Alternator help please

[full_chat]

The car started cutting out at higher revs yesterday, stopped to check it out and it wouldn't restart. Bump started it (naughty I know), it seemed to go ok for a few mins then as I merrily headed up the M1 the dashboard lights started dimming and the battery warning light came on (also got a very slight burning smell).

Is this the symptons of a fried alternator? (Battery is 1 year old so I doubt it's that)

If so what is my best option for replacement - DIY job to swap? Get mine reconditioned (if so where), or buy a new one?

Thanks all!

(And what the hell possessed an old guy in a Jag X Type to stop on the hard shoulder to tell me to 'get a proper car'?? People never fail to surprise me!)

[dern]

Measure the voltage across the battery with the engine not running and with the engine running. You should get 12 something volts first and then 13 something volts with the engine running. If you don't get a higher reading with the engine running then your alternator is probably dead.

Can't help you with how difficult it is to change it but it's normally straight forward. Have a look under the bonnet and have a look would be my advice.

Mark

[Hughesie2]

full_chat said:

(And what the hell possessed an old guy in a Jag X Type to stop on the hard shoulder to tell me to 'get a proper car'?? People never fail to surprise me!)

Jealousy...

[tonys]

Just a thought, and may not be connected, but there are a number of entries on forum about the 100 amp fuse, normally fitted on drivers side, on chassis approx. under driver's seat (in a black plastic holder), near starter motor (on feed to starter motor).
Certainly worth a look / replacement before consigning alternator to the bin.
They often seem to look ok. until they are actually undone.
If checking, don't forget to disconnect battery first!!

[parrot of doom]

A glorified Mondeo driver berating a TVR driver?

Don't worry about it, hes one of the minority of people in this country who can be classifed as a 'retarded spastic mongoloid'.

[philf329]

Hi, my alternator went a few weeks ago which also blew the 100 amp fuse, so check both.

Its an easy DIY job to change the alternator - around 1 hour. The fuse is on the inside of the o/s/f chassis roughly level with the back of the front wheel. Its a bit fiddly if the car is on the ground - probably easy if you raise the car - guess what I did. You should disconnect the battery for both jobs which will disable door releases - so leave a window open if you shut the doors.

If you check voltage across the battery it should be 14-14.5 volts if alternator / 100 amp fuse is ok, probably 11.5 - 12 if not. To check fuse do a resistance / continuity test across the fuse terminals or you might see its blown using a torch & small mirror.

My alternator had 100 amp output & was from a range rover - sourced one for £110 new. The fuses are 56p + vat - TMS / TVR Gear had them in stock.

[full_chat]

Had a quick look this evening but limited as the car is stuck over the road so not ideal for crawling underneath let alone getting the battery charger out.

The 100amp fuse looks melted, how do I remove this, does it just pull out or are there bolts to undo?

I've checked SH's book for removing the alternator and tensioning the fan belt, sounds easy enough on paper so I'll have a go tomorrow!

Cheers all

[philf329]

Loosen the nuts on the terminal posts to release the 100 amp fuse which should slide out to one side or fall out - you dont need to take the fuse holder off or remove the cables.