Last job following chassis off restoration
Discussion
After 3 years I'm almost ready for the post chassis restoration MoT. When I came to check the dash electrics, I noticed the ice warning light was staying on... checked through a few threads on here and replaced a very corroded thermistor behind the front number plate - job done, ice warning light now cycles through the colours at switch on, then goes off. Great.
Now I'm looking at the brake warning light and I get nothing at switch on. All the other dash LEDs are working OK. The cars owner handbook tells me the brake warning light should come on when the handbrake is pulled up and also it will come on independently if the brake fluid reservoir level drops too far.
I've tested the fluid level switch and that's working fine. I get 12.5v+ at the fluid switch terminals, but when I operate the switch, no light on dash. I move on to the handbrake switch (it was replaced as part of the rebuild) disconnect it and bridge across the two wires - still no warning light on the dash. I try bridging both switches simultaneously and no light appears.
I'm really hoping you guys can tell me I've missed something, as I'm not looking forward to taking the dash apart to test the brake warning LED...
Have I missed something?
Now I'm looking at the brake warning light and I get nothing at switch on. All the other dash LEDs are working OK. The cars owner handbook tells me the brake warning light should come on when the handbrake is pulled up and also it will come on independently if the brake fluid reservoir level drops too far.
I've tested the fluid level switch and that's working fine. I get 12.5v+ at the fluid switch terminals, but when I operate the switch, no light on dash. I move on to the handbrake switch (it was replaced as part of the rebuild) disconnect it and bridge across the two wires - still no warning light on the dash. I try bridging both switches simultaneously and no light appears.
I'm really hoping you guys can tell me I've missed something, as I'm not looking forward to taking the dash apart to test the brake warning LED...
Have I missed something?
The circuit is.
Fuse 16, resister, LED, black/yellow wire to handbrake or black/white wire to fluid level.
If all your other instruments are working then F16 is OK
You don't say if you have proven the earths at each switch.
It may be worth trying a test lamp at each switch rather than a multimeter. A meter may show 12V but may only be a few milliamps of current.
Steve
Fuse 16, resister, LED, black/yellow wire to handbrake or black/white wire to fluid level.
If all your other instruments are working then F16 is OK
You don't say if you have proven the earths at each switch.
It may be worth trying a test lamp at each switch rather than a multimeter. A meter may show 12V but may only be a few milliamps of current.
Steve
QBee said:
All depends on the length and width of your arms. Mine turned out to be exactly right for that job
A new career beckons as the travelling TVR door card exposer and could serve to be fairly lucrative as most mechanics have arms like Popeyes
and hate the idea of going in there 
This reminds me of a number of TVR related jobs we all fear then realise mostly these cars have a few f
k buggery bits but mostly are nice cars to work on. 
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