JA 002 931-031 which originally used a Festoon Bulb K 12V 10W and I fitted a 39mm Festoon LED Interior Number Plate Light White.
New units available cheap as chips, if you know where to look.
I'll just drop this one here, because why not.
Courtesy lamps replacing those useless door ashtrays
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDS4l4sm9GQ&t=...
Courtesy lamps replacing those useless door ashtrays
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDS4l4sm9GQ&t=...
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