66000 service

[parrot of doom]

Just had this done at Middlewich MOT centre (ex TVR mechanic), and the following problems were highlighted:

OSR Shock starting to leak
Signs of NS shock starting to go

Cracking rubbers on both engine mounts
Slight oil leak from sump (tightened)
Slight leak from diff


The leaks I'm not worried about, there is never any oil under the car when its parked up, and the mechanic said it was fine and to be expected.

Obviously the shocks need sorting. My question is, with the aid of a very experienced motor mechanic friend of mine, how easy a job is this to do? I only want standard shocks, nothing fancy as I mainly cruise around in the car, I don't do track days etc.

The engine mounts - again, how easy a job is this?

[jod]

To change the shocks is no problem,wire brush,easing oil and a good set of spanners.The bottom long bolt on the rear suspension mount can be a pig to get out,take your time and use a jack underneath the suspension mount to get the correct alignment to remove the bolt without stripping the thread.
I fancy changing the engine mounts,let me know how you get on.

[petros]

Use the man myself, Bit of a jaunt from Wolverhampton but his rates are excellent and he certainly know his stuff when it comes to TVRs.

[Corin Denton]

You would be better off going for AVOs, they are cheaper and a doddle to fit on due to adjustable spring platforms.

The job is fairly easy, getting spring clamps for the rear can be a pain though

[s4s280]

Go on POD - buy some Nitrons - cruise speed my butt !

[parrot of doom]

What model of Avos do I need to get, and should I also replace the springs or will they be ok?

Do I also need to replace any bushes or other stuff?

>> Edited by parrot of doom on Tuesday 28th June 22:43

[Corin Denton]

Standard springs work fine, wishbone bushes are nice to at the same time but optional.

Failing that I have a standard set of shocks in the garage?

[.Mark]

I second the Avo's did mine a couple of years ago, both rears replaced and height adjusted in 1.5 hours on the driveway. I've not done the fronts yet but a word of advice on the rears, don't remove the top bolt completely it can be a bugger to get back in.

Joolz suppied mine at a very reasonable price and even fitted the new springs on the damper for me - give himn a call.

[NormanButcher]

My advice would be to go for SPAX. I have a set of the latest Krypton gas filled dampers and they give an excellent balance between compressin and rebound. They also have a huge range of adjustment, from Sunday drive to track day on a smooth circuit. They are also good value.

[parrot of doom]

Got the Avo shocks delivered today:



What tool is required to adjust the collars, or is it just a hammer and screwdriver type arrangement? There is a grub screw to retain them once adjusted correctly.

[.Mark]

parrot of doom said:

Got the Avo shocks delivered today: What tool is required to adjust the collars, or is it just a hammer and screwdriver type arrangement? There is a grub screw to retain them once adjusted correctly.

I used a set of mole grips to turn them, if they have the correct sized jaws they fit really well. There should be a grub screw through the collar that pinches on to the thread of the damper.
You can buy a special tool to adjust them from Demon Tweaks or some such but I figured for a one off it wasn't worth it.

[.Mark]

Also,
When you fit them put the damper rate at full -tive and then wind up evenly both sides until you get a comfy ride for teh roads around you - I guess it took me about a week to find the right setting - from memory mine are on about 13 clicks.

1 click is fun though, the are very soft but on a mini-roundabout half way round you can floor it in 1st and loose not traction just get great acceleration

[Bob the Planner]

Kiddie

[parrot of doom]

I was advised to put them on 8-9 clicks, run it for a thousand miles or so, and then re-check the ride height as the springs sag?

How does the adjustable mechanism work internally, any ideas?

[icb]

Used Ian myself for my Griff, top bloke. For internal workings, the Nitron site is very informative.

[.Mark]

Bob the Planner said:

Kiddie

Who!? Me!? No never

[victormeldrew]

parrot of doom said:

I was advised to put them on 8-9 clicks, run it for a thousand miles or so, and then re-check the ride height as the springs sag? How does the adjustable mechanism work internally, any ideas?

Damping is normally a function of restricting flow of oil through holes. Adjustable damping usually means allowing adjustment of the size of the holes. Possibly rotating a plate to misalign the holes, or a offset cam to protrude into a hole restricting the flow.

Used to have great fun with motorbike forks mixing different oils to get the best damping, before adjustable forks were the norm.