Clutch Bleeding issues after body off

[Shed TVR]

Hi All,

Ever since I've had the body off for a new chassis on my Chimaera, I can't get my clutch right. I've had the clutch system completely dry and a big bore slave cylinder installed. Since the car's been rebuilt the clutch is not disengaging properly and feels as if it isn't totally bled.

I've tried bleeding maybe 6 times now, ez bleed and doing manually (2 person), and every time it's the same. I did try a reverse bleed too but I couldn't manage to force the fluid through that way.

Could it be that I'm having issues with either the clutch master or slave cylinder? Or is there another trick to bleeding these?

Thanks

[Sir Paolo]

Hi,
Just a thought as you’ve had things in bits, has the clutch pedal push rod been disturbed?
I had to replace one, and it needed adjustment afterwards - there’s a locknut at the back of the pedal.

So, it maybe a mechanical issue, not hydraulic(?).

Good luck

[spitfire4v8]

Shed TVR said:

big bore slave cylinder installed.

What happens if you piut it back onto the original slave cylinder ?

big bore slave = less clutch arm travel for any given pedal travel.

[phillpot]

My guess is big bore equals more fluid required to move same distance. There's your problem.

[Zener]

spitfire4v8 said:

Shed TVR said:

big bore slave cylinder installed.

What happens if you piut it back onto the original slave cylinder ?

big bore slave = less clutch arm travel for any given pedal travel.

This ^ check the pedal return height relative to the brake pedal (approx) you may be able to adjust the push-rod (lengthen) to give a little more MC piston stroke to overcome the fact you now need to displace more fluid due to bigger slave fitted , worked on my brothers Chimaera

[spitfire4v8]

Zener said:

This ^ check the pedal return height relative to the brake pedal (approx) you may be able to adjust the push-rod (lengthen) to give a little more MC piston stroke to overcome the fact you now need to displace more fluid due to bigger slave fitted , worked on my brothers Chimaera

Good point .. if you are not hitting the hard end stop of the master cyl movement then by a combination of lengthening the master cyl rod and winding down the pedal rubber threaded extension you might get enough travel and still keep a sensible clutch pedal height

[Shed TVR]

Thanks guys great suggestions, I'll have a go at adjusting the pedal then try swapping the old slave cylinder back in.

[Shed TVR]

Hi all,

Tried the clutch adjustment and re-installed the old slave cylinder and unfortunately no luck, clutch is still the same. I also checked the gearbox oil level for the sake of it and that's fine. One thing I forgot to mention is that I replaced the clutch friction plate during the body off, maybe this is causing the issue? I'm also tempted to try replacing the master cylinder as it's really the only accessible thing I haven't touched yet, however I don't just want to throw parts at it.

All suggestions welcome, thanks.

[s p a c e m a n]

Pull the inspection cover off of the bottom of the bell housing and try to have a look at what's going on up there? Get a snakey inspection camera think for peanuts on eBay.

[Aussie John]

If the master cylinder is really shot you can see the fluid level rise as you push the pedal down. This tests the small seal on the bottom.

[Zener]

A cracked/failing clutch release arm pivot point can also give a vague pedal maybe spotted if looking through the access hole like previously mentioned , removed my previous comment because in this instance I dont think its applicable