Discussion
Apologies for another 'starting' thread, but they are never quite the same.
Just returned form a 50 mile run in my '98 450 Chim. Stopped outside the house. Opened the garage, fannied around for 10 minutes, went to bring the car in and it wouldn't start. Immobiliser is disengaging OK as the fuel pump primes. But, on position 3 of the ignition (start), absolutely nada, zilch, nuffink, square root of sod all! No starter, no click(ing), no lights dimming, therefore assuming no load being put on the system.
Tried rocking the car in gear, inertia is fine, I'm guessing the starter may be FUBAR, but would appreciate any other polite suggestions.
Thanks......
Just returned form a 50 mile run in my '98 450 Chim. Stopped outside the house. Opened the garage, fannied around for 10 minutes, went to bring the car in and it wouldn't start. Immobiliser is disengaging OK as the fuel pump primes. But, on position 3 of the ignition (start), absolutely nada, zilch, nuffink, square root of sod all! No starter, no click(ing), no lights dimming, therefore assuming no load being put on the system.
Tried rocking the car in gear, inertia is fine, I'm guessing the starter may be FUBAR, but would appreciate any other polite suggestions.
Thanks......
Could still be the immobiliser. There are 2 circuits inhibited, the ECU / fuel pump, and the starter solenoid supply. This has been the case twice for me on Chimaeras. On one, if I squeezed the immobiliser it would start!
Your explanation is perfect for the heat-soak issue, often encountered at fuel stations.
There's lots of threads on here about it and people some will call it 'hot-start' issue. It's actually the 'hot-won't start' issue. Did it start OK after about 20 mins cooling down? If so, I'd bank on the relay inside the immobiliser.
Your explanation is perfect for the heat-soak issue, often encountered at fuel stations.
There's lots of threads on here about it and people some will call it 'hot-start' issue. It's actually the 'hot-won't start' issue. Did it start OK after about 20 mins cooling down? If so, I'd bank on the relay inside the immobiliser.
Back to basics really, check all cables are securely attached at battery and starter.
Test lamp on the solenoid terminal whilst cranking will confirm if power is getting there.
The hot start kit should also have a fuse fitted, probably near the battery so worth checking.
Test lamp on the solenoid terminal whilst cranking will confirm if power is getting there.
The hot start kit should also have a fuse fitted, probably near the battery so worth checking.
Edited by Belle427 on Tuesday 14th February 21:28
Agree with Belle.
However, having had a similar problem with the immobiliser on my car, and then 'phoning Dave Fairclough(HF Solutions), I found the Meta module ('think' it was the one identified 99T) and put a jumper wire between the wires in the multiplug to the Meta module. The wires were identified as white/red trace. This energised the starter solenoid and allowed cranking.
Nick
However, having had a similar problem with the immobiliser on my car, and then 'phoning Dave Fairclough(HF Solutions), I found the Meta module ('think' it was the one identified 99T) and put a jumper wire between the wires in the multiplug to the Meta module. The wires were identified as white/red trace. This energised the starter solenoid and allowed cranking.
Nick
When I bought mine, I had the same problem. I stopped on my way home to drop the roof and I had exactly the same symptoms.
It turned out the 'hot start kit' had collected a considerable amount of verdigris and there was a broken wire from the fuse box to the fused supply.
I bet you could bump start it, which is what I had to do and then keep the engine running all the way home.
Check the bird's nest of cables on top of the battery. Great place for any fault, hot, damp and then on top of a battery potentially giving off small amounts of corrosive gas, next to scalding hot heater pipes, what could possibly go wrong?
It turned out the 'hot start kit' had collected a considerable amount of verdigris and there was a broken wire from the fuse box to the fused supply.
I bet you could bump start it, which is what I had to do and then keep the engine running all the way home.
Check the bird's nest of cables on top of the battery. Great place for any fault, hot, damp and then on top of a battery potentially giving off small amounts of corrosive gas, next to scalding hot heater pipes, what could possibly go wrong?
Also love the cheap and easy fixes, my three biggest issues (ignition system died, washer jets stopped squirting, water ingress/leaks) had individual fixing costs of around a £10-15 each time (new spades, a waterproof connector, a bit of super glue, solder, Sikaflex, silicone, heat sink paste, botls and washers).
The time spent to figure stuff out and then fix it is the issue, but I'm not paying anyone for my time directly, just have to deal with the wife who thinks I've got a mistress on the driveway!
The time spent to figure stuff out and then fix it is the issue, but I'm not paying anyone for my time directly, just have to deal with the wife who thinks I've got a mistress on the driveway!
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