Need help on Heater control Unit.
Discussion
Hi all I have just spent the weekend changing my cracked Griff 500 dash for a new machined Ali one. Job went okay no real probs until I progressed on to changing my heater control unit dash for a new machined ali one.
I know that I have to undo 2No 10mm dia nuts and know where they are but I am unable to gain access to the nuts.
I have taken the electric window switch out but am still not able to get the spanner on.
Do I have to do it from under the car or is there an easyer way of doing it.
Any help would by musch app. on this as the car does not look correct with one ali dach and the other being still in wood.
Chears all
Mathew
I know that I have to undo 2No 10mm dia nuts and know where they are but I am unable to gain access to the nuts.
I have taken the electric window switch out but am still not able to get the spanner on.
Do I have to do it from under the car or is there an easyer way of doing it.
Any help would by musch app. on this as the car does not look correct with one ali dach and the other being still in wood.
Chears all
Mathew
Don't really think there is an easy way to get to the nuts! I changed my dash to a carbon one a while back, but was lucky enough to find the 2 nuts holding the heater control panel, were only finger tight! Even so, you need pretty flexible fingers to get inside the window switch holes!
When I refitted the new carbon panel I tightened the nuts up using a small socket set! If you still can't get to the nuts, you will probably have to loosen off the entire centre section, which means getting under the car!
By the way, be very carefull removing the panel. there is a PCB mounted to the back of it which can easily be damaged, and costs a rediculous amount to replace!
Good luck
Mark
When I refitted the new carbon panel I tightened the nuts up using a small socket set! If you still can't get to the nuts, you will probably have to loosen off the entire centre section, which means getting under the car!
By the way, be very carefull removing the panel. there is a PCB mounted to the back of it which can easily be damaged, and costs a rediculous amount to replace!
Good luck
Mark
HAVEN'T DONE THIS BUT,
THE CENTRE CONSOLE IS RELEASED BY UNDOING THE TWO BOLTS AT THE REAR OF THE CENTRE CONSOLE, ROUGHLY POSITIONED AT THE MIDDLE OF THE SEATS. WITH THESE UNDONE YOU CAN ACCESS MOST OF THE CENTRE SECTION (ALARM SENSITIVITY BOX - WHY I WENT IN).
TO REMOVE IT YOU THEN NEED TO RELEASE THE HANDBRAKE, OR LOOSEN IT SUBSTANCIALLY SO THAT IT CAN BE PULLED UP NEAR VERTICAL.
THE CENTRE CONSOLE IS THEN FREE TO BE LIFTED UP TO ABOUT 60 DEGREES...POSIBLY EVEN CLEAR, ALLOWING ACCESS TO THE HEATER PANEL. IF YOU DO DO THIS, THERE ARE TWO EARTHING BOLTS FOR THE CABIN ELECTRICS AND IT IS A GOOD IDEA TO MAKE THESE SECURE, POSSIBLY WITH NYLOCK TYPE BOLTS.
AS THE MAN SAID...GOOD LUCK!
THE CENTRE CONSOLE IS RELEASED BY UNDOING THE TWO BOLTS AT THE REAR OF THE CENTRE CONSOLE, ROUGHLY POSITIONED AT THE MIDDLE OF THE SEATS. WITH THESE UNDONE YOU CAN ACCESS MOST OF THE CENTRE SECTION (ALARM SENSITIVITY BOX - WHY I WENT IN).
TO REMOVE IT YOU THEN NEED TO RELEASE THE HANDBRAKE, OR LOOSEN IT SUBSTANCIALLY SO THAT IT CAN BE PULLED UP NEAR VERTICAL.
THE CENTRE CONSOLE IS THEN FREE TO BE LIFTED UP TO ABOUT 60 DEGREES...POSIBLY EVEN CLEAR, ALLOWING ACCESS TO THE HEATER PANEL. IF YOU DO DO THIS, THERE ARE TWO EARTHING BOLTS FOR THE CABIN ELECTRICS AND IT IS A GOOD IDEA TO MAKE THESE SECURE, POSSIBLY WITH NYLOCK TYPE BOLTS.
AS THE MAN SAID...GOOD LUCK!
You can lift the centre console without too much difficulty. The hard bit is slackening off the handbrake so the lever will stand upright. Then undo two bolts one behind each seat which anchor the console. Then a bit of strategic lifting from the back end will get the whole centre console out. You'd be able to get at the controls then.
As far as I can see you can't do this from underneath because the gearbox is in the way. Chapter 12 and in particular P151 of Steve's Griff book gives you the details.
AF
As far as I can see you can't do this from underneath because the gearbox is in the way. Chapter 12 and in particular P151 of Steve's Griff book gives you the details.
AF
The other bit that worries me about what you're asking is that once you get the panel out you'll find a very badly mounted circuit board attached to the back, this is held in place purely by the pots that adjust everything and by the fact that the LED's are bonded into the panel, unless you are atleast half competant with a soldering iron and have sourced replacement LED's (odd sizes, some flat topped, and triangular, plus bi colour) I wouldn't class this as a DIY job. Unless of course your replacement panel is simply stuck onto the existing one??? Just out of interest what sort have you got and how much ??
Glad it's not me!
If and when you succeed in getting the panel off, what about changing the mounting method? Could you, for example, fit plastic jobbies that could 'snap in' to holes so that in future you can just prise the panel off from the outside? Or waht abut those little double-sided sticky pads that stick like hell but can be sliced through with a narrow blade?
If and when you succeed in getting the panel off, what about changing the mounting method? Could you, for example, fit plastic jobbies that could 'snap in' to holes so that in future you can just prise the panel off from the outside? Or waht abut those little double-sided sticky pads that stick like hell but can be sliced through with a narrow blade?
Thanks for all of that.
I managed to get a look at the nuts today and they are the locknut type which means I will have to take the centre section out.
I have already started but now have to slacken off the handbrake, will read the bible when i go to bed to see how this is done. Cannot be that hard.
Any other pitfalls would be well recieved.
I must say though that these cars are very easy to work on, unlike the robot built cars now.
I get quite a lot of presure doing this sort of thing as it helps me understand the workings of the car a lot better, which sould help me if anything goes wrong.
Any way thanks again for all the help.
Mathew
I managed to get a look at the nuts today and they are the locknut type which means I will have to take the centre section out.
I have already started but now have to slacken off the handbrake, will read the bible when i go to bed to see how this is done. Cannot be that hard.
Any other pitfalls would be well recieved.
I must say though that these cars are very easy to work on, unlike the robot built cars now.
I get quite a lot of presure doing this sort of thing as it helps me understand the workings of the car a lot better, which sould help me if anything goes wrong.
Any way thanks again for all the help.
Mathew
Matthew,
See my profileor Website for how i changed mine.
I released my Handbrake buy quite easily lifting the cable out of a retaining clip near the centre of the chassis,This released it enough to get the handbrake upright to get the centre console off, but this was only done to replace a broken bolt in the Handbrake(see profile of my Griffith).
I was able to reach these to nuts under the Heater panel just by undoing the screws behind seat and lifting the console enough to get a small socket and extension through.
All the Best
BB
See my profileor Website for how i changed mine.
I released my Handbrake buy quite easily lifting the cable out of a retaining clip near the centre of the chassis,This released it enough to get the handbrake upright to get the centre console off, but this was only done to replace a broken bolt in the Handbrake(see profile of my Griffith).
I was able to reach these to nuts under the Heater panel just by undoing the screws behind seat and lifting the console enough to get a small socket and extension through.
All the Best
BB
Hi all again
I have now managed to get the heater control dash off.
Had a bit of trouble finding the handbrake adjuster though but now know it is above the diff (two large plastic nuts the size of a 10p diam that is).
Once i got the dash off i then realised that the LED are glued into the holes in the dash. I have been thinking of many ways to get them out but think a glue release agent will do the job. By looking al the glue in detail I would say they have used spuerglue, for which I know there is a release agent for.
Has anyone else got any ideas of how to get them out?
One of you asked where I got the dash from well I got it from TVR spares they advertise on this site under cars for sale.
Not a bad job really considering it only cost £210 for the both dash's it also included VAT and delivery.
Anyway will look foward to hearing from you soon hopefully.
Mathew
I have now managed to get the heater control dash off.
Had a bit of trouble finding the handbrake adjuster though but now know it is above the diff (two large plastic nuts the size of a 10p diam that is).
Once i got the dash off i then realised that the LED are glued into the holes in the dash. I have been thinking of many ways to get them out but think a glue release agent will do the job. By looking al the glue in detail I would say they have used spuerglue, for which I know there is a release agent for.
Has anyone else got any ideas of how to get them out?
One of you asked where I got the dash from well I got it from TVR spares they advertise on this site under cars for sale.
Not a bad job really considering it only cost £210 for the both dash's it also included VAT and delivery.
Anyway will look foward to hearing from you soon hopefully.
Mathew
Cheers Matthew,
I host my pictures in my webspace now, but also use www.fotango.com Register with them,then upload your photos in your album on there site.
Then u have to click on your picture in the Album
Then u should see some worded options to the left of your photo.
One will be 'get a link to this photo' ,click on this and then you will this an address above the photo.
Right click and copy this address then paste ion here between [pic] and [/pic] with no gaps.
Cant wait to see them pics.
If you have trouble e-mail me the photos and i will host them 4 you and send you the url(address)
BB
I host my pictures in my webspace now, but also use www.fotango.com Register with them,then upload your photos in your album on there site.
Then u have to click on your picture in the Album
Then u should see some worded options to the left of your photo.
One will be 'get a link to this photo' ,click on this and then you will this an address above the photo.
Right click and copy this address then paste ion here between [pic] and [/pic] with no gaps.
Cant wait to see them pics.
If you have trouble e-mail me the photos and i will host them 4 you and send you the url(address)
BB
Mathew, like I said earlier there is a strong probability that you will bugger up the LEDS trying to remove them or at the very least create a "dry joint" on the very poorly soldered boards. My advise is to de solder them and replace with new ones. Try RS components, farnell and Sun LEDS for the triangular ones. (can't be arsed to get the url's but a search should do the trick) oh yes and remember leds are polarity sensitive.
Thanks for all the help.
I have now decided to mount the new dash ontop of the old one.
I have removed all the wood from the old dash and mounted the new ali dash on top of the steel back plate.
Looks ok for now but I more than likely will send it off to an expert to get it done properly over the winter peiod when the car will not go out as much.
Going to the motor show in it on saturday so hope all is working for then. Am looking foward to seeing the new TVR range more than anything.
Must go
Mathew
I have now decided to mount the new dash ontop of the old one.
I have removed all the wood from the old dash and mounted the new ali dash on top of the steel back plate.
Looks ok for now but I more than likely will send it off to an expert to get it done properly over the winter peiod when the car will not go out as much.
Going to the motor show in it on saturday so hope all is working for then. Am looking foward to seeing the new TVR range more than anything.
Must go
Mathew
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