Discussion
My 500 runs at about 85 degrees on open road at about 60/70 mph.
Fans are working, and kick in just under 90 degrees.
When I get into traffic though, the temp starts to climb pretty rapidly to late 90s/approaching a ton.
bearing in mind that I'm going to be on the M25 in rush hour tomorrow, just a tad worried.
What's the top temp to safely drive her?
Putting the blowers on hot seems to vent the temp enough to keep it constant, but this is ery far from ideal!
I fitted the hot start kit a few weeks ago, which has cured that problem - could it have caused the car to run hotter?
Thoughts on curing this greatly appreciated.
D
Fans are working, and kick in just under 90 degrees.
When I get into traffic though, the temp starts to climb pretty rapidly to late 90s/approaching a ton.
bearing in mind that I'm going to be on the M25 in rush hour tomorrow, just a tad worried.
What's the top temp to safely drive her?
Putting the blowers on hot seems to vent the temp enough to keep it constant, but this is ery far from ideal!
I fitted the hot start kit a few weeks ago, which has cured that problem - could it have caused the car to run hotter?
Thoughts on curing this greatly appreciated.
D
My 400 runs about 70 on the open road and the fans kick in at just over 85 in traffic. Haven't seen above 90 but a friend with a bored out engine (to 460) regularly sees high 90s. Not sure if this is a help - but you're welcome to the info. Probabl;y worth calling a good main dealer - Racing Green might have a pretty good idea.
Why not put in an over-ride switch (2 wires to stat at rad and 1 wire to +ve on fan motor for a indicator light). I think it works very well. When I come into traffic I switch it on and engine stays near enough at same temp as when I switched it on at (85)
I think it is better to keep engine at same temp as much as possible.
I think it is better to keep engine at same temp as much as possible.
I don't really worry about anything overheating, the fans kick in and the temperature stays constant.
If the motorway is really slow (ie 0mph), I would suggest just pulling the bonnet catch (amazing difference to heat loss), pull onto the hard shoulder and replace it once things get moving again. Don't forget!
If the motorway is really slow (ie 0mph), I would suggest just pulling the bonnet catch (amazing difference to heat loss), pull onto the hard shoulder and replace it once things get moving again. Don't forget!
I've seen 125C 
on my temp gauge when normal running was 90-100C. Problem was the otter switch had packed in.
Found by accident that running the aircon switched on the cooling fans too.
The temp sender has been subsequently changed and I've got some irreversable temperature strips now to calibrate the gauge against.
>> Edited by jonathant on Thursday 23 June 15:13
on my temp gauge when normal running was 90-100C. Problem was the otter switch had packed in. Found by accident that running the aircon switched on the cooling fans too.
The temp sender has been subsequently changed and I've got some irreversable temperature strips now to calibrate the gauge against.
>> Edited by jonathant on Thursday 23 June 15:13
The temps you are seeing are "normal" depending on your guage and sender.My temp sender packed up last week after 8 years of sterling service. It used to show
70 - cruise
85 - crawl
90 - stop/start (with fans working)
never normally saw higher
Now after new sender (i.e. same guage/wiring etc.) it shows
80 - cruise
92 - crawl
97 - stop/start.
Having used one of these laser temp sensor things it would appear that the old guage under read and the new one over reads slightly (nerve racking at first). You just get to learn what your car does.
As an aside, when the wiring to one of my fans failed, I saw 100 on the old guage. No problem really and no lasting effects but the engine sounded decidely unhappy (lumpy idle, hunting). There are plenty of warnings of impending doom.
Leave the otter switch alone. If you go for a lower temp one the fans never switch off in any sort of traffic bringing on premature wear/failure and there is no comforting cycling of the fans to let you know all is well. Fit an over-ride switch/indicator light. It has all of the benfits of cooling the car in traffic with none of the downsides. Seeing the light come on gives you faith that the fans are working (can't always hear them above the engine!!!)
Kevin
70 - cruise
85 - crawl
90 - stop/start (with fans working)
never normally saw higher
Now after new sender (i.e. same guage/wiring etc.) it shows
80 - cruise
92 - crawl
97 - stop/start.
Having used one of these laser temp sensor things it would appear that the old guage under read and the new one over reads slightly (nerve racking at first). You just get to learn what your car does.
As an aside, when the wiring to one of my fans failed, I saw 100 on the old guage. No problem really and no lasting effects but the engine sounded decidely unhappy (lumpy idle, hunting). There are plenty of warnings of impending doom.
Leave the otter switch alone. If you go for a lower temp one the fans never switch off in any sort of traffic bringing on premature wear/failure and there is no comforting cycling of the fans to let you know all is well. Fit an over-ride switch/indicator light. It has all of the benfits of cooling the car in traffic with none of the downsides. Seeing the light come on gives you faith that the fans are working (can't always hear them above the engine!!!)
Kevin
I have a similar problem temp seems to rise quicker than it used to even with fan over ride on temp keeps on rising when in traffic hovers just under 120 degrees but no steam or loss of water. Previously if over ride switched on at 80 degrees temp would stay at 80 degrees. Also twice now after stopping car has refused to start had to wait five mins before it would sart which has never happened before any ideas?
Okay,
Worked out what the actual problem is after a closer inspection. Drivers side fan is not working at all.
The cigarette lighter switch also stopped working last week. coincidence or related?
Going for a bit of a play when the lightning stops.
Any handy hints?
expect to try the following......
Fuse would be the first port of call.
then check power to fan (but other one is working and it seems that the power goes into the passenger side one first so would expect to not be working too.)
otter switch next?
Worked out what the actual problem is after a closer inspection. Drivers side fan is not working at all.
The cigarette lighter switch also stopped working last week. coincidence or related?
Going for a bit of a play when the lightning stops.
Any handy hints?
expect to try the following......
Fuse would be the first port of call.
then check power to fan (but other one is working and it seems that the power goes into the passenger side one first so would expect to not be working too.)
otter switch next?
Hi there,
There's alot of sound advice on here and here's my 5penneth worth..
Firstly, make sure everything is working as nature intended... i.e. Make sure the fans do cut in and that they both work..
The Chimaera (like most TVR's) is very sensitive in the cooling department and wont tolerate non-working fans etc..
Secondly, once you know everything is working correctly get a feel as to what is normal in your car.
The guages vary from car to car so 70 degrees on one car could be indicating 75 or possibly nearer 80 on another...
Things like override switches are great to have as a fail-safe or emergency situation but i wouldnt recommend using one every time you get into traffic as it could be hiding other problems..
Also before you jump at fitting a cooler thermostat etc remember that the car needs to be warm just as much as it needs to be cool.. If on the open road the car is running too cold (under 70 degrees ish) then the car will be out of its sweet spot and will be generating less power, using more fuel, and potentially generating additional engine wear!!
IF in doubt spend a few quid getting the cooling system inspected.. That way you will have a good start to a) having peace of mind knowing all is ok and b) when anything does go wrong you will notice a difference in the characteristics of the guages / car.
I hope that helps.
cheers,
Nick
There's alot of sound advice on here and here's my 5penneth worth..
Firstly, make sure everything is working as nature intended... i.e. Make sure the fans do cut in and that they both work..
The Chimaera (like most TVR's) is very sensitive in the cooling department and wont tolerate non-working fans etc..
Secondly, once you know everything is working correctly get a feel as to what is normal in your car.
The guages vary from car to car so 70 degrees on one car could be indicating 75 or possibly nearer 80 on another...
Things like override switches are great to have as a fail-safe or emergency situation but i wouldnt recommend using one every time you get into traffic as it could be hiding other problems..
Also before you jump at fitting a cooler thermostat etc remember that the car needs to be warm just as much as it needs to be cool.. If on the open road the car is running too cold (under 70 degrees ish) then the car will be out of its sweet spot and will be generating less power, using more fuel, and potentially generating additional engine wear!!
IF in doubt spend a few quid getting the cooling system inspected.. That way you will have a good start to a) having peace of mind knowing all is ok and b) when anything does go wrong you will notice a difference in the characteristics of the guages / car.
I hope that helps.
cheers,
Nick
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