Drivers door not opening!
Discussion
Ah ha - just taken the assembly apart and removed the solenoid thing (you're right its just a 12v motor with a sliding arm!) I disconected the passenger side and plugged it in there - it didn't work! Hence coming to the conclusion the black solenoid is knackered. So I took it into my kitchen to pull apart an have a look! However I also shut both my doors and forgot to reconnect the passenger side solenoid - and being as the driver side was b*ggered (and also in my hand), I had managed to lock myself out of my car again
I know how to get back in tho. so no worries!
However my solenoid does seem knackered, does anyone know what part this is, did someone mention it was a Ford part?
I know how to get back in tho. so no worries!
However my solenoid does seem knackered, does anyone know what part this is, did someone mention it was a Ford part?
Just recieved the "door actuator" 2 wire version from Maplins.
Not exactly the same as the one I removed (so a little bit concerned) but the body part looks very similar.
May need to take some bits of the old one, but I'll post how I get on, just in case anyone else goes down this route!
Not exactly the same as the one I removed (so a little bit concerned) but the body part looks very similar.
May need to take some bits of the old one, but I'll post how I get on, just in case anyone else goes down this route!
Put my new solenoid in (door actuator - proper wording for it apparently).
Absolute piece of cake - compared to any other job I've done on the Tiv it was as hard as brushing my teeth
Bought the actuator from Maplins (YD79L) cost about £9 in all.
The part isn't exactly the same as the one I took out, but the fixing points and anything that matters is the same!
I needed to cut the connector block off the old part and solder wires together to attach it to the new part (the new actuator comes with bullet type connectors)
Removing the old part is easy:
Tilt the driver seat forward.
Lift the flap of carpet that is on the inside of the car, behind the drivers right shoulder.
Undo the 3 allen bolts that surround the door mechanism.
This releases a craddle of solenoids etc.
One of these is for the boot (5 wire) and the 2 wire was for my driver door - check yours tho to make sure you've got the right one. You can check by operating the internal door release to see which one gets pulled!
2 self tapping screws hold the actuator in place, remove these and unclip the connection.
When I came to put the new one in, apart from swapping the connector over (for the wires) you also need the rod from the old part that pushes down on the door release.
This is a short rod at the bottom of the actuator (about an inch in length) and pushes through the end of the plunger. It is only held there by friction, so you can pull it out with some pliers, but when I came to tap it into my new part, the diameter was slightly different and it cracked the plastic bit on the new actuator
No big problem tho. I just put some araldite on the crack to hold it together!
All done - just my switch to fix now
Absolute piece of cake - compared to any other job I've done on the Tiv it was as hard as brushing my teeth
Bought the actuator from Maplins (YD79L) cost about £9 in all.
The part isn't exactly the same as the one I took out, but the fixing points and anything that matters is the same!
I needed to cut the connector block off the old part and solder wires together to attach it to the new part (the new actuator comes with bullet type connectors)
Removing the old part is easy:
Tilt the driver seat forward.
Lift the flap of carpet that is on the inside of the car, behind the drivers right shoulder.
Undo the 3 allen bolts that surround the door mechanism.
This releases a craddle of solenoids etc.
One of these is for the boot (5 wire) and the 2 wire was for my driver door - check yours tho to make sure you've got the right one. You can check by operating the internal door release to see which one gets pulled!
2 self tapping screws hold the actuator in place, remove these and unclip the connection.
When I came to put the new one in, apart from swapping the connector over (for the wires) you also need the rod from the old part that pushes down on the door release.
This is a short rod at the bottom of the actuator (about an inch in length) and pushes through the end of the plunger. It is only held there by friction, so you can pull it out with some pliers, but when I came to tap it into my new part, the diameter was slightly different and it cracked the plastic bit on the new actuator
No big problem tho. I just put some araldite on the crack to hold it together! All done - just my switch to fix now

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