Ride height

[parrot of doom]

[pic]http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tom.jeffs4/car%20stuff/ride%20height.jpg[/pic]

Put the new shocks on today (the old ones were utterly goosed).

Now then, its riding an inch or two lower I reckon. Do I screw that ring clockwise or anticlockwise, to increase the height?

[David H]

Well depends if you are looking at it from above or below lol

You need to screw it clockwise so that it turns the collar up the damper.

Are they AVOs?

[parrot of doom]

Yes they're Avos. Looking at the damper from below (well, when you're crouching, its pointing away from you, so clockwise).

I'm thick when it comes to cars (although I'm learning fast), but will it actually adjust the ride height, or just stiffen the suspension?

[David H]

It will raise the spring platform (increase ride height), it will not stiffen the ride.

>> Edited by David H on Thursday 14th July 19:54

[billynomates]

David H said:

Are they AVOs?

Looks like it to me....yep it's clockwise...

And if you have the new ones....ie Avos

Some say the bushes last as long as the old choc teapot job..... Well one actually.. less than 500 mls

[parrot of doom]

Right, I'll get a spanner from the shop tomorrow for that ring, and screw it up a bit more. Thanks for the help.

Anybody got any 'optimum height' suggestions? From the ground to the body please?

[billynomates]

parrot of doom said:

Right, I'll get a spanner from the shop tomorrow for that ring, and screw it up a bit more. Thanks for the help. Anybody got any 'optimum height' suggestions? From the ground to the body please?

Mmmmmm... don't think you need a spanner...just strong fingers.

[andy-w]

Dont raise it!!!...i think it looks really good how low the car sits and how the tyres fill the arches...!!!

[harrow_chim]

The correct ride height is a very good question - I'd be interested to know as well - and where it is measured from - presumably the corners of the chassis.
Anybody know?
Nick

[19560]

harrow_chim said:

The correct ride height is a very good question - I'd be interested to know as well - and where it is measured from - presumably the corners of the chassis.

Usually to the rear of the front wheels and to the front of the rear wheels and trying to get the suspension arms as horizontal as possible.

[harrow_chim]

19560 said:

trying to get the suspension arms as horizontal as possible.

Is that the wishbones?

[nztrev]

Ride height should be around 145/150mm from ground to bottom of chassis rail dependent on you rolling radius.

[bugsy]

19560 said:

harrow_chim said: The correct ride height is a very good question - I'd be interested to know as well - and where it is measured from - presumably the corners of the chassis. Usually to the rear of the front wheels and to the front of the rear wheels and trying to get the suspension arms as horizontal as possible.

Yep the above is sound advice, I presume the fronts have not been changed,IMHO you should adjust those rears up to give a level ride height,or with the rear no more than 5mm higher than the front.
BTW, I haven't heard of a Chim/Griff shreading the red bushes on the rears (the fronts are another question from what I have been told)

[bugsy]

nztrev said:

Ride height should be around 145/150mm from ground to bottom of chassis rail dependent on you rolling radius.

I set to 150mm but in this case the car has only had rear shocks changed, so with potentially saggy front springs and probably no adjustment on the front, proper ride height goes out the window, just getting it levelish would be a good start.

[bugsy]

BTW
DO NOT TRY AND ADJUST THE SPRINGSEAT HEIGHT WITHOUT FIRST LOOSENING THE GRUBSCREW THAT STOPS IT COMING UNDONE, you will need an allen key IIRC

>> Edited by bugsy on Friday 15th July 10:22

[parrot of doom]

Thanks Bugsy, I didn't get a chance to do it today but I've got most of tomorrow to sort it out. Think I'll take it to my mate's and borrow his trolley jack/blocks. I only have ramps and a scissor jack.

*must remember to steal sleeper from local disused railway line*

[spend]

This needs to be done on level ground BTW - and pref with the driver in the car (pedantic mode). I have found it much easier to go to the local laser aligment place and do it all at the same time, since the ride height interacts with the geometry settings. Just get the kid at the place closest to your weight and let him sit in the car for an hour. You need to be fairly confident you know what to adjust - and that they are all free (much of the suspension may never have been adjusted - even tho its included in the service.......) This is the biggest driving improvement per buck you will ever get IMHO.

Dave

[bugsy]

I can't tell properly from the photo if you changed the springs as well.
If you have old shocks and springs on the front and old springs on the back, IMHO you should just get it level and leave it till you can put some new springs on the back and new shocks and springs on the front because you would be wasting money doing a geo check at this stage.

[parrot of doom]

New shocks and new springs mate.

I've just been out and measured it on one side, the fronts are at 155mm which isn't surprising seeing as the front tyres are slightly too large (60's). The back is at 130mm, so I'm going to put the back up to about 150-155mm and that will do fine until the front tyres get corrected.

I don't race it or rag the arse off it, just cruiseing around (albeit at a higher than normal speed ) so its not mission critical to have everything 100% perfect, just so long as its not doing any damage to anything it will be fine

[bugsy]

Thats the way to do it.
When the fronts get leaky or the springs get too bouncy, change them then and get it set up properly, makes it handle better and probably will save some tyre wear.