Discussion
Have used Waxoyl in the past and it seems to flake off after a while. Over the past few years I have started using Dinitrol corrrosion Prevention in an aerosol can, it dries to a hard-ish wax. Quite expensive but easy to apply and seems to work well. It's available from a company called Frost, internet address is iwww.frost.co.uk/productList.asp?catID=63nternet. Product code is S335.
The idea is to use POR15 or similar as a permanent chassis paint if you have bare metal, then Waxoil on top every year. commercial equivalents to waxoil are better but you normally need to by 10L or more.
Pricewise all these products are relatively cheap. £20-30 ish for chassis paint/ epoxy, about £10 for waxoil.
Pricewise all these products are relatively cheap. £20-30 ish for chassis paint/ epoxy, about £10 for waxoil.
Agreed 2 Sheds, I think people are using POR15 without the required surface preparation, just painting it on top of the dirt and grime. I also worry about using spray waxoil. It's good for the bits you can see but how do you get it to the bits you can't see. I use a long bristled brush to ease the waxoil into and around these bits. IMO these bits are going to suffer from trapped dirt holding moisture in.
To be honest the products compliment each other rather than compete. POR15 works in quite a unique way in that it does not try the chemically alter the rust, it just provides an air tight bond against it, and rust needs air to spread! so this is one of the reasons you can paint it directly onto rust. If you paint it onto bare clean metal you will run into problems in that it needs a rough surface to cling to (you can buy a surface preparer from Frosts)
To test it I painted my rusty old patio umbrella stand last year in it and its been out in all weathers since - and there's not a sign rust returning.
Once you have painted the Chassis you can then spray Waxoyl on top if you want to feel better.
My Chim has virtually a rust free chassis, I have painted it in POR15 and waxoyled it, plus it never goes out in the rain so if it rusts through I will be gutted
To test it I painted my rusty old patio umbrella stand last year in it and its been out in all weathers since - and there's not a sign rust returning.
Once you have painted the Chassis you can then spray Waxoyl on top if you want to feel better.
My Chim has virtually a rust free chassis, I have painted it in POR15 and waxoyled it, plus it never goes out in the rain so if it rusts through I will be gutted
puffsorted2 said:
If you paint it onto bare clean metal you will run into problems in that it needs a rough surface to cling to (you can buy a surface preparer from Frosts)...
Puffsorted2, how does the surface prep work? Do you need to rough up the existing paintwork any, or do you just paint on the POR surface prep?
Very keen to POR my car, but at the moment (touch wood) no visible signs of rust...
TIA
tvrbob said:
I also worry about using spray waxoil. It's good for the bits you can see but how do you get it to the bits you can't see.
Places like outrigger brackets & where the "sills" run in the fibreglass, I just shove the nozzle into a gap and squirt it in until it comes out all over the place. Do that every 6" and the whole thing is going to be drenched in Waxoyl. One secret is to get the waxoyl good and hot in a bucket of boiling water, regularly topped up with kettle-fulls of more boiling water.
(BTW, it makes a right mess of the garage floor...)
Nuggs said:
puffsorted2 said:
If you paint it onto bare clean metal you will run into problems in that it needs a rough surface to cling to (you can buy a surface preparer from Frosts)...
Puffsorted2, how does the surface prep work? Do you need to rough up the existing paintwork any, or do you just paint on the POR surface prep?
Very keen to POR my car, but at the moment (touch wood) no visible signs of rust...
TIA
I would be amazed if you didn't have any surface rust - mine is the same year as yours with half the mileage but I had some on the top Wishbones and the outriggers, also check the seatbelt mounting points (in front of the rear wheels). Nearly everything else on mine was rust free. If you are painting directly onto the powder coating then POR 15 will stick but you will need to be liberal and apply a couple of coats (its messy
. The only time I had problems with it 'sticking' was on rust free base metal - I certainly would not rough up the powder coating. puffsorted2 said:
I would be amazed if you didn't have any surface rust
Fair play, I'm sure I'll find some when I really have a poke under the car. However, all of the chassis which is visible is rust-free, and I'd like to POR15 all of that too if possible (and it sounds from your post like it is)...
Thanks for your very quick reply

Nuggs said:
puffsorted2 said:
I would be amazed if you didn't have any surface rust
Fair play, I'm sure I'll find some when I really have a poke under the car. However, all of the chassis which is visible is rust-free, and I'd like to POR15 all of that too if possible (and it sounds from your post like it is)...
Thanks for your very quick reply
Just noticed where your based, my Chim is in for a service at Austec on the 11th (12th as well if extra work needs doing) - if you wanted to meet up and take a look at mine and how tough the stuff is.
puffsorted2 said:
Just noticed where your based, my Chim is in for a service at Austec on the 11th (12th as well if extra work needs doing) - if you wanted to meet up and take a look at mine and how tough the stuff is.
Thanks for the kind offer mate, I'd love to take a look at your motor, as I'm really keen to do the whole POR15 thing in the Autumn.
Unfortunately I'll be at work in the City on the 11th and 12th, so it's a no can do. Let me know if you're going to be in the area again soon though...
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