Locking the doors
Locking the doors
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Discussion

daf4trucks

Original Poster:

37 posts

252 months

Wednesday 21st September 2005
quotequote all
Thanks to all who gave tips on my coolant loss problem.Is this next issue a commom one?It says in the handbook,for locking the doors exit and hold the button on the radio key for a couple of seconds.Hazards flashing 4 times indicates the doors are locked and ommobilizer engaged.When I do this I get 1/2/ or sometimes 3 flashes but not 4.On each occasion only the driver door locks not the passenger.Before the tool box emerges has anyone had situation this before?

fredf

267 posts

262 months

Wednesday 21st September 2005
quotequote all
I'm assuming you've got a Meta system installed, if so it's one long flash when unlocking, two when locking. to disable the internal sensors when locking, keep hold of the button and the lights will flash (briefly) once more (3 flashes).

I don't think there is a way to only lock one door, so it seems you will need to get some tools out.

Talk to Carl at Car&Bike [url]www.tvruk.tv[/url] he's the TVR alarm expert

Ribol

11,993 posts

287 months

Wednesday 21st September 2005
quotequote all
daf4trucks said:
On each occasion only the driver door locks not the passenger.Before the tool box emerges has anyone had situation this before?

It is not possible to lock only one door so something is wrong.

You say it is not locking so you will not know if it is unlocking either then? Remember that when you open the door from the inside this is done mechanically rather than electrically.
Possible n/s door motor electrical/mechanical problems.

daf4trucks

Original Poster:

37 posts

252 months

Thursday 22nd September 2005
quotequote all
Ribol said:

daf4trucks said:
On each occasion only the driver door locks not the passenger.Before the tool box emerges has anyone had situation this before?


It is not possible to lock only one door so something is wrong.

You say it is not locking so you will not know if it is unlocking either then? Remember that when you open the door from the inside this is done mechanically rather than electrically.
Possible n/s door motor electrical/mechanical problems.

I think it must be the mechanism,upon locking you can hear the drivers side locks slamming shut but not on the passenger side.When you attempt to open drivers door it remains locked,but go to the passesger side and press the button and the door opens.

Ribol

11,993 posts

287 months

Thursday 22nd September 2005
quotequote all
daf4trucks said:
I think it must be the mechanism,upon locking you can hear the drivers side locks slamming shut but not on the passenger side.When you attempt to open drivers door it remains locked,but go to the passesger side and press the button and the door opens.

Don't forget there are two motors per door, one locks and unlocks, one pops the door open. It sounds like the lock/unlock motor has died or has an electrical fault.

k4trv

1,819 posts

281 months

Thursday 22nd September 2005
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Ribol said:

daf4trucks said:
I think it must be the mechanism,upon locking you can hear the drivers side locks slamming shut but not on the passenger side.When you attempt to open drivers door it remains locked,but go to the passesger side and press the button and the door opens.


Don't forget there are two motors per door, one locks and unlocks, one pops the door open. It sounds like the lock/unlock motor has died or has an electrical fault.


Ensure you have a working door pin switch. The solenoid/actuator is behind the velcro'd carpet next to door (there is only one solenoid/actuator per door - they lock and unlock the release mechanism - and there isn't a motor which pops the door open either !!) and it relies upon door pin switch determining whether the door is open or shut.

If the door pin is not working properly you'll have a problem - just like you have at the moment.

Also, the solenoid/actuator can be caput, see following link. www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=99815&f=8&h=0&hw=door+actuator

Not rocket science.

Cheers

Trev McM

Ribol

11,993 posts

287 months

Thursday 22nd September 2005
quotequote all
k4trv said:
Not rocket science.

Trev McM


Assuming the car has the button under the mirror(1999 - see his other post) there are two motors each side as I have posted above.
If either door pin/switch call it what you want was the problem the driver's door would not be locking either.

philf329

243 posts

267 months

Friday 23rd September 2005
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Hi,

Agree with whats been said already - I had a similar problem although mine was not unlocking on one side. I traced it to the solenoid - its easy to replace & very cheap from tvrcarparts.com. I replaced the solenoid but also found the lock mechanism itself was worn which had caused the solenoid to fail - so I repaired this - its spring loaded & was a bit tricky but still manageable to repair.

Phil

>> Edited by philf329 on Friday 23 September 01:24

Ribol

11,993 posts

287 months

Friday 23rd September 2005
quotequote all
If it turns out to be the motor you can get them from Maplins dirt cheap(£8/£10), 2-wire (YD79L) and 5-wire (YD78K). These two types cover the 5 used on the car.

FunkyGibbon

3,858 posts

293 months

Friday 23rd September 2005
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I had this problem, and it was the pin switch sticking in, bit of WD40 and problem sorted.

FG

FunkyGibbon

3,858 posts

293 months

Friday 23rd September 2005
quotequote all
Ribol said:


If either door pin/switch call it what you want was the problem the driver's door would not be locking either.


Not true on my car (1999 button under wing mirror), the passanger switch was sticking in yet the driver's door would lock OK, passenger door not.

FG

Ribol

11,993 posts

287 months

Friday 23rd September 2005
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FunkyGibbon said:
the passanger switch was sticking in yet the driver's door would lock OK

It would do, the switch sticking in(open circuit) is the same as having the door shut.