Timing cover removal

[Dalamar]

I have a 1995 Chimaera 400 with the serp engine.

I'm looking to remove the timing cover to change the gasket and front crank oil seal to fix some oil leaks and also change the oil pump as it's getting for 100k miles.

I don't want to over complicate matters but here's how I'm planning to attack this:

- Measure the current timing at idle (e.g. 8 degrees BTDC at ~900 RPM) on a warm engine with the vacuum advance discontinued and the plenum port blocked (a bit of masking tape) using the current timing mark that is there.
- Rotate the engine around the current TDC timing mark on the pulley and check the rotor arm is pointing to HT lead no. 1 (I don't want to go overboard here and start finding TDC from the start and start redoing the marks on the pulley).
- Mark the current distributor position and rotor arm position.
- Remove the distributor.
- Next remove the lower bellhousing plate and lock the flywheel using a bit of angle iron and a suitable setscrew (need to work that out).
- Undo the crank pulley nut with 15/16" socket (may need to remove the cross member for better access) and remove pulley
- Remove any front accessories to allow decent access e.g. alternator (need to sort that out too), remove any wiring close by (e.g. oil pressure switch and bits in that area), drain coolant and remove coolant pipes etc.
- Remove the necessary timing cover bolts and screws including the two front ones that go up through the sump pan.
- Remove the timing cover

Some questions:

Is it best to remove the sump to allow better access to lock the flywheel?
If the oil pump face is scored badly and out of spec then what are the options to repair at a machine shop? In other words is it doable?
When replacing the timing cover gasket is Wellseal OK to use? Or some silicone gasket sealant?

Thanks.

[jojackson4]

You have to remove the front bolts from the sump as they go into the TC

The crankshaft bolt is very tight so get ready with a big bar and a new bolt for when you put it back together
Water pump pulley off before you do the belt or it’s a pain
Dizzy get a paint marker and mark the position of the RA and the body of the dizzi to the TC
Make sure you have the correct gasket for the timing cover there are 2 and one stops oil going to the top end


Water pump be careful as 2 bolts go into the water jacket ad can be a pain

[Belle427]

The plate can be faced off if it's scored lightly, inspect the gears too as it maybe worth just replacing them if it's apart.
Id buy a good quality gasket, I stick it to the engine overnight to aid assembly, I used a Wynn's black gasket goo for this but very sparingly. I then use a light coating of hylomar to the cover face when fitting.
Bolts through the water jacket I used a thread sealer on.
You will probably need a light coating of gasket goo to the bottom of the cover too, don't go overboard with the sealant!

[Dalamar]

Thanks for the help so far everyone.

Quick update: I managed to remove the crank pulley bolt without too much drama. I've read a few methods and didn't want to stress my gearbox with the handbrake/in-gear method so went for locking the flywheel via the starter hole.

See enclosed pictures.

Just used a piece of mild angle iron (a furniture bracket) and used it to jam the ring gear. Used a trolley jack handle to extend my 60cm 1/2" extension but I didn't need too much oomph to start the bolt moving. A pleasant surprise!

[Belle427]

Would be interested to know if one of these modern battery impact beasts would deal with it.
I’ve heard the De Walt one is hard to defeat.

[jojackson4]

Belle427 said:

Would be interested to know if one of these modern battery impact beasts would deal with it.
I’ve heard the De Walt one is hard to defeat.

18v one can do it


Just put a new bolt in when rebuilding

[Dalamar]

jojackson4 said:

18v one can do it


Just put a new bolt in when rebuilding

Is that a picture of a sheared crank pulley bolt? I haven't completely taken my bolt and pulley wheel off yet. I just got it loosened and dashed inside as it was getting too cold in the garage.

By the way, can you take the pulley wheel and damper off together? Looks to be around 5cm clearance before a cross brace would start interfering.

[jojackson4]

Yes and yes

[Dalamar]

Well, this isn't what you want to see when you remove the timing cover. It's partly eaten by an aftermarket timing chain and sprocket kit.



The chain has rubbed on the oil pump cover and a bit on the distributor support tube (best way I can describe it). Nothing too serious. Probably the cause of a bit of front engine noise that I couldn't quite track down.



The timing kit is a JP Performance 5984 setup which I think is Australian. Did RPI Eng sell these or another UK importer?

Anyway, timing cover cleaned up and new oil pump fitted as the original was scored. No breaks just heavily scored from infrequent oil changes. The oil was like tar when I first bought the car. The front crankshaft seal just popped out with fingers only so new one going in as well as a decent oil pressure switch o-ring.

There aren't many pictures around of the intermediate timing cover so I hope these help people.




Original Morse timing kit fitted.



Just waiting for some new timing cover bolts to turn up before refitting. Going to use a bit of Wellseal with the gaskets.

[jojackson4]

Make sure the TC gasket is the correct one

Get the wrong one and no oil pressure

[Zener]

Have you checked for excess crank end float on this engine Dalamar? never witnessed one of those JP kits to do this to an oil pump cover , and that could of been making contact every time you depressed the clutch pedal if so

[Dalamar]

Zener said:

Have you checked for excess crank end float on this engine Dalamar? never witnessed one of those JP kits to do this to an oil pump cover , and that could of been making contact every time you depressed the clutch pedal if so

Will do although the gouge at the top was around 1.5 mm deep in the casting and on oil pump cover around 1 mm at the edges. Hopefully I don’t have that much end float but I’ll be looking at the bearings next anyway.