zero oil pressure on the gauge
Discussion
I started my Chimaera recently and noticed the oil pressure gauge was reading zero with the oil presure light going out. I didn't notice whether it was showing zero the previous day.
At first I presumed the oil pressure sender unit was not working, however on reading through the previous threads and talking to other 'experts' I have checked out a couple of other possible areas:
1. I can't see oil circulating under the oil filler cap when the engine is running.
2. There is possible clattering noise around the top of the engine
3. The oil pressure warning light does not go out with the LT connection to the coil disconnected with the engine turning on the starter.
I live in Salisbury and miles away from any dealer or TVR specialist. My question is if it is the oil pump which needs replacing, is it a job which I can trust a local general garage or is a specialist job and how much is it likely to cost?
The wife is nagging me to get it fix as she wants to take it out in the good weather.
At first I presumed the oil pressure sender unit was not working, however on reading through the previous threads and talking to other 'experts' I have checked out a couple of other possible areas:
1. I can't see oil circulating under the oil filler cap when the engine is running.
2. There is possible clattering noise around the top of the engine
3. The oil pressure warning light does not go out with the LT connection to the coil disconnected with the engine turning on the starter.
I live in Salisbury and miles away from any dealer or TVR specialist. My question is if it is the oil pump which needs replacing, is it a job which I can trust a local general garage or is a specialist job and how much is it likely to cost?
The wife is nagging me to get it fix as she wants to take it out in the good weather.
Oil pumps don't normally just stop working.
Are you absolutely sure you are looking at the oil pressure warning light and not (for example) the no-charge warning light. If so, then since the low oil pressure warning light goes out, you would seem to have some pressure, at least. In this case I would suspect that the gauge/wiring/sender has failed, and my first suspect would be the wiring out by the sender. Give it a wiggle and see if it is securely connected.
Are you absolutely sure you are looking at the oil pressure warning light and not (for example) the no-charge warning light. If so, then since the low oil pressure warning light goes out, you would seem to have some pressure, at least. In this case I would suspect that the gauge/wiring/sender has failed, and my first suspect would be the wiring out by the sender. Give it a wiggle and see if it is securely connected.
Thanks for the quick reply.
I am looking at the oil light - orange with the oil can symbol and all looks ok?
I have tried the wriggle test on what I think is the oil pressure sender unit and no change. Is this the this the round 1 1/2" by 3/4" fitting near the oil filter with a wire connected?
I did read on another thread that on the starter only the oil light should go out. What do you think ? It worries me that there may insufficient pressure with the oil light is going out.
Would a local local garage know what to look for?
I am looking at the oil light - orange with the oil can symbol and all looks ok?
I have tried the wriggle test on what I think is the oil pressure sender unit and no change. Is this the this the round 1 1/2" by 3/4" fitting near the oil filter with a wire connected?
I did read on another thread that on the starter only the oil light should go out. What do you think ? It worries me that there may insufficient pressure with the oil light is going out.
Would a local local garage know what to look for?
keith.w. said:
Would a local local garage know what to look for?
I'd hope they would but it depends on your local garage. I don't beleave the pump is any different to a Range Rover V8 for example so I hope they would be able to diagnose this.
keith.w. said:
2. There is possible clattering noise around the top of the engine
You need to be happy that the pressure is normal before running it again. This clattering could simply be the hydralic tapits not getting sufficient pressure to adjust the clerance properly.
I'd get it looked at but make sure the simple things like the sender are checked first. For Gods sake make sure they don't start it & rev the knackers out of it to see if it produces oil pressure
Good luck.
>> Edited by RAW-SEWedge on Tuesday 9th August 23:17
You say that the gauge reads zero AND the light is on?? IIRC, aren't the gauge and the light fed from different sensors?? If so, the likelyhood of a real pressure loss problem is very real and I'd suggest not starting it and getting it to any garage ASAP.
Most decent garages can deal with a RV8, I realise that TVR have tinkered with them a little, but basic problems such as oil pressure should be diagnosed be any half decent mechanic.
Good luck and hope it's nothing too bad.
Dan
Most decent garages can deal with a RV8, I realise that TVR have tinkered with them a little, but basic problems such as oil pressure should be diagnosed be any half decent mechanic.
Good luck and hope it's nothing too bad.
Dan
I had a similar problem a while ago.
I started the car up and left it in the garage to make a cup of tea. When I came it out it was making a bad clattering noise. No pressure on gauge and warning light was on.
I ended up putting a new oil pump on, and driving the oil pump off a drill through the distributer's mounting hole until the warning light went off (the warning light didn't go out just by running it on the starter which caused much of the confusion!).
Then re-started, all was fine - that was 3 years ago and never had problems with the engine, and people on here did diagnose a lunched engine because of no pressure.
If you're unsure, then don't risk starting it. Taking the dizzy off, get a drill and a long bit and a socket. Try and get one that fits the top of the oil pump gear, and then wind the oil pump and see if the light goes out, if it does then restart, if it doesn't, either re-prime the pump or get a new one.
It's an easy job, if you fancy risking it yourself. £40 for a pump IIRC from Rimmer Bros. 3 Bolts to undo, remove the pump housing, etc, put some vaseline in all the gears and put new housing on, and then do the drilling part to get pressure.
>> Edited by schueymcfee on Wednesday 10th August 09:32
I started the car up and left it in the garage to make a cup of tea. When I came it out it was making a bad clattering noise. No pressure on gauge and warning light was on.
I ended up putting a new oil pump on, and driving the oil pump off a drill through the distributer's mounting hole until the warning light went off (the warning light didn't go out just by running it on the starter which caused much of the confusion!).
Then re-started, all was fine - that was 3 years ago and never had problems with the engine, and people on here did diagnose a lunched engine because of no pressure.
If you're unsure, then don't risk starting it. Taking the dizzy off, get a drill and a long bit and a socket. Try and get one that fits the top of the oil pump gear, and then wind the oil pump and see if the light goes out, if it does then restart, if it doesn't, either re-prime the pump or get a new one.
It's an easy job, if you fancy risking it yourself. £40 for a pump IIRC from Rimmer Bros. 3 Bolts to undo, remove the pump housing, etc, put some vaseline in all the gears and put new housing on, and then do the drilling part to get pressure.
>> Edited by schueymcfee on Wednesday 10th August 09:32
Not quite sure of that.
Previous owner was advised at his last service that cam was wearing out and could do with replacing. The oil pump had also started to seize up.
Unfortunately, i only found all this out last summer when both failed. TVR dealer did say it was the cam that caused the pump to fail/seize up completely.
Does sound more plausable that it was the other way round.
Whatever way, it was expensive!
Previous owner was advised at his last service that cam was wearing out and could do with replacing. The oil pump had also started to seize up.
Unfortunately, i only found all this out last summer when both failed. TVR dealer did say it was the cam that caused the pump to fail/seize up completely.
Does sound more plausable that it was the other way round.
Whatever way, it was expensive!
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