tune resistor out of range
Discussion
It needs to be the same value, the same tolerance, and have the same temperature rating.
Just snip it out, take it to Maplin etc, and get an identical one. I bet it costs about 1 pence tops.
If the coloured bands are burnt out on yours, let me know and I'll read the value from mine so you can get a new one.
Just snip it out, take it to Maplin etc, and get an identical one. I bet it costs about 1 pence tops.
If the coloured bands are burnt out on yours, let me know and I'll read the value from mine so you can get a new one.
You don't need to measure it, Dave Beer has already told you what value it should be:
470 ohm for for non cat,3900 for cat
If you have lambda sensors and/or a cat, you should use the cat value.
If you have neither lambda sensors nor cat, you should use the non-cat value.
If you aren't sure what you have and don't know how to find out then this probably isn't the sort of thing you should be fiddling with.
470 ohm for for non cat,3900 for cat
If you have lambda sensors and/or a cat, you should use the cat value.
If you have neither lambda sensors nor cat, you should use the non-cat value.
If you aren't sure what you have and don't know how to find out then this probably isn't the sort of thing you should be fiddling with.
hopefully daivid beer will read this!!!
i changed the tune resistor for a 470 ohms one and it ran like a complete pig...put a new 3900 ohms in and it ran really well...trouble is i still have the tune sensor error reading when i connect the ECU reader!!!
By the way i disconnected the vaccum hose and it does not seem to have made any difference...!!!
i changed the tune resistor for a 470 ohms one and it ran like a complete pig...put a new 3900 ohms in and it ran really well...trouble is i still have the tune sensor error reading when i connect the ECU reader!!!
By the way i disconnected the vaccum hose and it does not seem to have made any difference...!!!
At the risk of duplicating some content I just did on the TVRCC forum, I too did the vac line disconnect, not change, even having reset the ECU and run for a good few miles.
Have not changed any resistor yet, but did want to just to see short term what difference it made.
Back to andys post ...
With the green resistor it ran like a pig, changing to the white it was better.
Did you at anytime reset the ECU on change of resistor ?
You say it runs better with the white resistor, what is the reading of the old white resistor.
David stated the ohms readings, but also, David, what was the reading on the damaged resistor ?
Just trying to work out the "threshold" of the resistors on the ECU, the Range Rover resistors on Rimmer Bros are
Red - (1) - PRC8005
Yellow - (1) - PRC8007
White - (1) - PRC8009
Green - (1) - PRC8172
Blue - (1) - AMR2016
David also, theres quite a jump in 470 to 3900 ohms if there are two maps in the ECU, can an adhoc dodgy tune resistor flick in and out the two maps if they are populated ?
Have not changed any resistor yet, but did want to just to see short term what difference it made.
Back to andys post ...
With the green resistor it ran like a pig, changing to the white it was better.
Did you at anytime reset the ECU on change of resistor ?
You say it runs better with the white resistor, what is the reading of the old white resistor.
David stated the ohms readings, but also, David, what was the reading on the damaged resistor ?
Just trying to work out the "threshold" of the resistors on the ECU, the Range Rover resistors on Rimmer Bros are
Red - (1) - PRC8005
Yellow - (1) - PRC8007
White - (1) - PRC8009
Green - (1) - PRC8172
Blue - (1) - AMR2016
David also, theres quite a jump in 470 to 3900 ohms if there are two maps in the ECU, can an adhoc dodgy tune resistor flick in and out the two maps if they are populated ?
If you use the green resistor, you MUST disconnect the lambdas at the connection 6-12 inches from the lambda sensors themselves. Otherwise it WILL run like a very confused pig!
I wouldn't assume that yours is a non-cat though. Sounds like something someone would say to increase the purchase price but it's relatively expensive to get a non-cat pipe and you are likely to have MOT problems.
Ian A.
I wouldn't assume that yours is a non-cat though. Sounds like something someone would say to increase the purchase price but it's relatively expensive to get a non-cat pipe and you are likely to have MOT problems.
Ian A.
The pre cat cars did not have such a big pipe just where the two pipes join. This is the area where the main cat sits.
If the car has been completely decatted then the main cat box will have a weld line around it where it has been hacked open, and re welded. The standard weld will be quite neat and you can always tell the difference between them.
If the car has been completely decatted then the main cat box will have a weld line around it where it has been hacked open, and re welded. The standard weld will be quite neat and you can always tell the difference between them.
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