Discussion
Morning all,
I have been lurking for a while and reading some of the brilliant threads here. There are some fabulous resto's and great hints and tips so thanks to all those who have taken the time to contribute.
I had a 400 back in the late 90s which i absolutely loved but a posting to Germany took me to the Porsche dark side. I must have had a good 'un as in 2 years it never once let me down (although I did need a new engine after a chance encounter with a flooded road)
Lo ved it and always thought I would go back.
So, rolling on to now and I have taken this on
450 in Canyon Red with PAS. Leaked like a sieve (don't remember that being a problem in 1998!!) when I got it but have since proofed the hood 4 times, fitted some bits of bicycle inner tube (who knew?) and pasted half a tube of RTV in the engine bay. That all seems to have helped and even storm Christophe couldn't get in.
Car has not done many miles in the last 5 years and had a diff rebuild (by Topcats I think)
So some upgrades to think about beyond the general maintenance to coax it back to regular service.
1. Interior refresh (leather/carpets and maybe alcantara on the door panels)inc moving the fuse box to behind the seat
2. Battery move to the boot
3. Like the look of ACT carbon trumpets
4. suspension bushes need checking
5. had new GAZ shocks 13,000 miles ago, the PO replaced Nitrons for some reason
6. change diff oil (Topcats rebuilt the diff in Dec 15, 4,000 miles ago, at the same time they replaced the rad and rebuilt the steering rack)
7. get the geometry checked - what settings are people using that works?
8. new injectors on the way - can't imagine the originals are in great shape - thanks Chimpongas and others for the Bosch steer)
9. the veneer is peeling so a SS dash fascia
10. bit of welding to the outriggers for MOT (going to my MOT guy tonight) - then body off next winter for a proper chassis overhaul.
Really enjoyed reading all the info and looking forward to contributing
Cheers
Paul
9.
I have been lurking for a while and reading some of the brilliant threads here. There are some fabulous resto's and great hints and tips so thanks to all those who have taken the time to contribute.
I had a 400 back in the late 90s which i absolutely loved but a posting to Germany took me to the Porsche dark side. I must have had a good 'un as in 2 years it never once let me down (although I did need a new engine after a chance encounter with a flooded road)
Lo ved it and always thought I would go back.So, rolling on to now and I have taken this on
450 in Canyon Red with PAS. Leaked like a sieve (don't remember that being a problem in 1998!!) when I got it but have since proofed the hood 4 times, fitted some bits of bicycle inner tube (who knew?) and pasted half a tube of RTV in the engine bay. That all seems to have helped and even storm Christophe couldn't get in.
Car has not done many miles in the last 5 years and had a diff rebuild (by Topcats I think)
So some upgrades to think about beyond the general maintenance to coax it back to regular service.
1. Interior refresh (leather/carpets and maybe alcantara on the door panels)inc moving the fuse box to behind the seat
2. Battery move to the boot
3. Like the look of ACT carbon trumpets
4. suspension bushes need checking
5. had new GAZ shocks 13,000 miles ago, the PO replaced Nitrons for some reason
6. change diff oil (Topcats rebuilt the diff in Dec 15, 4,000 miles ago, at the same time they replaced the rad and rebuilt the steering rack)
7. get the geometry checked - what settings are people using that works?
8. new injectors on the way - can't imagine the originals are in great shape - thanks Chimpongas and others for the Bosch steer)
9. the veneer is peeling so a SS dash fascia
10. bit of welding to the outriggers for MOT (going to my MOT guy tonight) - then body off next winter for a proper chassis overhaul.
Really enjoyed reading all the info and looking forward to contributing
Cheers
Paul
9.
Well cool dude.
Sounds like a plan to me.
Those in the know have always known this variant of TVR have always been basically reliable so you were right all along.
Oh and welcome back,, if it’s a keeper consider an ecu upgrade over all other performance mods if you want ultra reliability but it’s not essential. It will usually do a lot more for the cars general power performance and engine well being and sorts most of the glitches the old system can suffer from.
I see it has RAINSPORT tyres. They should be pretty decent in all weathers.
More pictures sir
About 3/4 to 1 degree of camber all round but I can’t remember toe in off hand. Someone will be along shortly
Don’t run 2.5 degrees, it’s ace in corners but wears those tyres out in 200 miles,,,,,
Sounds like a plan to me.
Those in the know have always known this variant of TVR have always been basically reliable so you were right all along.
Oh and welcome back,, if it’s a keeper consider an ecu upgrade over all other performance mods if you want ultra reliability but it’s not essential. It will usually do a lot more for the cars general power performance and engine well being and sorts most of the glitches the old system can suffer from.
I see it has RAINSPORT tyres. They should be pretty decent in all weathers.
More pictures sir
About 3/4 to 1 degree of camber all round but I can’t remember toe in off hand. Someone will be along shortly
Don’t run 2.5 degrees, it’s ace in corners but wears those tyres out in 200 miles,,,,,
Edited by Classic Chim on Friday 22 January 10:27
Edited by Classic Chim on Friday 22 January 10:29
Edited by Classic Chim on Friday 22 January 10:29
Edited by Classic Chim on Friday 22 January 10:30
Thanks for the welcome Alun,
I have thought about the ECU and been a bit bewildered by all of the choices so more research required. I have a long term project to put FI into one of my Stags - by long term i mean I've had all of the bits for some time but not yet done anything with it) which came with an ancient MBE ecu.
Not sure if an ECU update is a DIY job on the Chimaera, although I am sure somebody out there has done it themselves. Any helpful steers would be gratefully received.
I'm also flirting with wheels - seen some 17 7.5J Prorace 1.2 which look quite nice. ET 45 though so I think I'll keep looking.
I'll post some more pics later, meanwhile here's one of one of the Stags in the middle of a rebuild -
I have thought about the ECU and been a bit bewildered by all of the choices so more research required. I have a long term project to put FI into one of my Stags - by long term i mean I've had all of the bits for some time but not yet done anything with it) which came with an ancient MBE ecu.
Not sure if an ECU update is a DIY job on the Chimaera, although I am sure somebody out there has done it themselves. Any helpful steers would be gratefully received.
I'm also flirting with wheels - seen some 17 7.5J Prorace 1.2 which look quite nice. ET 45 though so I think I'll keep looking.
I'll post some more pics later, meanwhile here's one of one of the Stags in the middle of a rebuild -
Gord alive lol
That’s a beast in the making.
The 3 main ECU used and supported by TVR dealers would be
MBE (Powers Performance)
Emerald (Kits and Classics )
Canem ( LLoyds )
All these have rolling road facilities available etc.
Both Jools from Kits and Classics and obviously Jason and Dom at Powers Performance have mapped hundreds and hundreds of these cars so my go to specialists but others are available et a base map.
I think for the cost involved it’s just safer to let one of these have the car until it’s completed and mapped but if you have the tech ability not so hard to change the engine wiring loom and sensors yourself so home installation more than possible.
You usually get a base map to get it running but will require rolling road time so taking all that into the equation it’s usually better and good value on my view to allow the big boys to install it. Adds kudos too
That’s a beast in the making.
The 3 main ECU used and supported by TVR dealers would be
MBE (Powers Performance)
Emerald (Kits and Classics )
Canem ( LLoyds )
All these have rolling road facilities available etc.
Both Jools from Kits and Classics and obviously Jason and Dom at Powers Performance have mapped hundreds and hundreds of these cars so my go to specialists but others are available et a base map.
I think for the cost involved it’s just safer to let one of these have the car until it’s completed and mapped but if you have the tech ability not so hard to change the engine wiring loom and sensors yourself so home installation more than possible.
You usually get a base map to get it running but will require rolling road time so taking all that into the equation it’s usually better and good value on my view to allow the big boys to install it. Adds kudos too
You were brave taking on that one! I went to inspect it myself along with a few other cars before the online auction at Brightwells in December but a few things deterred my bids. The dash needing doing isn't a biggy really (maybe consider carbon effect wrap?), but the seat leather looked like needing attention and the inability to inspect the chassis properly put me off, and no test drives of course. Correctly it appears!
https://www.brightwells.com/lot-details/496563
I've had 3 x Chimaera and they all leaked. 2 into the footwells in rain, some are worse than others, never through the hood IME. I did have one leaking through the stitching of the rear window seam. It had bee replaced but wasn't completely watertight.
https://www.brightwells.com/lot-details/496563
I've had 3 x Chimaera and they all leaked. 2 into the footwells in rain, some are worse than others, never through the hood IME. I did have one leaking through the stitching of the rear window seam. It had bee replaced but wasn't completely watertight.
Hi sixor8,
She drives well enough, I had forgotten how addictive the torque is and I think I've got the leaks under control now, last couple of rain days have not resulted in the driver's footwell looking like a koi pond
. She'll be in a garage when my builder gets his finger out so that isn't so much of a worry.
The interior isn't bad, it's just 20 years old so I reckon a furniture clinic kit will have it looking decent. If not I know a man who can.
I knew the outriggers would be an issue but the previous maintenance on the car (diff/rad/suspension/steering rack) balanced it all out for me in a man maths kind of way.
When you're used to Stags a few £ on DIY outrigger corrosion repair is a bargain tbh, especially as I plan to keep it for a while.
All the best
Paul
She drives well enough, I had forgotten how addictive the torque is and I think I've got the leaks under control now, last couple of rain days have not resulted in the driver's footwell looking like a koi pond
. She'll be in a garage when my builder gets his finger out so that isn't so much of a worry. The interior isn't bad, it's just 20 years old so I reckon a furniture clinic kit will have it looking decent. If not I know a man who can.
I knew the outriggers would be an issue but the previous maintenance on the car (diff/rad/suspension/steering rack) balanced it all out for me in a man maths kind of way.
When you're used to Stags a few £ on DIY outrigger corrosion repair is a bargain tbh, especially as I plan to keep it for a while.
All the best
Paul
I got these Geo settings gratefully recieved from TVR Parts ehmmm now Racing green
"As to the Geo settings I have been told.
Toe Settings
Front 0-1.5mm IN or (0-10 Minutes IN)
Rear- 3.00mm IN or (22 Minutes IN)
Camber Settings
Front 0.5 -0.75 Degrees Negative
Rear 1.25 Degrees Negative "
As for the inside upgrade have you considered furniture clinic...... ?
I did mine and was very happy with the results
"As to the Geo settings I have been told.
Toe Settings
Front 0-1.5mm IN or (0-10 Minutes IN)
Rear- 3.00mm IN or (22 Minutes IN)
Camber Settings
Front 0.5 -0.75 Degrees Negative
Rear 1.25 Degrees Negative "
As for the inside upgrade have you considered furniture clinic...... ?
I did mine and was very happy with the results
I phoned them and asked for advice - sent through some photo's of the original seats.
In the end I purchased semi-matt matched magnolia + some black (for the rest of the interior), heavy filler (not needed in the end), leather protective cream, leather binder, crosslinker Eco.
The semi matt finish looked a bit too matt for my liking so I mixed it with some gloss finisher as the final stage.
Used cross link eco to improve paint binding - especially on my vinyl parts, but I used it every where.
Connected up an external compressor - the colourant is quite thick and the spay gun blocked regularly and needed cleaning - added some unfriendly drops whilst spaying - a dab with a supplied sponge resolves this issue.
Did what it said on the can....
In the end I purchased semi-matt matched magnolia + some black (for the rest of the interior), heavy filler (not needed in the end), leather protective cream, leather binder, crosslinker Eco.
The semi matt finish looked a bit too matt for my liking so I mixed it with some gloss finisher as the final stage.
Used cross link eco to improve paint binding - especially on my vinyl parts, but I used it every where.
Connected up an external compressor - the colourant is quite thick and the spay gun blocked regularly and needed cleaning - added some unfriendly drops whilst spaying - a dab with a supplied sponge resolves this issue.
Did what it said on the can....
Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff