Engine bay wiring question
Discussion
With a bit more time on my hands of late, I've been finishing a 3 year chassis restoration and I'm now finishing up the wiring in the engine bay. I've got one wire that I'm struggling with (see picture) which is a long, single black wire from where the main loom splits each side of the V at the back of the engine. It has a female spade connector on the end.
Please can someone tell me where to connect this one!
Thanks

Please can someone tell me where to connect this one!
Thanks
Belle427 said:
I don’t think I’ve ever seen a production car with a fuse in the alternator circuit so I’d appreciate an explanation as to why there is one in a Tvr.
Tvr didn’t get everything right as we know.
They realized the starters on these vehicles were getting Very Hot and it is a safety measure that was added, the connection between the starter and the alternator is fused only for the reason that if by chance the starter motor had a complete melt down then the fuse would blow and save the alternator from frying aswellTvr didn’t get everything right as we know.
So you might not need it then one day you might do.
Also if you have a problem and this fuse blows it is probably a good idea to fit a heat shield to the starter when you replace the fuse.
Edited by O mage on Wednesday 17th June 12:35
Hi the only single spade connection which that I have noticed while working on mine connects to oil sender unit by front of the sump. Sorry ignore this, just looked at my build drawing. Cable is No 102 brown/red starter motor to EFI connector 2 cavity No4. Regards.
Edited by DVR V8 on Thursday 18th June 11:54
There have been several reports about TVR's vanishing, never to be seen again
Meltdown is the cause of this
The starter reaches such high temperatures that its steel barrel drips away, this is followed by the alternator alloy casing igniting, the heat generated is enough to melt the engine block and ignite the cylinder heads, the rest of the car then evaporates
Don't get confused get fused
Meltdown is the cause of this
The starter reaches such high temperatures that its steel barrel drips away, this is followed by the alternator alloy casing igniting, the heat generated is enough to melt the engine block and ignite the cylinder heads, the rest of the car then evaporates
Don't get confused get fused
Penelope Stopit said:
They are like an insurance against fire
Anyone that is capable of carrying out a decent wiring job does not need one
As you mention, they were unheard of in the past and are not always fitted these days
Evil things they are, real men bin them
"An insurance against fire"Anyone that is capable of carrying out a decent wiring job does not need one
As you mention, they were unheard of in the past and are not always fitted these days
Evil things they are, real men bin them
So Penny do you not have house insurance? Surely "real men" don't need it, until they do.
Wiring deteriorates and one day that fuse may actually prevent the loss of a much loved car.
OP I would follow the information given by the more sensible posters above, many of whom actually own a TVR.
This may be the most useless piece of advice given on PH. - Bookmarked for future enjoyment.
Torchythebatteryboy said:
"An insurance against fire"
So Penny do you not have house insurance? Surely "real men" don't need it, until they do.
Wiring deteriorates and one day that fuse may actually prevent the loss of a much loved car.
OP I would follow the information given by the more sensible posters above, many of whom actually own a TVR.
This may be the most useless piece of advice given on PH. - Bookmarked for future enjoyment.
Ok then, thank you for the information and your opinionSo Penny do you not have house insurance? Surely "real men" don't need it, until they do.
Wiring deteriorates and one day that fuse may actually prevent the loss of a much loved car.
OP I would follow the information given by the more sensible posters above, many of whom actually own a TVR.
This may be the most useless piece of advice given on PH. - Bookmarked for future enjoyment.
Classic Chim said:
If you remove parts of a Tvr someone else has to put em back later to correct the car!
Listen to the Tvr owners here and keep your glue ( flammable) filled car a bit saver I’d suggest
Listen to the Tvr owners here and keep your glue ( flammable) filled car a bit saver I’d suggest

irony in my statement is that’s my old wiring harness off my 2000 year model Chim. 15 years old at the time and in perfect condition I must say, and not to fried and brittle. I now have a More modern ( better sealed) loom in its place as comes with the Mew MBE ecu POWERS Performance installed and from my experience not something you revert backwards on as it’s clearly a great improvement in future electrical reliability. The loom is possibly the most important part of modern ecu change if you really want reliability built in to the car.

O mage said:
Belle427 said:
I don’t think I’ve ever seen a production car with a fuse in the alternator circuit so I’d appreciate an explanation as to why there is one in a Tvr.
Tvr didn’t get everything right as we know.
They realized the starters on these vehicles were getting Very Hot and it is a safety measure that was added, the connection between the starter and the alternator is fused only for the reason that if by chance the starter motor had a complete melt down then the fuse would blow and save the alternator from frying aswellTvr didn’t get everything right as we know.
So you might not need it then one day you might do.
Also if you have a problem and this fuse blows it is probably a good idea to fit a heat shield to the starter when you replace the fuse.
Edited by O mage on Wednesday 17th June 12:35
and Belle427 just for your info Zener said:
O mage said:
Belle427 said:
I don’t think I’ve ever seen a production car with a fuse in the alternator circuit so I’d appreciate an explanation as to why there is one in a Tvr.
Tvr didn’t get everything right as we know.
They realized the starters on these vehicles were getting Very Hot and it is a safety measure that was added, the connection between the starter and the alternator is fused only for the reason that if by chance the starter motor had a complete melt down then the fuse would blow and save the alternator from frying aswellTvr didn’t get everything right as we know.
So you might not need it then one day you might do.
Also if you have a problem and this fuse blows it is probably a good idea to fit a heat shield to the starter when you replace the fuse.
Edited by O mage on Wednesday 17th June 12:35
and Belle427 just for your info Most cars have the alternator output terminal wired straight to the starter supply terminal and then straight on to battery +ve terminal, often in a one-piece loom/conduit.
I've just renewed a cambelt/waterpump on a Ford Courier 1.6HDi (Peugeot engine
) where the alternator-to-starter motor wiring conduit was so tight across the front of the timing cover that I annoyingly had to disconnect it at both the starter and the alternator ends first (more commonly this is routed 'around the back'). Not a fuse in sight.
Just sayin'.
I've just renewed a cambelt/waterpump on a Ford Courier 1.6HDi (Peugeot engine
) where the alternator-to-starter motor wiring conduit was so tight across the front of the timing cover that I annoyingly had to disconnect it at both the starter and the alternator ends first (more commonly this is routed 'around the back'). Not a fuse in sight.Just sayin'.
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