changing the starter motor
changing the starter motor
Author
Discussion

beeka

Original Poster:

59 posts

287 months

Friday 22nd July 2005
quotequote all
Hi everyone,
Are there any obvious problems with changing the starter motor on my 96 4 litre Chim? It looks like a case of jacking it up and getting to it from underneath, or am I over simplifying it? Managed to get a new one from Paddock spares for under 100 quid-they are on offer at the moment.
Cheers all, beeka

spend

12,581 posts

280 months

Friday 22nd July 2005
quotequote all
Hardest part is probably disconnecting the battery.

You need long hex sockets to get at the starter bolts. IIRC starter has to be pushed forward and tilted upwards along chassis diagonal before it will drop out. Being a careful type, I also put a rubber boot on the live cables before reconnecting them, apart from a bit of extra insulation it should also keep some of the crap out. Might also be a good time to replace the alt fuse whilst you are in the area (and check the conditon of its housing - have been reports of some disintegrating).

Dave

parrot of doom

23,075 posts

263 months

Friday 22nd July 2005
quotequote all
I've heard that sometimes they have to be physically broken off.

Its something I'm interested in as I need to change mine.

mongoose

4,360 posts

284 months

Friday 22nd July 2005
quotequote all
Friendly warning.When youve finished the job,check to make sure you havent budged the hydraulic pipe going to the slave cylinder.I did budge mine,but didnt realise until i went out driving in it the next day,only to experience sudden clutch failure caused by fluid loss,miles from home

smedlen

867 posts

272 months

Friday 22nd July 2005
quotequote all
[quote=spend]
You need long hex sockets to get at the starter bolts.

On mine I needed hex keys, an adaptor and a good socket set. IIRC the starter bolts require an 8mm key.

spend

12,581 posts

280 months

Friday 22nd July 2005
quotequote all
I think you will find they are imperial, using metric keys may round the heads, ok for removing, but better to release the initial tightness with an imperial key IMHO. Same goes for the damned driveshafts! - I usually torque up & spin off with metric, but release with imperial. Nothing worse than having to get them out with a stud remover :-)

rnd

388 posts

295 months

Friday 22nd July 2005
quotequote all
One more small tip. Before you try to loosen the hex nuts tap them in with the extension bar first and this will hopefully rull out ringing the hex bit on the bolts. I would hate to try to get them out if this happened.

beeka

Original Poster:

59 posts

287 months

Monday 25th July 2005
quotequote all
Thanks all - will let you know how I get on