I hate electrics! wiring diagram please?
I hate electrics! wiring diagram please?
Author
Discussion

allyrs

Original Poster:

38 posts

252 months

Tuesday 13th September 2005
quotequote all
Hello. i have just recently become a member and am looking for a little direction. you see ive just sold my pride and joy evo jap toy for a true british sports car (chimaera). i have had it 2 weeks and in those 14 days it has flatted the battery every time on starting, overheated 5 times, connected its indicators on constant twice, failed to illuminate the dash, drivers door lock failed completley and broken down never to start again. which is were i lay my scene. it just so happens i broke down outside the tvr garage in my town but i dont want to pay thier prices! so i have come to the conclusion this car is going to be somewhat more troublesome than the reliability of my last jap machine.
The problem- my fuel pump is not fueling, there is an electrical fault somewhere? the pump is fine the electrics are not. i need a wiring diagram. can anyone help? im ok with mechanics but i dont understand wires and electricity! lol.
any ideas would be appreciated.

parrot of doom

23,075 posts

263 months

Tuesday 13th September 2005
quotequote all
Do a search in here for:

ECU
Fuel pump relay
New battery

Is any water getting into the battery compartment?

k4trv

1,819 posts

281 months

Tuesday 13th September 2005
quotequote all
I would also add:

Check your alarm or key fob. Your fuel pump is immoblised when alarm is on - That too isn't always obvious if your Siren is kaput/removed!!

You don't say what year - On early Chimaeras the imobiliser/alarm is triggered by how you lock/unlock the doors!!

Get the Bible.

Trev Mac

allyrs

Original Poster:

38 posts

252 months

Tuesday 13th September 2005
quotequote all
Thank ill try that. and there may be a possibility of water in at the battery but i cant be sure as ive only had it 2 weeks.
cheers for the help

parrot of doom

23,075 posts

263 months

Tuesday 13th September 2005
quotequote all
Behind the nearside front wheel the battery box sticks out near the tyre. Check and make sure the tyre hasn't rubbed through the grp and is letting water in.

matttav

178 posts

296 months

Tuesday 13th September 2005
quotequote all
It sounds daft, but I went brought a bumper pack of fuses and changed every single one to the new (and correct Amps)which solved loads of small electrical problems - cost £8 with millions of spare fuses still.

May be worth doing while you are playing with the wiring.

Regarding the fuel pump.. I agree start with the fuel pump relays and chest the roll over cut out swith hasnt fallen and turned upside down...

allyrs

Original Poster:

38 posts

252 months

Tuesday 13th September 2005
quotequote all
im not to sure about the alarm- or if my car even has one? though the drivers door will not open- unless using the twister knob in center con. i found a strange immobiliser in the lower drivers side door frame. and tried to connect the wires. the whole car car seems an unorganised mess of changing colour wires. they just hang down from things.
where do i get this bible?
thanks

allyrs

Original Poster:

38 posts

252 months

Tuesday 13th September 2005
quotequote all
BTW my car is the Lreg 94 chim

k4trv

1,819 posts

281 months

Tuesday 13th September 2005
quotequote all
Your car will have an alarm and an immobliser - probably set by using the key to open the door locks.
The "box" controlling the Alarm etc is under the dash top.
You probably need to "explore" the Forums at the top of the page for a lot of what your asking - but the Bible does cover it.

The bible is: www.tvrbooks.co.uk/

You should also have a black handbook with the car and this will explain your locks/alarms etc.

Trev McM

parrot of doom

23,075 posts

263 months

Tuesday 13th September 2005
quotequote all
As for the overheating - what exactly have you experienced?

allyrs

Original Poster:

38 posts

252 months

Tuesday 13th September 2005
quotequote all
the overheating has been realised- hole in radiator. its getting recored in copper and brass next week.

parrot of doom

23,075 posts

263 months

Tuesday 13th September 2005
quotequote all
Hmmm, I hope you didn't pay much for this car

allyrs

Original Poster:

38 posts

252 months

Tuesday 13th September 2005
quotequote all
i spent what it was worth, with the intent to restore it to former glory. it was a little tatty but by next summer it will be transformed. its just these electrics!!! once i have them sorted there will be no more problems- i wont even need the AA! lol

allyrs

Original Poster:

38 posts

252 months

Tuesday 13th September 2005
quotequote all
this rollover cut out switch that matt is talkin about? where would one find this? what does it look like......im waiting for the bible to arrive. also does anyone else have a plug immobiliser in the rear drivers side door frame- i have no fobb with a blipper but i do have a few bits of clifford systems lying about. there is a female connector by the steering wheel/ stalks/ ignition. though i have been able to make the red light go out on the dash when i connect the 2 hidden wires in door frame? some times the indicators flash on and off twice and the red dash light goes out and other times one side of the indicators stays on all the time. is this the factory immobiliser? I have also fixed the door lock as i think the car locked itsself (though only the drivers door) for security. Does any one know if the fuel pup is the only thing immobilised? or is ignition immobilised? cheers

Mr Jenks

1,207 posts

294 months

Tuesday 13th September 2005
quotequote all
The cut out is fitted just under the edge of the dash in front of the map pocket. It has a push button to reset it.
It sounds as if the car still has the original alarm/immobiliser fitted which was activated using the key in the lock rather than a plip remote control.
The immobiliser cuts out both fuel pump and ignition systems, as well for some reason the fuel guage. If the battery goes flat then the immobiliser will arm itself, as it may do in case of the doors locking themselves. The two wires you have in the rear of the door panel MAY be from the microswitch on the lock used to activate the system.
Best bet is scrap the original and fit new remote alarm which will also control locking.
Dont hold your breath waiting for the bible, yes its a good book but the wiring diagrams in it are

allyrs

Original Poster:

38 posts

252 months

Tuesday 13th September 2005
quotequote all
thats a big help- many thanks

matttav

178 posts

296 months

Tuesday 13th September 2005
quotequote all
I had a similar problem..

Everything worked, alarms etc and changed the relays and did all the normal things as advised here. But the fuel pump would not work.

To this day am still hunting down the problem (with wiring by pass to get round the prob)

allyrs

Original Poster:

38 posts

252 months

Tuesday 13th September 2005
quotequote all
is there no danger of continual fueling? with it being fuel injected is it safe to run that bypass?

Mr Jenks

1,207 posts

294 months

Tuesday 13th September 2005
quotequote all
Welllllllllllll no not really but it`s ok as a temp solution to help fault finding. It cannot inject fuel into the engine but the risk is continuing to pump fuel in the event of an accident when a stalled engine would cutout the pump.

matttav

178 posts

296 months

Tuesday 13th September 2005
quotequote all
Passed the MOT........... and is a loop system... just not ideal...

Plan for the weekend is to test where in the loom I can cut a new line into to resolve.

Even an alarm and car electrician could not find the fault!