Can't remove starter motor

[s p a c e m a n]

Two bolts, 8mm hex's, top and bottom. I've got a Milwaukee impact gun that I've used to unbolt the hubs on a discovery and it can't budge these two bolts.

Am I missing something or are they usually this much of a pig? Had to stop before I chewed the bottom one up, no idea how to do the top because I can't get my gun in there and there's not much room for leverage.

Currently soaking them in plus gas and sulking because I can't use the car.




Seeing as I was trying to take it off to test it I should really check to see if I'm being thick..

Battery has 11.5v
The battery has been moved to the boot and there is a large gauge cable run straight from it to the starter motor and then the original battery cable is from the starter motor to the fuse board.
Cable at starter motor shows 11.5v
Spade connection shows 11.5v when key is turned.
Earth strap shows good continuity.
Jumping a cable from the spade to the battery cable makes the starter spin so slowly you can hardly hear it.
Turning the key dims the ignition and interior lights but does nothing.

Starters dead isn't it?

Edited by s p a c e m a n on Sunday 19th February 16:07

[bobfather]

Mine were tough to start, I use leverage to break them loose. 1m break bar did the trick

[s p a c e m a n]

I don't think I can get the car much higher, I might manage half a meter. Knew I should've asked Santa for a lift

[Belle427]

11.5 volts is a discharged battery so I'd say that's your problem.

[Paulprior]

I agree with belle427, 11.5v is virtually flat, charge your battery and try again, should have about 12.6v without the engine running, I know it doesn’t sound much different, but it is

[kris450]

I know the difference isn't exactly massive, but worth noting they aren't metric bolts !!

As fas I remember they are 3/8 UNC so the appropriate imperial allen socket may help with the potential rounding issue.

[s p a c e m a n]

Well it's now on charge in the garage, started straight away when we push bumped it but it wouldn't turn the starter motor after the 3 minute run around to the back of the house.

Thanks for the bolt size info, I'll get some ordered

[sixor8]

I struggled to undo the Allen head bolts on my starter when I suspected it (it was the immobiliser, another story). They were damaged from previous removal.

I replaced them with standard hex bolts and I recommend doing the same. I couldn't understand why hex-headed cap heads were used in the first place.

[s p a c e m a n]

I had high hopes, I crossed my fingers as I turned the key... Still same symptoms.

Awaiting correct size hex set and still spraying with plus gas. Building flower boxes to grow sunflowers in instead of making V8 noises, life sucks

[Belle427]

That will be the charge voltage displayed won't it?
Have you disconnected it and tested across terminals again?

[Jordie Barretts sock]

I'm with Belle. What is across the battery with the engine running? And what is across the battery disconnected but fully charged? And then again an hour later?

[s p a c e m a n]

Can't test battery with the engine running, so no idea on that. Immediately after disconnecting the trickle charger the battery was showing 13.3v on my multimeter, two hours later it's 12.5v

Still same symptoms, turn key lights dim nothing happens. Grabbed an old battery off of the shelf that showed 12.3v on it, hooked it up still nothing.

Went for broke and stuck the battery live onto the spade for the starter and there was a slow grinding noise and the smell of magic smoke.

Can't play again until Saturday, hopefully tools will arrive by then.



Did drink beer and throw together some boxes to grow sunflowers in up the garage so all was not lost.

[Dr Mike Oxgreen]

s p a c e m a n said:

Immediately after disconnecting the trickle charger the battery was showing 13.3v on my multimeter, two hours later it's 12.5v

12.5V is reasonable, provided that’s where it stays after another 24 hours.

Your other battery showing 12.3V is a bit borderline. Okay, but not great. The difference of just 0.2V is quite a bit in terms of the charge state of the battery.

However, voltage is not a good measure of battery health. It may have the volts when it’s only got a very small load, but ask it to drive the starter motor and it might be unable to provide any significant amps and the voltage will collapse.

How old is the battery? I regard any battery over 5 years old as being on borrowed time, and many fail well before that.

Edited by Dr Mike Oxgreen on Monday 20th February 16:46

[Belle427]

My next suggestion would have been jump leads from a known good source but the smoke and noise seems to suggest it is the starter at fault.

[Magicmushroom666]

I've got a set of these from Halfords:
https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/sockets-...

Find they work well for anything that doesn't want to go easy. Can fit a nice big breaker bar etc on there.

[s p a c e m a n]

Bolt size was 5/16, fitted much better

I think one of them was covered in loctite, or they're not blind holes and they had both gathered a load of crud from the other end. Either way the proper sized bit and a couple days worth of plus gas got them out, thanks.

[Jordie Barretts sock]

That does look rather "well used". Hear from the exhaust doesn't help them either does it?

[Unweder]

They are UNC bolts the hex/allen part is Imperial too

[s p a c e m a n]

One day turnaround from Kwikstart in Barking. Took me longer to get it there than it did for him to refurb it, all genuine Bosch parts and a years warranty. Back on the road for the weekend, so if it does snow it's my fault

[Jordie Barretts sock]

That looks a lot better!