Alternative advice..
Discussion
Hi all, hope you and the car are enjoying the good weather!
Need a bit of advice from those of you who have been in a similar stuation that I describe here-
On Friday night my car died, electrically, on the way home from work. Called the AA assuming it was the 100 amp fuse link- as the radio died and then the engine splutered to a halt (without the alternator light coming on).
AA man fiinds 13.4amps each side of the link with the alternator supplying around 11 volts back to the battery- not enough of a drain to activate the dash light, but enough to kill the battery- therefore the alternator's knackered..
Ok, so I spent Saturday afternoon removing the alternator (after taking off the top hose, vacuum advance and dizzy cap etc. to access the bottom bolt) and was quoted £289 for a replacement from a local motor factor and £390 from Halfrauds:yikes:!
I then went on-line and I've ordered a new A127i-100 amp unit from Berkley Brothers, which will arrive tomorrow.. (I'm aware that I could've got the original re-brushed, but I need a quick solution, and, as I've bought 'mail order', this is not an exchange situation, I can re-furbish the original unit should anything go wrong).
Anyway, I happened to take a call from Tower View Racing today and spoke to them about fitting the new unit. Other than their tip about the adjustable fitment sleeves, is there anything else I should be aware of?
I didn't disconnect the battery on Saturday btw, It would've invalidated my insurance- even on a car sans alternator!
Appreciate any advice as always guys.
Oh, just realised that it's after 2am- my new alternator will have arrived before I have a chance to respond to anyone posting! Feel free to offer advice though, for the greater community..
Need a bit of advice from those of you who have been in a similar stuation that I describe here-
On Friday night my car died, electrically, on the way home from work. Called the AA assuming it was the 100 amp fuse link- as the radio died and then the engine splutered to a halt (without the alternator light coming on).
AA man fiinds 13.4amps each side of the link with the alternator supplying around 11 volts back to the battery- not enough of a drain to activate the dash light, but enough to kill the battery- therefore the alternator's knackered..
Ok, so I spent Saturday afternoon removing the alternator (after taking off the top hose, vacuum advance and dizzy cap etc. to access the bottom bolt) and was quoted £289 for a replacement from a local motor factor and £390 from Halfrauds:yikes:!
I then went on-line and I've ordered a new A127i-100 amp unit from Berkley Brothers, which will arrive tomorrow.. (I'm aware that I could've got the original re-brushed, but I need a quick solution, and, as I've bought 'mail order', this is not an exchange situation, I can re-furbish the original unit should anything go wrong).
Anyway, I happened to take a call from Tower View Racing today and spoke to them about fitting the new unit. Other than their tip about the adjustable fitment sleeves, is there anything else I should be aware of?
I didn't disconnect the battery on Saturday btw, It would've invalidated my insurance- even on a car sans alternator!
Appreciate any advice as always guys.
Oh, just realised that it's after 2am- my new alternator will have arrived before I have a chance to respond to anyone posting! Feel free to offer advice though, for the greater community..
Up-date.. and a bit more specific help wanted please.
I duly received the alternator today and it's now all connected up and bolted in tightly etc. But.. how the hell do you pull the tension pulley back so that the two round lugs slot into their positions on the pivot?
I've tried levering the pulley outwards with a long metal bar and no joy- the belt just won't give that little bit of slack that's needed.
If anyone's succeeded in doing this, please give me a clue.
Thanks in advance.
I duly received the alternator today and it's now all connected up and bolted in tightly etc. But.. how the hell do you pull the tension pulley back so that the two round lugs slot into their positions on the pivot?
I've tried levering the pulley outwards with a long metal bar and no joy- the belt just won't give that little bit of slack that's needed.
If anyone's succeeded in doing this, please give me a clue.
Thanks in advance.
Quiet on this one ! The belt should only be put back on after all the bolts are in ! Then its just a question of levering the tensioner(sp) so as to slip the belt back on. It is a "serp", it must be if its got a tensioner? My belt has "popped owf" on two occasions, no ignition light(charge light) but the temp guage was the clue !
Did you not try replacing the regulator?? This comes as a module including the brushes and brush box and is fairly simple to fit once the alternator is off. Costs about £30 from most reputable motor electrical factors. Lot cheaper than a new alternator. If however you have reason to believe the rectifier has failed (diode problems) this is more tricky and difficult to sort short of replacment alternator. Over the years I've had several regulator failures on various cars but only once a rectifier. Ah, i see David Beer has got there first, meant to mention the tensioner. I presume its a serp engine given the A127I alternator and tensioner. I had no real problem levering the tensioner with a long screwdriver and wedging it into the 'loose' position with a spare nut placed between the cast stop and the lug on the base of the arm.
david beer said:
Quiet on this one ! The belt should only be put back on after all the bolts are in ! Then its just a question of levering the tensioner(sp) so as to slip the belt back on. It is a "serp", it must be if its got a tensioner? My belt has "popped owf" on two occasions, no ignition light(charge light) but the temp guage was the clue !
Thanks David- yeah, it's an early serp engine.
The two alternator bolts are nice and tight (after tapping the two brass sleeves into place before fitting).
I just cannot seem to prise the tension pulley back (toward offside) far enough for it to 'click' into it's place on the lump under the alternator.
Does that make sense? My problem is illustrated on the 3rd photo in Steve's Bible 2- page 124.
(Thanks for replies- but my idiocy requires more info eg: I presume you have to have the poly V belt in place prior to tensioning by levering?!!)
David, I really appreciate you taking the time to post your advice
.
I did finally crack the problem this afternoon (erm, after a quick call to the boys at Tower View).
I had made the mistake of loosening the tensioner bolt when taking the belt off (instead of realising the unit is sprung
)
So, I assumed it was a reverse of this proceedure to replace the belt and was trying to pull the tensioner outward on that bolt with the belt in place.
I feel a bit silly- and I hope you can understand why I felt I was at an impasse. But hey, at least I've been honest about my idiocy.
Anyhow, I'm now charging up the battery and, with luck, all will be well tomorrow morning.
Thanks again.
. I did finally crack the problem this afternoon (erm, after a quick call to the boys at Tower View).
I had made the mistake of loosening the tensioner bolt when taking the belt off (instead of realising the unit is sprung
) So, I assumed it was a reverse of this proceedure to replace the belt and was trying to pull the tensioner outward on that bolt with the belt in place.
I feel a bit silly- and I hope you can understand why I felt I was at an impasse. But hey, at least I've been honest about my idiocy.
Anyhow, I'm now charging up the battery and, with luck, all will be well tomorrow morning.
Thanks again.
Erm, more help needed I'm afraid.
I boosted the battery, refitted it today and the engine ignited beautifuly after turning the key.........
but the alternator dash light glowed very red!
Obviously current is not going back to the battery and I'm jinxed.
As said in the first post, I know the fuse-link is ok and I double checked the rear contacts when fitting the new alternator. Also, the engine runs sweetly so I know there's no problem with the coil, leads. dizzy etc. (apart from the non power return to battery)!.
Could this be an 'earth' problem?
Any help would be appreciated..
I boosted the battery, refitted it today and the engine ignited beautifuly after turning the key.........
but the alternator dash light glowed very red!
Obviously current is not going back to the battery and I'm jinxed.
As said in the first post, I know the fuse-link is ok and I double checked the rear contacts when fitting the new alternator. Also, the engine runs sweetly so I know there's no problem with the coil, leads. dizzy etc. (apart from the non power return to battery)!.
Could this be an 'earth' problem?
Any help would be appreciated..
kenny chim 4 said:
Erm, more help needed I'm afraid.
I boosted the battery, refitted it today and the engine ignited beautifuly after turning the key.........
but the alternator dash light glowed very red!
Obviously current is not going back to the battery and I'm jinxed.
As said in the first post, I know the fuse-link is ok and I double checked the rear contacts when fitting the new alternator. Also, the engine runs sweetly so I know there's no problem with the coil, leads. dizzy etc. (apart from the non power return to battery)!.
Could this be an 'earth' problem?
Any help would be appreciated..
You seem to have the same problem as me - i have an electrical engineer coming to look at mine today and will post up the solution later (or Oggs will
) See my thread Electrical Gremlin for my probs which is similar...
hughesie2 said:
Erm, more help needed I'm afraid.
I boosted the battery, refitted it today and the engine ignited beautifuly after turning the key.........
but the alternator dash light glowed very red!
Obviously current is not going back to the battery and I'm jinxed.
As said in the first post, I know the fuse-link is ok and I double checked the rear contacts when fitting the new alternator. Also, the engine runs sweetly so I know there's no problem with the coil, leads. dizzy etc. (apart from the non power return to battery)!.
Could this be an 'earth' problem?
Any help would be appreciated..
You seem to have the same problem as me - i have an electrical engineer coming to look at mine today and will post up the solution later (or Oggs will
See my thread Electrical Gremlin for my probs which is similar...
The update is..
The big fuse was changed as it was cracked and the earthing points all cleaned up...
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