Chimaera geometry
Discussion
For road use I have mine checked to the following:
Front Toe = 1.5mm overall which is about 12 minutes
Front camber = 0.5 to 0.75 degrees neg
Rear camber = 1.4 degrees neg
Rear toe = 3mm or 26 minutes toe in overall
This is only for standard ride height, horizontal lower wishbones at rest
Rear 155mm, front 145mm outrigger corner to ground will be close enough to horizontal lower wishbones
Front Toe = 1.5mm overall which is about 12 minutes
Front camber = 0.5 to 0.75 degrees neg
Rear camber = 1.4 degrees neg
Rear toe = 3mm or 26 minutes toe in overall
This is only for standard ride height, horizontal lower wishbones at rest
Rear 155mm, front 145mm outrigger corner to ground will be close enough to horizontal lower wishbones
I have used a non specialist in the past that adjusted my perfectly serviceable geometry to definitively wrong. So, if you don’t notice a problem, keep your current geometry until you get to a specialist, would be my advice.
On a more diy note, measuring geometry is remarkably simple to do at home. Except for the complex stuff like castor angle.
Nic
On a more diy note, measuring geometry is remarkably simple to do at home. Except for the complex stuff like castor angle.
Nic
NicBowman said:
I have used a non specialist in the past that adjusted my perfectly serviceable geometry to definitively wrong. So, if you don’t notice a problem, keep your current geometry until you get to a specialist, would be my advice.
On a more diy note, measuring geometry is remarkably simple to do at home. Except for the complex stuff like castor angle.
Nic
That’s assuming you have a flat and smooth floor but yes you are perfectly correct there. On a more diy note, measuring geometry is remarkably simple to do at home. Except for the complex stuff like castor angle.
Nic
For peace of mind it’s always better to get it set by a decent geo specialist and I’d only use people who know the cars. It’s the rear tow adjusters that can stump the average fitter!?!
It’s then a very good idea to check it at home for future reference. It’s all very well doing it at home but it’s not necessarily going to be perfect and a small increment out and you will be wearing your tyres badly over thousands of miles.
I’ve used strings lots of times on race cars that only manage a few miles before being knocked out again. You are constantly checking after ride height or corner weight changes anyway. My point is once set a Tvr might go many thousands of miles before it ever needs doing again so probably best to let a good specialist do it who won’t clang spanners off your wish bones etc etc.
Sadly no TVR specialists with alignment kit within a few hours from here so will have to take my chances. One of my old front tyres was wearing on an edge so looks like it needs some tweaking to save trashing my new tyres. The garage I plan to use are happy to use bespoke settings and are quite pedantic so hopefully will get a decent result.
The rear wishbone adjusters were freed off recently so hopefully they’ll still be ok…
The rear wishbone adjusters were freed off recently so hopefully they’ll still be ok…
asd2001 said:
Sadly no TVR specialists with alignment kit within a few hours from here so will have to take my chances. One of my old front tyres was wearing on an edge so looks like it needs some tweaking to save trashing my new tyres. The garage I plan to use are happy to use bespoke settings and are quite pedantic so hopefully will get a decent result.
The rear wishbone adjusters were freed off recently so hopefully they’ll still be ok…
You shouldn’t have any problem then. The rear wishbone adjusters were freed off recently so hopefully they’ll still be ok…
Setting camber and track on the front is very easy to be fair.
Why don't you use these guys https://www.dreadnoughtgarage.com/ - they are supposed to be TVR specialists (I haven't used them myself) and do alignment. I would be interested in your results with the Rainsports as I have them also - and I live in Perthshire.
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