Tvr Starting issues.
Discussion
I’m sure there’s lots around on this but I’m starting it from scratch as I can’t find a definitive guide to checking the basics.
If anyone can advise please do.
I have a 96 chimera from new.
Installed a new battery ,new leads a few years back( heavy duty)
Started her a few days ago, was running fine.
Fuel is showing ok.
Engine turned after 2 weeks fired up and then as I gassed it, maybe flooded it but than just died.
Left it for a day, and day 3, still not starting.
Engine turns over, but doesn’t feel like sparking.
Checked the coil with my meter resistance across primary and secondary is ok.
But not 12 v reaching once I turn the key.
Changed over the fuel pump relays, but buzz and appear to be working.
Immoblier opens and closes doors, have locked them for a few weeks.
Is it the ECU, how can I check it?
I’m a novice getting very frustrated.
If there’s a Tvr mechanic in west london free to do a home visit, let me know.
Cheers all
Seb
If anyone can advise please do.
I have a 96 chimera from new.
Installed a new battery ,new leads a few years back( heavy duty)
Started her a few days ago, was running fine.
Fuel is showing ok.
Engine turned after 2 weeks fired up and then as I gassed it, maybe flooded it but than just died.
Left it for a day, and day 3, still not starting.
Engine turns over, but doesn’t feel like sparking.
Checked the coil with my meter resistance across primary and secondary is ok.
But not 12 v reaching once I turn the key.
Changed over the fuel pump relays, but buzz and appear to be working.
Immoblier opens and closes doors, have locked them for a few weeks.
Is it the ECU, how can I check it?
I’m a novice getting very frustrated.
If there’s a Tvr mechanic in west london free to do a home visit, let me know.
Cheers all
Seb
If you can hear the pump running then it is not the immobiliser.
Check for +12v at the coil positive terminal which will most likely be a black wire. I say most likely because those wires get very crispy, break, and get replaced with whatever comes to hand. The crispy broken wire is a very strong contender in your case.
If you don't have +12v then before going any deeper trying to chase the fault run a wire direct to the coil from either the battery or the alternator and prove the engine will run.
Report back with your findings then I can guide you to other possible areas for lose of supply.
Steve
Check for +12v at the coil positive terminal which will most likely be a black wire. I say most likely because those wires get very crispy, break, and get replaced with whatever comes to hand. The crispy broken wire is a very strong contender in your case.
If you don't have +12v then before going any deeper trying to chase the fault run a wire direct to the coil from either the battery or the alternator and prove the engine will run.
Report back with your findings then I can guide you to other possible areas for lose of supply.
Steve
Thanks Steve.
No 12 v at the coil, measure across the two outer terminals , correct ?
No crispy wires visible although I haven’t opened up the whole loom. It’s wrapped in a sleeve and cable ties and a weirded wiring block !
I have a mobile 12 v battery boaster block, could I connect directly to the coil, does this do the same trick?
( I don’t have cables long enough to go directly from the battery to the coil?)
No 12 v at the coil, measure across the two outer terminals , correct ?
No crispy wires visible although I haven’t opened up the whole loom. It’s wrapped in a sleeve and cable ties and a weirded wiring block !
I have a mobile 12 v battery boaster block, could I connect directly to the coil, does this do the same trick?
( I don’t have cables long enough to go directly from the battery to the coil?)
Hey Steve
Checked the coil 11.7 v across + and earth.
I also checked the spark, with the plug tester, appears there is a spark across the 2 plugs I checked.
Battery now dead ! Now on charge.
I’m guessing, but it cranking but not firing. Is it fuel ?
There is fuel in there for sure and fuel pump is engaging.
What next should I be looking at ?
Seb
Checked the coil 11.7 v across + and earth.
I also checked the spark, with the plug tester, appears there is a spark across the 2 plugs I checked.
Battery now dead ! Now on charge.
I’m guessing, but it cranking but not firing. Is it fuel ?
There is fuel in there for sure and fuel pump is engaging.
What next should I be looking at ?
Seb
Steve_D said:
If you can hear the pump running then it is not the immobiliser.
Check for +12v at the coil positive terminal which will most likely be a black wire. I say most likely because those wires get very crispy, break, and get replaced with whatever comes to hand. The crispy broken wire is a very strong contender in your case.
If you don't have +12v then before going any deeper trying to chase the fault run a wire direct to the coil from either the battery or the alternator and prove the engine will run.
Report back with your findings then I can guide you to other possible areas for lose of supply.
Steve
Check for +12v at the coil positive terminal which will most likely be a black wire. I say most likely because those wires get very crispy, break, and get replaced with whatever comes to hand. The crispy broken wire is a very strong contender in your case.
If you don't have +12v then before going any deeper trying to chase the fault run a wire direct to the coil from either the battery or the alternator and prove the engine will run.
Report back with your findings then I can guide you to other possible areas for lose of supply.
Steve
Basic dodgy backyard mechanics.
Spray a can of easy start into the plenum. If it fires then your problems fuel, if it doesn't then it's something else.
Quick and dirty, 50% chance of disaster. There's a Schrader valve on the fuel rail under the plenum, get someone to push it and then try to start the car. If they get covered in fuel then you've got fuel to the rail, you should get an initial squirt on turning the ignition on and then a constant spray when trying to start. If they catch on fire then the problem was probably electrical, but that won't matter anymore.
Always have 2 decent sized powder fire extinguishers, one is never enough.
Rumour has it that you can take the bulb from the side repeater indicator in the wing and plug it into one of the fuel injector plugs, if it flashes when you crank the car over then the injectors are getting a signal.
You could always buy a rovergauge cable and see if there are any fault codes, you should own one anyway if you have a chim.
Don't do any of the above, I'm not a responsible adult and you should not listen to me
Spray a can of easy start into the plenum. If it fires then your problems fuel, if it doesn't then it's something else.
Quick and dirty, 50% chance of disaster. There's a Schrader valve on the fuel rail under the plenum, get someone to push it and then try to start the car. If they get covered in fuel then you've got fuel to the rail, you should get an initial squirt on turning the ignition on and then a constant spray when trying to start. If they catch on fire then the problem was probably electrical, but that won't matter anymore.
Always have 2 decent sized powder fire extinguishers, one is never enough.
Rumour has it that you can take the bulb from the side repeater indicator in the wing and plug it into one of the fuel injector plugs, if it flashes when you crank the car over then the injectors are getting a signal.
You could always buy a rovergauge cable and see if there are any fault codes, you should own one anyway if you have a chim.
Don't do any of the above, I'm not a responsible adult and you should not listen to me
Hey spaceman, this is the kind of advise that normally makes good stories in the pub when I describe my scares and burns. ;-)
Re rover gauge , I looked at this last night. This whole thing is stacked against me, I’m a Mac user and there no pc’s in the house except my work one. And that is so locked down, the Russian mafia couldn’t get into this.
So do I buy a new computer to diagnose this ! I’ve just bought a new coil and ignition amplifier , new battery.
I’m sure now it’s not the coil or amp, as I can see the spark from the plugs.
For a car that done 5 miles in the last 5 years I begrudge spending crazy money on her.
I think I need a mobile Mechanic.
But will try and lift the plenum spray some cold start and see if this splutters, can I spay it into the air intake without lifting it off ?
Cheers
Seb
Re rover gauge , I looked at this last night. This whole thing is stacked against me, I’m a Mac user and there no pc’s in the house except my work one. And that is so locked down, the Russian mafia couldn’t get into this.
So do I buy a new computer to diagnose this ! I’ve just bought a new coil and ignition amplifier , new battery.
I’m sure now it’s not the coil or amp, as I can see the spark from the plugs.
For a car that done 5 miles in the last 5 years I begrudge spending crazy money on her.
I think I need a mobile Mechanic.
But will try and lift the plenum spray some cold start and see if this splutters, can I spay it into the air intake without lifting it off ?
Cheers
Seb
Rovergauge works on Android stuff too if you have a phone or tablet somewhere. Just remove the silicone elbow that goes towards the air filter, press the accelerator and you'll be able to spray straight into the plenum.
When you turn the ignition on you hear the fuel pump prime. Can you hear it running when you're trying to start the car? Friend laying in the floor and touching it to see if they can feel it working may help.
Honestly the first thing I would do is try to start it for a bit and then take a spark plug out. You've got a spark tester, which I guess is one of those bulb things that you put between the HT lead and the plug. That doesn't actually mean the spark plug has a spark, if they're fouled badly enough they won't work. Take one out, if it's proper caked in crap give it a quick wire brush, that's good enough for fault diagnosis you can change them later. if they come out wet after you trying to start it then you know you've got fuel there. Clean one up, rest it on a metal bit of the engine and then crank over to see if it sparks.
When you turn the ignition on you hear the fuel pump prime. Can you hear it running when you're trying to start the car? Friend laying in the floor and touching it to see if they can feel it working may help.
Honestly the first thing I would do is try to start it for a bit and then take a spark plug out. You've got a spark tester, which I guess is one of those bulb things that you put between the HT lead and the plug. That doesn't actually mean the spark plug has a spark, if they're fouled badly enough they won't work. Take one out, if it's proper caked in crap give it a quick wire brush, that's good enough for fault diagnosis you can change them later. if they come out wet after you trying to start it then you know you've got fuel there. Clean one up, rest it on a metal bit of the engine and then crank over to see if it sparks.
Rover gauge is a great tool to have and will tell you a lot about the operating environment and if you have some faulty sensors and reset fault codes etc.
Good for stepper motor testing - cable costs only a few quid and a good investment (if you don't have to buy a PC .......)
For fault codes you can disconnect the battery for a few minutes and I believe that this will reset the ECU.
Another thing you could try is to disconnect the MAF connector in the engine bay and this will put the car into limp home mode.
If it starts and runs disconnected then you may have a faulty MAF sensor.
Good luck.
Good for stepper motor testing - cable costs only a few quid and a good investment (if you don't have to buy a PC .......)
For fault codes you can disconnect the battery for a few minutes and I believe that this will reset the ECU.
Another thing you could try is to disconnect the MAF connector in the engine bay and this will put the car into limp home mode.
If it starts and runs disconnected then you may have a faulty MAF sensor.
Good luck.
Next job once battery is charged. Check all plugs.
Re -Fuel pump where is this located? Can I disconnect one end and see if it spits fuel out or not advised ?
Cheers for the advise.
Seb
Re -Fuel pump where is this located? Can I disconnect one end and see if it spits fuel out or not advised ?
Cheers for the advise.
Seb
s p a c e m a n said:
Rovergauge works on Android stuff too if you have a phone or tablet somewhere. Just remove the silicone elbow that goes towards the air filter, press the accelerator and you'll be able to spray straight into the plenum.
When you turn the ignition on you hear the fuel pump prime. Can you hear it running when you're trying to start the car? Friend laying in the floor and touching it to see if they can feel it working may help.
Honestly the first thing I would do is try to start it for a bit and then take a spark plug out. You've got a spark tester, which I guess is one of those bulb things that you put between the HT lead and the plug. That doesn't actually mean the spark plug has a spark, if they're fouled badly enough they won't work. Take one out, if it's proper caked in crap give it a quick wire brush, that's good enough for fault diagnosis you can change them later. if they come out wet after you trying to start it then you know you've got fuel there. Clean one up, rest it on a metal bit of the engine and then crank over to see if it sparks.
When you turn the ignition on you hear the fuel pump prime. Can you hear it running when you're trying to start the car? Friend laying in the floor and touching it to see if they can feel it working may help.
Honestly the first thing I would do is try to start it for a bit and then take a spark plug out. You've got a spark tester, which I guess is one of those bulb things that you put between the HT lead and the plug. That doesn't actually mean the spark plug has a spark, if they're fouled badly enough they won't work. Take one out, if it's proper caked in crap give it a quick wire brush, that's good enough for fault diagnosis you can change them later. if they come out wet after you trying to start it then you know you've got fuel there. Clean one up, rest it on a metal bit of the engine and then crank over to see if it sparks.
Next job once battery is charged. Check all plugs.
Re -Fuel pump where is this located? Can I disconnect one end and see if it spits fuel out or not advised ?
Cheers for the advise.
Seb
Re -Fuel pump where is this located? Can I disconnect one end and see if it spits fuel out or not advised ?
Cheers for the advise.
Seb
s p a c e m a n said:
Rovergauge works on Android stuff too if you have a phone or tablet somewhere. Just remove the silicone elbow that goes towards the air filter, press the accelerator and you'll be able to spray straight into the plenum.
When you turn the ignition on you hear the fuel pump prime. Can you hear it running when you're trying to start the car? Friend laying in the floor and touching it to see if they can feel it working may help.
Honestly the first thing I would do is try to start it for a bit and then take a spark plug out. You've got a spark tester, which I guess is one of those bulb things that you put between the HT lead and the plug. That doesn't actually mean the spark plug has a spark, if they're fouled badly enough they won't work. Take one out, if it's proper caked in crap give it a quick wire brush, that's good enough for fault diagnosis you can change them later. if they come out wet after you trying to start it then you know you've got fuel there. Clean one up, rest it on a metal bit of the engine and then crank over to see if it sparks.
When you turn the ignition on you hear the fuel pump prime. Can you hear it running when you're trying to start the car? Friend laying in the floor and touching it to see if they can feel it working may help.
Honestly the first thing I would do is try to start it for a bit and then take a spark plug out. You've got a spark tester, which I guess is one of those bulb things that you put between the HT lead and the plug. That doesn't actually mean the spark plug has a spark, if they're fouled badly enough they won't work. Take one out, if it's proper caked in crap give it a quick wire brush, that's good enough for fault diagnosis you can change them later. if they come out wet after you trying to start it then you know you've got fuel there. Clean one up, rest it on a metal bit of the engine and then crank over to see if it sparks.
Thanks Italian450
I’d like the rover gauge. But as I say don’t have a Windows,a hind or Android device.
All Mac house, except locked down PC from work which install nothing.
Will try the MAF as well.
Many thanks.
I’d like the rover gauge. But as I say don’t have a Windows,a hind or Android device.
All Mac house, except locked down PC from work which install nothing.
Will try the MAF as well.
Many thanks.
Italian450 said:
Rover gauge is a great tool to have and will tell you a lot about the operating environment and if you have some faulty sensors and reset fault codes etc.
Good for stepper motor testing - cable costs only a few quid and a good investment (if you don't have to buy a PC .......)
For fault codes you can disconnect the battery for a few minutes and I believe that this will reset the ECU.
Another thing you could try is to disconnect the MAF connector in the engine bay and this will put the car into limp home mode.
If it starts and runs disconnected then you may have a faulty MAF sensor.
Good luck.
Good for stepper motor testing - cable costs only a few quid and a good investment (if you don't have to buy a PC .......)
For fault codes you can disconnect the battery for a few minutes and I believe that this will reset the ECU.
Another thing you could try is to disconnect the MAF connector in the engine bay and this will put the car into limp home mode.
If it starts and runs disconnected then you may have a faulty MAF sensor.
Good luck.
Folks I’m smiling, but you will all laugh at this.
I pulled the plugs 4 or 5 of them. I couldn’t get the casing off the others !
They seemed fine.
I’d bought a new coil and amplifier.
Replaced both, no difference.
Charged the new battery and replaced it, turned over but still the same issue.
I pulled the air flow pipe from the Plenum, fired some cold start and the engine turned over.
Puzzled as to what to do next !
Checked relays, fuel pump all working.
Disconnected MAF. No joy.
So now kick me, I poured a litre of fuel in and boom it fired up !!!
Petrol gauge appears to be reading incorrectly or stuck !
I’ve had 2 weeks of mind boggling frustrations, been round the houses.
But thanks to you kind folks, I’ve learned tons from this.
Episode.
Thank you all for your support.
( & now I have a bag of spares !)
I pulled the plugs 4 or 5 of them. I couldn’t get the casing off the others !
They seemed fine.
I’d bought a new coil and amplifier.
Replaced both, no difference.
Charged the new battery and replaced it, turned over but still the same issue.
I pulled the air flow pipe from the Plenum, fired some cold start and the engine turned over.
Puzzled as to what to do next !
Checked relays, fuel pump all working.
Disconnected MAF. No joy.
So now kick me, I poured a litre of fuel in and boom it fired up !!!
Petrol gauge appears to be reading incorrectly or stuck !
I’ve had 2 weeks of mind boggling frustrations, been round the houses.
But thanks to you kind folks, I’ve learned tons from this.
Episode.
Thank you all for your support.
( & now I have a bag of spares !)
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