Blowing
Author
Discussion

parrot of doom

Original Poster:

23,075 posts

263 months

Tuesday 2nd August 2005
quotequote all
A filthy, despicable, evil crack has opened up on my exhaust, in the engine bay. Its about 2 inches long, and is dead along the seam on the right bank, just above the main cat (right next to the fans).

Its dead easy to see and work on.

Now, is it possible to weld it back together? I'm not worried if it doesn't look pretty, but to be frank I've spent enough money this month!

Also, will this crack be causing the faint 'blow across top of milk bottle' sound I hear as I drive? If you put your hand over the crack you can feel the gasses pushing out quite strongly.

dodgyviper

1,213 posts

267 months

Tuesday 2nd August 2005
quotequote all
Christ POD you've been having some probs lately.

I'll leave the techy advice to others but you have my commiserations

Podie

46,649 posts

304 months

Tuesday 2nd August 2005
quotequote all
Welding will most likely be a short term fix... without seeing it, I can't really give too much advice.

dtpugh

82 posts

257 months

Tuesday 2nd August 2005
quotequote all
I would be weary welding the exhaust in place. As the engine department has a lot of fuel about.

Also any welding splatter would ruin your paint work if it splashes onto it. My experience with welding is that it will splatter a lot if the metal is rusty.

I personnelly would remove it to weld.

Dave

zippee

14,125 posts

263 months

Tuesday 2nd August 2005
quotequote all
Sorry to hear that PoD, mine went earlier this year and were replaced with ACT stainless.
If your interested in a slightly cheaper option there are some on E-Bay at the moment though can't remember when they finish or what condition they are in.

bugsy

1,371 posts

265 months

Tuesday 2nd August 2005
quotequote all
I wouldn't bother with secondhand, I did that two months ago and now I'm putting the stainless ones on because the other ones have gone, waste of money IMHO

M@H

11,298 posts

301 months

Wednesday 3rd August 2005
quotequote all
Podie said:
Welding will most likely be a short term fix... without seeing it, I can't really give too much advice.




..speaks the qualified welder


I'd weld it in situ.. as long as the amps are low enough that you don't burn holes in it you should be ok. A competent welder should be able to deal with it without making a mess elsewhere I reckon. I had my rollbar tacked together in the car before being welded up properly with no fire-startings or mess.

Cheers
Matt.

>> Edited by M@H on Wednesday 3rd August 08:47

Podie

46,649 posts

304 months

Wednesday 3rd August 2005
quotequote all
M@H said:

Podie said:
Welding will most likely be a short term fix... without seeing it, I can't really give too much advice.





..speaks the qualified welder


Don't take the piss about what you don't know!

M@H

11,298 posts

301 months

Wednesday 3rd August 2005
quotequote all
Podie said:


M@H said:



Podie said:
Welding will most likely be a short term fix... without seeing it, I can't really give too much advice.




..speaks the qualified welder




Don't take the piss about what you don't know!



Oo fair enough..

>> Edited by M@H on Wednesday 3rd August 11:12

david beer

3,982 posts

296 months

Wednesday 3rd August 2005
quotequote all
I had mine welded on the car after i banged a hole through while removing the pre-cats. The garage were fine doing it.

ntel

5,051 posts

269 months

Wednesday 3rd August 2005
quotequote all
POD, I have personally carried out welding on my exhaust whilst still on the car. There is not a problem.

If you cant do it yourself then take it to a stainless steel fabricator and ask him to TIG weld it using a 304L stainless steel TIG rod. If it is a crack then also make sure they drill a small hole at each end of the crack so it doesn't creep when welding. The holes can be filled with weld after the crack is repaired. What ever you do, don't let anybody MIG or stick weld it. TIG is the best and will be perminant.

If you can wait a couple of weeks then either me or my lad will do it for you, but you will have to bring it to me. You know where I am.

Edited to say: If I have the time I'll do it for nowt, but if the lad does it, he'll want paying.

Dave

>> Edited by ntel on Wednesday 3rd August 18:39

>> Edited by ntel on Wednesday 3rd August 18:44

dtpugh

82 posts

257 months

Wednesday 3rd August 2005
quotequote all
I am not being funny but mine don't look like stainless steel.

I always thought stainless steel is nice and shiney and wouldn't rust.

Obviously I am wrong, but how can you tell the difference between mild steel and stainless.

Dave

ntel

5,051 posts

269 months

Wednesday 3rd August 2005
quotequote all
dtpugh said:
I am not being funny but mine don't look like stainless steel.

I always thought stainless steel is nice and shiney and wouldn't rust.

Obviously I am wrong, but how can you tell the difference between mild steel and stainless.

Dave


It may not be stainless, but in my experience when using a stainless rod in this application the job is a gud un.

parrot of doom

Original Poster:

23,075 posts

263 months

Friday 5th August 2005
quotequote all
Balls to buying a new one, it doesn't need to be pretty when its sat under the bonnet Just as long as it lasts for a while longer, that'll do. I hate wasting perfectly good things.

Ntel, you have email from me

parrot of doom

Original Poster:

23,075 posts

263 months

Tuesday 9th August 2005
quotequote all
Got it welded for free, seems fine now Not too pretty, but I don't care tbh.